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  1. #11
    Seasoned Camper
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
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    Katy, TX
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    We got tired of no cool. Bit the bullet and had a 15000 btu Coleman quite cool put on. Best thing we have done for the trailer. We also went with white cover and swapped out black cover on front unit for white. Anything to help cool rig in Texas heat
    Ron
    2016 Reflection 317RST
    2012 Ram 3500, SRW, CC, LB 4x4 6.7 Cummins
    Katy, Texas

  2. #12
    Big Traveler
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
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    NorCal
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    I find that if we just run the main AC, it really doesn't get below the mid-80's if the outside temps are in the mid 90's.

    When I engage the bedroom AC in addition to the main AC, then it cools the trailer down rapidly down into the low 70's.

    The main unit is 15k btu and is run on hi, while the bedroom unit is 13k btu and can only be run on lo. I'm surprised how big of a difference the addition of the bedroom ac makes.
    2017 Ford F450 - our kids call her "Big Red"
    2018 Grand Design Reflection 28bh

  3. #13
    Seasoned Camper
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Maryland
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheLexx View Post
    I find that if we just run the main AC, it really doesn't get below the mid-80's if the outside temps are in the mid 90's.

    When I engage the bedroom AC in addition to the main AC, then it cools the trailer down rapidly down into the low 70's.

    The main unit is 15k btu and is run on hi, while the bedroom unit is 13k btu and can only be run on lo. I'm surprised how big of a difference the addition of the bedroom ac makes.
    Thanks for the info. We only have the one A/C unit and it worked fine for two years and a little this year. We don't use the Air a lot so didn't really notice a change until later this year. Our unit does not get cold at all.. The fan runs great. Might be a compressor or a capacitor. Probably made in China !
    2016 Reflection 303 rls
    Titan Disc Brakes
    Hensley hitch
    2002 GMC Duramax 3:73 rear, 2 wheel drive

  4. #14
    Rolling Along
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    Aug 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by GD0wner View Post
    Lots of threads out there about sealing your ducts. Sounds like a lot of people need to check theirs to make sure the cold air isn't going into their ceiling instead of their ductwork.
    I believe that many of the GD AC issues can be fixed by better sealing the AC ducts where the AC unit is mounted. It's pretty simple and aluminum foil tape works very well. If someone can point to one of the threads, possibly with pictures, that would help. If I can locate the information, I'd like to add a page to my website with the information for easy reference.

    Another issue I've found is that the living room T-Stat in our 297RSTS is terrible. Being mounted on the hutch wall above the furnace location, the wall gets heat-soaked from the furnace running and shuts the heat down long before the room has warmed up. During AC operation, the T-Stat is so protected from air circulation that the T-Stat is very non-responsive and the temperatures run cold and then warm with too much lag in sensing room temperature. I've come up with a pretty clever modification using a Honeywell analog T-Stat mounted on the side of the island. I'm in the process of getting a web page together with the details.

    @TucsonJim, can you assist?

  5. #15
    Big Traveler
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    Dec 2016
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    I basically use 2 airs in Florida in my momentum and it easily stays 74. We have the third air which we can use but it isn't necessary.

    I'd advise checking your baffles and don't be afraid to open up the dump vent if you have one as the ducts in most RVs are very inefficient.
    2019 Momentum 395
    2018 Ram 3500 DRW 4.10 AISIN

  6. #16
    King Pin
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by klenger View Post
    I believe that many of the GD AC issues can be fixed by better sealing the AC ducts where the AC unit is mounted. It's pretty simple and aluminum foil tape works very well. If someone can point to one of the threads, possibly with pictures, that would help. If I can locate the information, I'd like to add a page to my website with the information for easy reference.

    Another issue I've found is that the living room T-Stat in our 297RSTS is terrible. Being mounted on the hutch wall above the furnace location, the wall gets heat-soaked from the furnace running and shuts the heat down long before the room has warmed up. During AC operation, the T-Stat is so protected from air circulation that the T-Stat is very non-responsive and the temperatures run cold and then warm with too much lag in sensing room temperature. I've come up with a pretty clever modification using a Honeywell analog T-Stat mounted on the side of the island. I'm in the process of getting a web page together with the details.

    @TucsonJim, can you assist?
    Sure enough. Here is the link to the post I made in regards to the problem with cold air leaking back into the intake side of the AC. If you have this problem, the repair can make a huge difference in the cooling efficiency of your AC system. I can't find my original post. But to solve the problem, remove the plenum, and look for any gaps. Seal with duct tape if you find any. Here are some pictures:





    Ken - I'd sure like to see your mod with the Honeywell thermostat and how you run and connect the wiring.

    Jim

  7. #17
    Big Traveler boyscout's Avatar
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    Nov 2017
    Location
    Toronto, Canada
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    I've seen a couple of people here saying that the AC is more effective when set to LO than to HI. They speculate that HI moves too much air too quickly for the device to get cold enough and the air to cool enough.

    I'm just the messenger and don't remember who deserves credit (or blame!) for this idea but it's simple enough to try.
    Mark - 2018 Solitude 310GK - 2017 F-350 diesel SRW short box - Pullrite Superglide hitch

  8. #18
    Big Traveler
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by klenger View Post
    I believe that many of the GD AC issues can be fixed by better sealing the AC ducts where the AC unit is mounted. It's pretty simple and aluminum foil tape works very well. If someone can point to one of the threads, possibly with pictures, that would help. If I can locate the information, I'd like to add a page to my website with the information for easy reference.

    Another issue I've found is that the living room T-Stat in our 297RSTS is terrible. Being mounted on the hutch wall above the furnace location, the wall gets heat-soaked from the furnace running and shuts the heat down long before the room has warmed up. During AC operation, the T-Stat is so protected from air circulation that the T-Stat is very non-responsive and the temperatures run cold and then warm with too much lag in sensing room temperature. I've come up with a pretty clever modification using a Honeywell analog T-Stat mounted on the side of the island. I'm in the process of getting a web page together with the details.

    @TucsonJim, can you assist?
    I've had the same issues with the thermostat on the hutch. Love to see your mod.

  9. #19
    Seasoned Camper st2rv's Avatar
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    Oct 2016
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    St Johns, Florida
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    Just going to comment on that GDOwner. Lots of time spent resealing the duct work vents to duck work connections and sealing the return-supply compartments in the AC unit themselves. A/C working much much better. but still not a fan of the T stats...
    Tom
    Tom and Sandi
    2017 337RLS

  10. #20
    Rolling Along
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    Aug 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by st2rv View Post
    Just going to comment on that GDOwner. Lots of time spent resealing the duct work vents to duck work connections and sealing the return-supply compartments in the AC unit themselves. A/C working much much better. but still not a fan of the T stats...
    Tom
    Check out my reply #22 on post https://www.mygrandrv.com/fo...738#post187738

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