Repositioning safety chains

[kparrow]

Just did this mod 2 weeks ago on my 2600RB. Used a cutoff wheel to cut out the 2 damaged links and the attachment bar. 5/16 chain anchors from Amazon. A local portable welder provided the welding. Was lucky that the chains were just long enough after removing the 2 links and positioning the anchors. The sway bars did present a challenge but in this location the chains are not pinched on tight turns. Also with the outboard mounting the crossed chains provide more of a cradle should the tongue drop. Attachment 40741

Looks great! Still liking the location? If I do this I’m considering your location or simply on the underside of each beam. Any particular reason you didn’t under mount on the bottom side? Just curious


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[hnsbrighton]

I did consider the underside. There's a thin plate welded to the underside that locates the jack tube that looked like a perfect location but we decided it was too thin to provide a strong enough attachment even if additional welds were added to its edges. If the anchors were placed on the frame in front of that plate. the chains would again interfere with the hitch. I'm happy with the mod.

[PDXDale]

Is that a 1” or 2” rise ball? I’m considering both posted options. Since my links are already damaged I’m considering relocating with the buyers weld on attachment points or the riser ball.


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I used the 1" rise. You'll have to add one or two washers to avoid the shank sticking out on the bottom and potentially hitting the bar sockets of the Equalizer, so in the end that gives you around 1.5" rise. More than enough to solve the problem. The 2" rise ball would give you ~2.5" rise in the end, which would look weird, at least in my opinion.

I used Curt 40086, which is raw steel, rated 25k lbs. 40035 is the chrome version, rated for 10k. My trailer is around 7k, but I went with the raw steel version because... well, mostly because it feels so heavy duty My hitch is in the garage when not used, and no signs of corrosion at all. If I had the hitch mounted all the time, I might have chosen the chrome version.

I just checked, and Amazon has the 40086 for $26 right now. I assume you need a 2 5/16 ball?

1" rise, raw steel (what I used):
https://www.amazon.com/Curt-Manufact.../dp/B00IWTAEGG

1" rise, chrome (note that Amazon has 2" rise in the description, but 40035 is indeed 1". 2" would be 40036 I think)
https://www.amazon.com/CURT-40035-Tr.../dp/B0009TAOCG

Those are thew washers I used (not availabe anymore, but any hardened steel ones with 1 1/4 inner diameter should work):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BPKYVXG

[jleonard]

It's been a while since I've been on here, but it's ggod to see/read some of these ideas.
We've been on the road since end of May, 40 stops and about 7k miles, and I do have to move the chains.

[kyoungers]

I've got the exact same problem using my Equalizer hitch has clipped the safety chains. I found a bolt-on option that appears to meet GVWR requirements and would like to get any feedback from others before ordering and installing it.
TIA for any constructive feedback.

https://www.linklock.net/wp-content/...tion-Guide.pdf
https://www.linklock.net/wp-content/...10-28-2019.pdf

[paraskier]

After seeing some users in another forum, I see that I am not the only one with this issue, my chains looking pretty bad. Hitch has some wear but not bad.

[txarsoncop]

Thanks to @Shill123 and this thread, TIL why my safety chains look like this.

The only reason I even caught this was because I was installing a B&W Continuum hitch and then I wondered HOW the chains ended up like this?! I've never had an occasion, or reason, to nearly jacknife the trailer and then inspect the chains. NOW I know what I'm going to do before I actually tow with the Continuum hitch! For now I fixed it by cutting the damaged links off and used a pair of 3600# quicklinks. Thanks to @kyoungers post I'm probably going to go with linklocks for a final solution.