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  1. #11
    Rolling Along
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    Funny this came up today (in the newsletter). I was in the shower being slightly annoyed by the surging pressure from the onboard pump and it hit me how to solve the problem....

    I was thinking of finding a higher pressure pump, installing a pressure tank and then regulating back down to the 50psi that I want. That way the cycling of the pump is at a higher pressure than the regulator so I won't see it at the faucet or the shower head.

    Maybe I should have started a new thread but it seemed to fit here. To address the OP and others' comments, I put my regulator at the spigot to protect the hose (never had a failure, but I've seen crazy high pressure that made me worry about the hose). Also, the el cheapo regulators don't supply enough flow which is why most see better "pressure" from the onboard pump. I still carry a cheapo as a spare for emergencies, but the bigger adjustable regulator works much better.

  2. #12
    Fireside Member Markb777's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mobile Mesa View Post
    Assuming the regulator is attached correctly, in terms of water flow direction into the rig, does it really matter which end of the hose.
    Let's look at this in terms of hydraulics. If the regulator is at the spigot, friction loss in the hose will significantly lower the pressure received at the rig intake. If you attach the regulator inside the wet bay just prior to intake, you will be receiving the regulator pressure at the rig intake.

    I suppose you could figure out the friction loss in the section of hose, then increase the regulator psi at the spigot to compensate, however I don't carry friction loss charts with me anymore so my regular is in my heated, protected, can't forget and leave it at the campsite wet bay connected directly to my intake.
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  3. #13
    Fireside Member kamakazi98's Avatar
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    Water Pressure Regulator Hookup Location Question

    We use our own shutoff valve at the spigot because half the time the valves are jacked up to begin with. I put my adjustable regular at the shutoff to prevent over pressurizing the hose/inline filter.
    Last edited by kamakazi98; 12-18-2021 at 10:35 PM.
    2023 Reflection 297RSTS
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  4. #14
    Rolling Along
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roll With The Changes View Post
    Funny this came up today (in the newsletter). I was in the shower being slightly annoyed by the surging pressure from the onboard pump and it hit me how to solve the problem....

    I was thinking of finding a higher pressure pump, installing a pressure tank and then regulating back down to the 50psi that I want....
    One day years ago in a Carter's plumbing store I found a 3-gallon pressure tank for $10. I have installed and used it in our last three RV's. We can run about one gallon of water before the pump kicks on and builds the pressure back up. Being an electrician I feel bad for the pressure switch in a "direct" pump system with the lights flickering and the switch contacts opening and closing rapidly under full current for several seconds or minutes at a time...especially when doing dishes. I wasn't sure that the existing "Shur-Flo" switch would cycle properly but the switches worked just fine in all of our trailers. People visit and can't understand why they don't hear the pump when the water is turned on, but they hear it running after the water has stopped flowing...
    Frank and Char + Maya, Newport, Michigan. 2016 Solitude 379FL/2006 F250 6.0 diesel w/dually conversion. 4th rain-sense roof vent, two ceiling fans, Kodiak disc brakes, Carlisle G 14-ply tires, Water Miser x2, final dump valve, water header tank, fridge cond fan switch, outside range exhaust, elec hot water anode, filtered drinking water, triple battery box,

  5. #15
    Long Hauler
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    Quote Originally Posted by fez111 View Post
    One day years ago in a Carter's plumbing store I found a 3-gallon pressure tank for $10. I have installed and used it in our last three RV's. We can run about one gallon of water before the pump kicks on and builds the pressure back up. Being an electrician I feel bad for the pressure switch in a "direct" pump system with the lights flickering and the switch contacts opening and closing rapidly under full current for several seconds or minutes at a time...especially when doing dishes. I wasn't sure that the existing "Shur-Flo" switch would cycle properly but the switches worked just fine in all of our trailers. People visit and can't understand why they don't hear the pump when the water is turned on, but they hear it running after the water has stopped flowing...
    Alright, y'all have me thinking about this...

    I have a few questions.

    1. Will a 3 gallon RO (reverse osmosis) pressure tank work, even though the fitting is something like 3/8"? The engineer in me says this is not a good idea, to restrict the water flow.
    1a. I've found 2 gallon water heater pressure relief tanks, not sure if something like that would work.

    2. Where did/would y'all plumb it in? Directly after the pump, in other words:
    Fresh tank -> pump -> pressure tank -> the rest of the system.
    2a. What affect, if any, does this have in the hot water heater?

    3. Does the stock water pump provide sufficient pressure to fill the pressure tank?

    4. How would one winterize it sanitize the tank? For winterizing, does one plumb in a bypass line, like the hot water heater? Does one put in a low point drain for it?

    5. Most of the tanks I quickly googled had just one orifice, so I'm a little confused as to how that would work. I understand how RO systems work with the tank, is it the same concept?

    Thanks in advance for all the off topic advice...

    Dang it! So the wife, I hate plumbing, I do much better with computers, micro electronics, electrical, and wood! Oh, and high velocity hole punchers. [emoji6]

    (Mods, if you think this post should be an OP, and y'all can moved it, please do so!)

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  6. #16
    Rolling Along
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    Quote Originally Posted by MoonShadow_1911 View Post
    Alright, y'all have me thinking about this...

    I have a few questions.

    1. Will a 3 gallon RO (reverse osmosis) pressure tank work, even though the fitting is something like 3/8"? The engineer in me says this is not a good idea, to restrict the water flow.
    1a. I've found 2 gallon water heater pressure relief tanks, not sure if something like that would work.

    2. Where did/would y'all plumb it in? Directly after the pump, in other words:
    Fresh tank -> pump -> pressure tank -> the rest of the system.
    2a. What affect, if any, does this have in the hot water heater?

    3. Does the stock water pump provide sufficient pressure to fill the pressure tank?

    4. How would one winterize it sanitize the tank? For winterizing, does one plumb in a bypass line, like the hot water heater? Does one put in a low point drain for it?

    5. Most of the tanks I quickly googled had just one orifice, so I'm a little confused as to how that would work. I understand how RO systems work with the tank, is it the same concept?

    Thanks in advance for all the off topic advice...

    Dang it! So the wife, I hate plumbing, I do much better with computers, micro electronics, electrical, and wood! Oh, and high velocity hole punchers. [emoji6]

    (Mods, if you think this post should be an OP, and y'all can moved it, please do so!)

    Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

    The one fitting in the tank is all you need. When the pump turns on, water flows into the tank, compressing the air trapped in the tank. Since air is compressible, the pressure rises slowly. When the pump is off and a faucet is opened, the pressure in the tank supplies the water until the air pressure drops low enough for the pump to turn on. Everything works the same except that the pressure changes more slowly. For the electrical people here, it works like a capacitor.

    You could in theory install the tank anywhere on the cold side of the system by just installing a tee in the existing pipe, but closer to the pump is better (after the pump).

    As far as winterizing, the tank should be mounted with the fitting down, so the water drains completely when the low point drain is opened.

    A few thoughts on finding the right tank: A boiler pressure tank is about the right size (about 3 gallons at the plumbing and heating store). However, the ones I've seen are short with a large diameter, so it might be hard to fit it where you want. A piece of 6 inch pipe 30 inches long is about 3.6 gallons and would likely tuck nicely into a corner somewhere. But there is a drawback to that. A manufactured pressure tank has a rubber bladder inside and the tank is pre pressurized (hence the one fitting). If you use pipe, you would need to add a fitting on the top to pressurize it with air. This setup would require some babysitting and care to charge it to the right pressure, but for me that would be ok if that's what it came to.

  7. #17
    Long Hauler
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roll With The Changes View Post
    The one fitting in the tank is all you need. When the pump turns on, water flows into the tank, compressing the air trapped in the tank. Since air is compressible, the pressure rises slowly. When the pump is off and a faucet is opened, the pressure in the tank supplies the water until the air pressure drops low enough for the pump to turn on. Everything works the same except that the pressure changes more slowly. For the electrical people here, it works like a capacitor.

    You could in theory install the tank anywhere on the cold side of the system by just installing a tee in the existing pipe, but closer to the pump is better (after the pump).

    As far as winterizing, the tank should be mounted with the fitting down, so the water drains completely when the low point drain is opened.

    A few thoughts on finding the right tank: A boiler pressure tank is about the right size (about 3 gallons at the plumbing and heating store). However, the ones I've seen are short with a large diameter, so it might be hard to fit it where you want. A piece of 6 inch pipe 30 inches long is about 3.6 gallons and would likely tuck nicely into a corner somewhere. But there is a drawback to that. A manufactured pressure tank has a rubber bladder inside and the tank is pre pressurized (hence the one fitting). If you use pipe, you would need to add a fitting on the top to pressurize it with air. This setup would require some babysitting and care to charge it to the right pressure, but for me that would be ok if that's what it came to.
    Perfect information. Thanks. I want sure if it worked like an RO tank, which it does. Now, just need to find a spot for it!

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  8. #18
    Site Sponsor Mobile Mesa's Avatar
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    Cool Thanks for the insight!

    Thanks to all for the awesome feedback and discussion. The information gleaned from so much lived experience is immeasurable. DW and I REALLY appreciate you all!😎
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  9. #19
    Fireside Member Linndoren's Avatar
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    Have you thought of the stainless hoses?

    Quote Originally Posted by MoonShadow_1911 View Post
    Yeah, I'm looking to change them out to Pex.

    Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
    I have a similar set up but I use two short stainless hoses. No kinks no worries about fittings ect.
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  10. #20
    Site Team Second Chance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Linndoren View Post
    I have a similar set up but I use two short stainless hoses. No kinks no worries about fittings ect.
    Same here. I also use a fixed-pressure, 55 PSI regulator at the faucet end outside. My heated hose has a pigtail on it to wrap around the outside regulator and faucet. I cover that with some closed-cell foam and some Reflectix and Bungee it up. I have measured the water pressure at this park at 130 PSI! At parks where the pressure is lower (measured), I often don't use the outside regulator. Here's the inside setup (what doesn't show up well in the photo is the plumbing pipe support behind the Y):

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Rob
    Last edited by Second Chance; 12-21-2021 at 09:07 AM.
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