Sailun Tire Update

[butch50]

<snip>
"This is the reason I keep asking why I can't run less than Max on the sidewall when even the people that make the tires have charts telling you what pressure you need for a stated capacity?"

I think this is where you're having trouble with the tire pressure chart. The tire manufacturer isn't telling you to run your tires at the pressure indicated on the chart. They are telling you that the tire will support a specific load at a specific pressure indicated on the chart. There is more to tire life than load and some of that has been explained in this thread already (heat build up, skidding tires sideways while backing, resistance to road hazard damage, etc.). When I was in the tire testing business we routinely ran tires at lower pressures to accelerate the failure of the tire. Our customers were looking at the failure mode of their tires and running under inflated and/or overloaded was the fastest way to get there. I think it's important to look at the total job of the tire and not just the load handling capability to ensure long tire life and avoid failures. As always, YMMV.

Then again I have to ask if this is the case why are my truck tires are supposed to ran at 65PSI for the max load not the 80PSI asindicated on the sidewall. If that is not because of a load rating that the manufacturer wants you to run the tire? I know about heat but if you are running the proper pressure for the weight you are carrying than that should not happen. I need to call Sailun tire and get there take as some on another forum have called them and were told it was OK to run them at a lower pressure than max and to inflate for the amount of weight needed to haul plus 5 extra PSI up to the max. or to the max of the wheel.

Here is an interesting discussion on anther site that I just ran into with the same thing asking about running a lower pressure than max. Might make good read for some.

http://rv-dreams.activeboard.com/t61...-max-pressure/
The guy that runs this site has been an instructor for RV Safety & Education Foundation (RVSEF) and has done the weighing of vehicles

[Cate&Rob]

A comment WRT TPMS temperature readings . . . remember that this is the temperature at the end of the valve stem where the sensor is spinning in the breeze. I pay attention to my TPMS pressure readings, but not particularly to the temperature readings. At rest stops, I do use a laser temperature gauge across the tire treads and on the hubs. This temperature data is much more realistic than what you get from the TPMS sensor.

Rob

[hayman]

I always run the recomended tire pressure for the tire no matter what the load. Ran pickups with goosenecks and semi tractor trailer rigs and had very little tire problems, unless the tires were overloaded. No tire pressure adjustment will help overloadig.

hayman

[Cate&Rob]

TheLexx, some very good points in this most recent post. However, going back to my comment about a systems approach to suspension components, I think that tires and springs need to be in harmony with each other to create the best compromise for ride quality and tire safety (minimum tire failures). Heavier tires and sidewalls unwilling to flex cause harsh ride, tough on vehicle structure and cargo inside. Similarly, heavier springs have the same effect- they keep the tires from bottoming out on the inner fenders at a cost of harsh ride. Shock absorbers, or more correctly dampers, serve to keep oscillation of springs to a minimum of cycles, but will not have much effect on ride quality with stiff sidewall tires and/or springs. I remember getting mew tires installed on our Gold Wing and riding it home. There was severe jolting through the front forks when hitting bumps, and the front tire was at 38 psi rather than 33psi. I would say that as a hypothetical (not recommended), running Sailuns at the 80 psi recommended for Westlakes still would cause harsh ride quality because of the stiff sidewalls. No easy answers.

Steve - You and I are on the same page WRT treating tires, suspension and trailer weight as a "system" that should be kept as equally balanced as possible. I think this is just one of those "agree to disagree" situations for those who see this differently.

Rob

[butch50]

Steve - You and I are on the same page WRT treating tires, suspension and trailer weight as a "system" that should be kept as equally balanced as possible. I think this is just one of those "agree to disagree" situations for those who see this differently.

Rob

Rob,

See that is the thing, I'm trying to keep the balance the same as the E rated tires that came on the rig from the factory. If I go to the max on the sidewall I'm upsetting the balance. If I run at 80 to 85# I'm almost the same # rating as the Westlakes. Sure the sidewall is stiffer but my load capacity is going to be in the same range as the OEM. A little stiffer sidewall is going to flex almost the same as an E. You changed out your street side springs to 3000# compared to the stock 2600#. I can understand why you did it. At 80PSI my LRG tires are rated for.

Here is a quote from GY on RV tires

https://www.goodyearrvtires.com/tire...n-loading.aspx

"Proper Tire Inflation
Correct tire inflation is a key component in tire care. The recommended maximum inflation pressures for your tires are indicated on the certification label or in your owner's manual. Since RVs can be loaded with many different configurations, the load on each tire will vary. For this reason, actual air pressure required should be determined based on the load on each individual tire. Inflation pressure should be adjusted to handle the tire carrying the heaviest load, and all tires on the axle should be adjusted to this standard.

Each manufacturer provides load and inflation tables specific to their products to help you determine the correct tire inflation pressure for your vehicle's loading."

Has anyone taking the time to read the link I posted above? Please take the time to read it and then comment on i

[TheLexx]

I agree with load tables. Unfortunately Sailun used to have an inflation table, but not anymore. I wonder why they stopped posting it.

Someone was kind enough dig out their old Sailun table and post it. Here it is again.

[Dew59638]

i have over 100,000 miles on three 5th wheels in the 16000 gvw class. I USED to run goodyear 614 14 ply tires until i had 2 blow out on me and one delaminate. I had just checked all tire pressures that morning. Naturally tore up my current 5th wheel. I replace 4 west lakes with the goodyear about 4 months before the 2 blewout. Took to dealer, no warranty, called goodyear, they worked with me, had me send in the carcasses, at their expense. They denied any defect claim, did not provide explanation of why the blow out. Bottom line goodyear did not stand behind their product.

I now am running 4 trailer tires from Les Schwab. Have approximately 12,000 miles on them with no problems, knock on wood. Price is 2/3 of goodyear and they have a hazard warranty.

[Cate&Rob]

Hi Butch - I did read through the link that you provided and it circles around the same pros and cons that we have discussed here, of running at tire manufacturer's recommended pressure for load carried vs max pressure on the tire sidewall. A key point from that discussion is that RV manufacturers usually install tires that just meet the load carrying requirements . . . which leads to tire placards listing the max pressure for those OE tires. Interesting that if you over-spec the tires and follow the tire manufacturer's pressure recommendations . . . you get back to approximately the tire sidewall max pressure of the OE tires. From your comments, you are in the same camp as Steve & I . . . treat tires, suspension and load carried as a "system" and match all components as much as possible. I do think that the RV manufacturers are very aware of how fragile their "boxes of house stuff" are and choose suspension and tires to provide as much cushioning as possible as we drag these houses down the many less-than-perfect interstates.

Rob

[butch50]

Hi Rob,

This is what I have been trying to do by lower the pressure in the Sailun to match match the capacity of the Westlakes but everyone keeps telling me not to use the tire inflation chart and go by the max pressure. I don't think this is right, with the Load Inflation Charts I can match the Westlake and keep it in balance.

Here is another quote from Michelin.

"The most critical factor in tire maintenance is proper inflation. Driving on any tire that does not have the correct inflation pressure is dangerous and will cause tire damage. Improper pressure for the weight of the vehicle could cause premature wear, tire damage, or a harsher ride. The correct inflation pressure allows for full tread contact with the road surface and promotes traction, braking capability, and handling. An underinflated or overloaded tire will build up more heat that could go beyond the endurance limits of the rubber, steel belts, and radial cords. This could cause sudden tire failure. Underinflation will cause poor handling, faster and/or irregular tire wear, and a reduction in fuel economy. Overinflation, on the other hand, will reduce the tire’s contact area with the road surface, which reduces traction, braking ability, and handling. A tire that is overinflated for the weight it is carrying is more prone to a harsh ride, uneven tire wear, and impact damage. "

Here is the web site this comes from

https://www.michelinb2b.com/wps/b2bc...s_Brochure.pdf

[Cate&Rob]

Butch - For my "2 cents worth" I think you are on the right path. The Michelin info sums up the risks of both under and over inflation, very well. Part of the problem is that it is very difficult to "feel" tire and suspension changes to the trailer from the driver's seat of the truck . . . particularly if you have isolation elements in either the pin box or hitch. That was why I was particularly interested in TheLexx's comment that he could feel more chucking after changing to heavier tires.

Waiting for tire wear patterns to prove over inflation could take thousands of miles. Something you might try is tire tread temperature as an indicator of proper inflation. Immediately after coming off the highway, use a laser thermometer to measure temperatures across the tread. These should all be the same if inflation is correct. Over inflated is likely going to have a hotter center and under inflated is likely going to have hotter shoulders.

Rob