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  1. #51
    Site Team xrated's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mdwilliams44 View Post
    Dude, That was REALLY unfair! You made me spit my morning coffee!

    Thank god it didn't get on the keyboard.

    I shall remember that saying for life now....
    My work here is now done!

    When I worked in a Steel Mill as an Electrician, I actually wore my hard hat with an Orange/Black safety sticker on it. The left side had the AC = Always confused....and the right side had the DC = D@mned Confused. It was good for a few laughs for sure.
    Last edited by xrated; 04-18-2021 at 07:42 AM.
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  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by xrated View Post
    I'm not sure where you got your "6000" watts from a 30A supply, but is not correct. 120V time 30A is 3600 Watts of power.
    You are correct, my bad.
    John & Nadine Bagby
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  3. #53
    Site Sponsor Jerryr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xrated View Post
    My work here is now done!

    When I worked in a Steel Mill as an Electrician, I actually wore my hard hat with an Orange/Black safety sticker on it. The left side had the AC = Always confused....and the right side had the DC = D@mned Confused. It was good for a few laughs for sure.
    @xrated.

    Thank you for your contribution to this forum regarding electrons. You always answer questions regarding electrical clearly and accurately.

    Jerry
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  4. #54
    Site Sponsor Skiddy's Avatar
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    All the fun aside, the question of why there is nothing between a 30 amp service and a split phase 50 amp service is a good one. You either have a 30 amp or two 50s, total of 100 amp. The cable for a split phase 50 is pretty big, kinda like wrestling with a boa constrictor or anaconda.

    I have seen a park where they posted 50 amp service is not split phase, a 240V dryer will not work. The neutral in the pedestal may be OK as it is likely separate circuits, the neutral in the cable may be undersized a tad.
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  5. #55
    Site Team xrated's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skiddy View Post
    All the fun aside, the question of why there is nothing between a 30 amp service and a split phase 50 amp service is a good one. You either have a 30 amp or two 50s, total of 100 amp. The cable for a split phase 50 is pretty big, kinda like wrestling with a boa constrictor or anaconda.

    I have seen a park where they posted 50 amp service is not split phase, a 240V dryer will not work. The neutral in the pedestal may be OK as it is likely separate circuits, the neutral in the cable may be undersized a tad.
    Can you explain what you are trying to say.....or do you have a question? I'm lost on what you posted!
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  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roll With The Changes View Post
    The 30 amp RV plug is 120 volts. That's 3600 watts. The 50 amp is at 240 volts. That's where the huge increase comes from.
    The 50 Amp is not 240 V. Never plug your RV in to 240 V. It's all 120 V.

  7. #57
    Site Sponsor Jerryr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dsasay View Post
    The 50 Amp is not 240 V. Never plug your RV in to 240 V. It's all 120 V.

    OK, PLEASE READ XRATED’S POST #10 IN THIS THREAD FOR A VERY CLEAR EXPLANATION ABOUT 50A RV SUPPLY VOLTAGE.

    An RV 50 amp plug is connected to a NEMA 14-50R receptacle. The same receptacle that I plug my 50 amp 240v electric car into. In fact it’s the exact same receptacle that my house 240v electric stove is plugged into. That plug supplies 240 volts to my Electric car charger and to my house electric stove heating elements between L1 and L2.

    An RV separates L1 and L2 in the RV power distribution box into 2 separate 120 v legs, each capable of 50 amps each. If you measure between L1 and L2 at the receptacle you WILL measure 240 volts. If you measure between L1 and neutral or between L2 and neutral you will measure 120 v each.

    Now a 30 amp RV TT-30R receptacle IS ONLY 120v with a single hot leg, a neutral and a ground. Occasionally an uninformed installer will unwittingly wire that as a 240v with 2 hot legs instead of 120v with a single hot leg.


    Here’s a diagram of a 14-50R. Notice that there is 240v between the X and Y terminal.

    Last edited by Jerryr; 04-19-2021 at 12:27 PM. Reason: Corrected NEMA typo
    Jerry & Linda
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  8. #58
    Site Team xrated's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerryr View Post
    OK, PLEASE READ XRATED’S POST #10 IN THIS THREAD FOR A VERY CLEAR EXPLANATION ABOUT 50A RV SUPPLY VOLTAGE.

    An RV 50 amp plug is connected to a NENA 14-50R receptacle. The same receptacle that I plug my 50 amp 240v electric car into. In fact it’s the exact same receptacle that my house 240v electric stove is plugged into. That plug supplies 240 volts to my Electric car charger and to my house electric stove heating elements between L1 and L2.

    An RV separates L1 and L2 in the RV power distribution box into 2 separate 120 v legs, each capable of 50 amps each. If you measure between L1 and L2 at the receptacle you WILL measure 240 volts. If you measure between L1 and neutral or between L2 and neutral you will measure 120 v each.

    Now a 30 amp RV TT-30R receptacle IS ONLY 120v with a single hot leg, a neutral and a ground. Occasionally an uninformed installer will unwittingly wire that as a 240v with 2 hot legs instead of 120v with a single hot leg.


    Here’s a diagram of a 14-50R. Notice that there is 240v between the X and Y terminal.

    Exactly correct Jerry. Sometimes it's a hard concept for folks to understand, but it's factual, accurate, and exactly the way a 50amp RV plug configuration is wired. Thank you for the picture that helps to show the plug configuration.
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  9. #59
    Rolling Along
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnrb View Post
    Since this was not mentioned in any replies, I would like to add that an electrical circuit would not be designed to be loaded to more than 80% of it's ampacity. So a 30 amp supply would not be able to safely and legally deliver 6000 watts of power. This is due to electrical codes and standards currently in use. There are exceptions to this, such as 100% rated circuit breakers, but in this case the wire would still have to satisfy the 80% rule. Hopefully this is useful information to all.
    That is exactly the point of my original post. First, there is often confusion with terminology. The terms 30A and 50A are used a little too casually I think. The way those terms are used in the RV world implies that other than ampacity the two supplies are the same. We know from this discussion that 30A and 50A supplies are very different.

    Your point about 80% of ampacity is well taken. I won't speak to electrical codes, but I think my understanding of how this works is pretty sound. It is true that the requirement to supply the 50A split phase outlet is 6 gauge wire. However, that wire can be downsized on the appliance side of that outlet. If you consider the RV to be the appliance and limit the current within the RV, the wire from the pedestal to the RV can be downsized.

  10. #60
    Big Traveler
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    To the original question, why 50amps? You have to "size" for all the bling rv manufacturers have added to trailers.
    I'm with you, 30a is lots. I'm usually on 15a. If I was full timing or at least months at a time, I would likely appreciate the 50.

    @xrated , good explanation. I missed the teeter totter analogy but I know what you were trying to explain. Kind of wish I'd seen it.
    Understanding Electricity without a good grounding in fundamentals is difficult.
    Like we say at work..."electricity is a strange animal"

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