Some of our "enhancements"

  1. fez111
    fez111
    1. Having to always remove sacrificial anode debris from the hot water tank, and that I fried my furnace ignition board from draining said tank directly over the top of it, a little research uncovered an electronic anode that leaves no debris and costs about a penny a day to run. A close nipple threads into the tank to a tee mounted end-wise. The anode unit screws into the other end of the tee. The middle of the tee uses another close nipple into a valve. the valve goes into a street elbow which terminates at a one inch hose barb. A large hose (Farm and Family) is used to connect to the hose barb for draining the hot water tank with the valve. A small shielded wire connects to the anode. This wire was passed through a drilled hole out of the hot water unit and into the water management area where it is plugged in. A small insulator glued to the hot water tank cover keeps the anode connector from shorting to the cover. No more annual water tank cleaning and maintenance.
  2. fez111
    fez111
    2. We can't claim credit for this one. My brother read it somewhere. Because I had the same problem as most of you in that when I took my sewer cap off I got enough seeped raw sewage to completely scuzz the ground and often my shoes, I cut off the very end of the sewer pipe and installed a 3-inch gate valve that had the tabs for the sewer cap. General RV had the valve in a storeroom upstairs, but they had it! ABS glue can be bought, you guessed it, at Lowes. You have to be quick because it starts drying as soon as it hits air! Now when I take the cap off it is completely dry. There is an added benefit only if you have a single sewer outlet...if the final valve is closed, you can open BOTH gray valves. This will allow both gray tanks to equalize, thereby they will both fill equally. I'll bet your kitchen tank fills way before the bathroom, unless you take more showers than you wash dishes. This saves us at least two trips with the blue tank on a to week vacation.
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