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  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoopy Frood View Post
    I don't believe that is correct. Some tunnels and ferries won't allow propane to be on during transit, but just running down the road isn't a problem in most places. And if it is, count me among the lawbreakers.
    Count me in too! Been running with the fridge on propane in every camper I've owned for over 22 years. When I use to tailgate in the dead of winter with my previous TT I would also run with the propane furnace on full blast to take the chill out of the rig.
    Last edited by IBEW Sparky; 12-09-2021 at 11:01 AM.
    Bill & Colleen ~ Schwenksville, Pa
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  2. #32
    Seasoned Camper
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    I put in two Lions Energy 105AH batteries with an inverter and wired in half of my breaker box which has the fridge on it. If I put the inverter on and the fridge on auto it will run. It pulls about 30AH when i look at the battery monitor which gives my 6 plus hours which is enough for most of what i would be doing.

    Regarding propane, I blew a tire on the rig which took out the gas line to the hot water heater. I did not notice this until we hooked up at a site and i smelled gas after I opened the tanks. I prefer to not run with propane on.

    But I need to remember to put it on propane when camped and boondocking.
    Imagine 2020 2670MK,
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  3. #33
    Setting Up Camp
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    Propane

    Quote Originally Posted by Second Chance View Post
    The Dometic absorption refrigerators use two electric heating elements when running on electric only and they have a high current draw. Running that fridge on electric only with an inverter from a battery will drain a battery in no time. You're much better running it on LP while not plugged into shore power.

    Rob
    Running anything on propane when driving is not safe. I think most insurance companies would not cover you if a fire should happen.

  4. #34
    Big Traveler Wicked ace's Avatar
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    A thought no one has touched on but should be considered. How about a 12VDC compressor fridge? You could get something that would pretty much fit right in and gain some cooling space too. A 10 cu. ft. 12VDC is about the same footprint as your 8 cu. ft. absorption 'fridge.
    Now this is why I say this. From what I have seen the DC refrigerators run about $1800 add a couple hundred to upgrade to an isolated 12vdc breaker and wiring to power it. Two 12vdc AGM deep cycle (insert Titan battery here) batteries would accommodate quite nicely. Also a compressor fridge will weigh less so you get a hidden benefit especially if it's in a slide.
    By the time you install an inverter, even more batteries ( which is more weight )that will hold up to the current draw, a disconnect switch, fuse, breaker box and wire up the whole shebang guess what it will end up costing?
    I see this as adhering to the KISS priciple. You are shedding weight instead of adding, keeping space open for other uses and getting a better, more simple solution.
    Last edited by Wicked ace; 12-08-2021 at 03:04 PM.
    2018 F150 XLT 301a, Screw, 4x4, HDPP, Max tow, Andersen Ultimate w/ Curt Double Lock hitch.
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  5. #35
    Setting Up Camp
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    In the long run it would be cheaper and more Efficient to buy a 12 volt chest type refrigerator freezer. Plug it into a 12 volt outlet.

  6. #36
    Long Hauler
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob2020 View Post
    Running anything on propane when driving is not safe. I think most insurance companies would not cover you if a fire should happen.
    I respectfully disagree, on both points.
    Howard and Peggy
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  7. #37
    Site Team traveldawg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Widget View Post
    I have a 2021 Imagine 2800bh with a Dometic frig gas/elec which I want to install an inverter which will allow me to run down the road without propane.

    Has anyone done this? I would like to know your experience with this.
    My gosh.... this thread is all over the place... Good discussion tho.....

    The OP said he wanted an inverter to run his frig to "...run down the road...'. So all this stuff about batteries, DC to DC converters and such seem to me to be kind a mute point. The tow vehicle will provide enough charge to any good battery bank to keep the RV batteries functioning while under way. Yea - maybe need 2 batteries instead of one for a bit of reserve (maybe), but no need for solar, Lithium and banks and bank of batteries.

    Once he is on shore power then he can continue on electric or switch to propane if wanted.

    I'm not getting into the whole propane regulation "thing" while traveling.
    Larry KE4DMG
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  8. #38
    Left The Driveway
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    I have a 2020 Solitude 380FL that I wanted to do the same thing. I am recently retired and have plans to be on the road for months at a time with many stops. I did not like the idea of running the propane while traveling down the road, there are two sides on that issue. I researched and ended up installing an inverter, solar, DC to DC charger with 330 amp hours of lithium batteries in hopes it will keep the fridge going during my 6-8 hour trips between camps. I enjoyed the project, there are many other benefits to the equipment I installed, but I suggest doing the research for the best fit for you. There are many videos on YouTube to help you decide.

  9. #39
    Seasoned Camper more tired since retired's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Second Chance View Post
    Actually, a little less than half. A 100AH deep cycle lead-acid battery weighs 66lbs; a 100AH Battle Born LiFePO4 battery weighs 31 lbs.

    Rob
    And a Lion Energy Safari UT-1300 weighs 23 pounds with 105AH. The Lion Energy and the Battle Born are both roughly the same size.
    Last edited by more tired since retired; 12-08-2021 at 08:33 PM.
    2020 F-250 XLT SuperCrew 7.3L Blue Ox SwayPro, 2020 Imagine 2600RB,
    1600W Solar w/525AH LiFePO4, Victron 3000W, Road Armor w/wet bolt suspension, VisionWork Camera System, Peplink MAX BR1 Pro 5G Mobile Router,MicroAir EasyStart
    Amateur Radio Call N9XGZ FMCA#489460 Escapees SKP#166379

  10. #40
    Seasoned Camper more tired since retired's Avatar
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    I'm looking at converting my Dometic cold box to a compressor. Cost for the conversion system is about $640 plus $90 shipping. Uses 0.8 amp hour with 60% cycle time with no propane. Or for about $100 more plus shipping, I can go with a pure DC compressor system which runs at 7.5A hour 12v with 65% cycle time. No propane and you don't have to be level.

    Running as it comes from the factory setup on AC, it's about 400 Watts.

    With my system of 1600W solar and 525AH Lion Energy Safari UT-1300 batteries (5 batteries), we should not have any issues for extended boondocking. A lot less work then you will be looking at, no propane hookup, and no issues with going up/down steep slopes, being off level on site and able to run the refrig colder than the factory in hotter weather than the factory setup. And I can keep my ice cream at or below zero without an issue. Also, using information on the manufacture of the conversion, I can go at least 5 days with my setup just running their upgrade on batteries (without recharge) alone.
    Last edited by more tired since retired; 12-09-2021 at 08:17 AM.
    2020 F-250 XLT SuperCrew 7.3L Blue Ox SwayPro, 2020 Imagine 2600RB,
    1600W Solar w/525AH LiFePO4, Victron 3000W, Road Armor w/wet bolt suspension, VisionWork Camera System, Peplink MAX BR1 Pro 5G Mobile Router,MicroAir EasyStart
    Amateur Radio Call N9XGZ FMCA#489460 Escapees SKP#166379

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