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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by traveldawg View Post
    Before I get into how/why/what I did, let's back-up a bit.....

    What is you want to do? It looks like you just want 2 refrigerators on AC when driving. I have to admit I am not familiar with the AC/DC/Gas refrigerators as I've had a residential refrigerator the last 2 RVs.

    Never mind about how to do it right now, I'm just a bit confused on the overall "mission" here. I don't want to propose an over complicated set-up if it is just one circuit you need on an inverter.

    Thanks....
    Powering the external refrigerator while traveling was the prime objective but the degree of difficulty of either running an AC line to it or a heavy DC line to power a 400 w inverter locally, is high. Actually higher than what you have implemented with the secondary breaker box. The functionality of the Xantrex is over kill for my needs but it explains questions that I've always had. My Holiday Rambler motor home had an inverted that seamlessly ran the coffee maker whether I was on shore power or on battery. When Oliver installed the inverter in my 17' travel trailer, they wired dedicated outlets. It worked but I had to unplug the coffee maker and move to the inverter outlet. I didn't understand it at the time but I think I do now. Regarding a complicated setup, I can isolated a single breaker and power the external refrigerator. No problem. For free, I also power the TV and coffee maker outlet off the same change. As a bonus, I get the refrigerator that allow me to run AC mode while traveling. I've already made the change to the truck to supply 50 amps to a DC/DC converter to charger the batteries while I tow, so running the inverter fits well within the design. Now that I've lifted the hood to see how the switch panel operates and for a nickel more, I think can isolate two additional breaker and have a hands free inverter system for my simple needs. As I mentioned, the biggest wart in my current setup is that I have to drop the converter breaker, which is in the switch panel behind the couch. I have to turn the converter when I connect the coach to the inverter to eliminate the parasitic charge loop when I connect the extension cord to the 50 amp input power connector.
    Last edited by wjpatter; 05-02-2021 at 04:13 PM.
    Bill & Marsha
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  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by wjpatter View Post
    Powering the external refrigerator while traveling was the prime objective but the degree of difficulty of either running an AC line to it or a heavy DC line to power a 400 w inverter locally, is high. Actually higher than what you have implemented with the secondary breaker box. The functionality of the Xantrex is over kill for my needs but it explains questions that I've always had. My Holiday Rambler motor home had an inverted that seamlessly ran the coffee maker whether I was on shore power or on battery. When Oliver installed the inverter in my 17' travel trailer, they wired dedicated outlets. It worked but I had to unplug the coffee maker and move to the inverter outlet. I didn't understand it at the time but I think I do now. Regarding a complicated setup, I can isolated a single breaker and power the external refrigerator. No problem. For free, I also power the TV and coffee maker outlet off the same change. As a bonus, I get the refrigerator that allow me to run AC mode while traveling. I've already made the change to the truck to supply 50 amps to a DC/DC converter to charger the batteries while I tow, so running the inverter fits well within the design. Now that I've lifted the hood to see how the switch panel operates and for a nickel more, I think can isolate two additional breaker and have a hands free inverter system for my simple needs. As I mentioned, the biggest wart in my current setup is that I have to drop the converter breaker, which is in the switch panel behind the couch. I have to turn the converter when I connect the coach to the inverter to eliminate the parasitic charge loop when I connect the extension cord to the 50 amp input power connector.
    OK. I get it.... Simple one circuit on an inverter for the external frig, TV and coffee maker. And, if you can, 2 more circuits for the other outlets.

    I think for one circuit (and maybe 2 if within an inverter specs) you could just use one like a lot of the manufactures are using. This one has a built in transfer switch.

    As soon as you get more complicated and want multiple circuits which draw more power I think you need to move away from that example and figure out how to power an inverter with one circuit (most likely a 30amp circuit) and then feed the inverter output back to the 1,2, or 3 circuits you want to power. That's where the sub panel comes in. I got mine at Lowes (or maybe Home Depot).

    And then you will need to power the converter from a non-inverter circuit. On my rig the converter was already on it's own circuit, it sounds like yours shares a circuit with other things. So either you isolate the converter circuit or forget using an inverter output for the converter circuit (and what ever else is on it).
    Larry KE4DMG
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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by traveldawg View Post
    OK. I get it.... Simple one circuit on an inverter for the external frig, TV and coffee maker. And, if you can, 2 more circuits for the other outlets.

    I think for one circuit (and maybe 2 if within an inverter specs) you could just use one like a lot of the manufactures are using. This one has a built in transfer switch.

    As soon as you get more complicated and want multiple circuits which draw more power I think you need to move away from that example and figure out how to power an inverter with one circuit (most likely a 30amp circuit) and then feed the inverter output back to the 1,2, or 3 circuits you want to power. That's where the sub panel comes in. I got mine at Lowes (or maybe Home Depot).

    And then you will need to power the converter from a non-inverter circuit. On my rig the converter was already on it's own circuit, it sounds like yours shares a circuit with other things. So either you isolate the converter circuit or forget using an inverter output for the converter circuit (and what ever else is on it).
    Anything resistive or the AC's draw too much power. The microwave, by it's self, is near the limit of the inverter so that is take a bit or care to use. So it think it will look like this.Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Subpanel with Transfer Switch.jpg 
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ID:	33849
    Bill & Marsha
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    Not All Who Wander Are Lost

  4. #14
    Site Team traveldawg's Avatar
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    First, there should be an inverter in the circuit someplace for that to work (or I don't understand what the WFCO transfer switch entails. Do you already have an inverter? If not the just get one with a built in transfer switch.

    Then that would work. But I don't see a Microwave running very well unless you have a bunch of batteries.

    And I still think you should just use one of the circuits you move to the sub panel to feed 30amps to the transfer switch. It may only make a difference if you want to power off the inverter while there is still power to the RV (for maintenance or something like that I suppose).
    Larry KE4DMG
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    2019 310GK-R - Sailuns; MorRyde IS; Disc Brakes; 20K Reese Goosebox
    Search kalakamods for my mods


  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by traveldawg View Post
    First, there should be an inverter in the circuit someplace for that to work (or I don't understand what the WFCO transfer switch entails. Do you already have an inverter? If not the just get one with a built in transfer switch.

    Then that would work. But I don't see a Microwave running very well unless you have a bunch of batteries.

    And I still think you should just use one of the circuits you move to the sub panel to feed 30amps to the transfer switch. It may only make a difference if you want to power off the inverter while there is still power to the RV (for maintenance or something like that I suppose).
    4 AGM Batteries power the 2000w inverter. The DC/DC Converter runs off the truck alternator or solar panels to pump 50 amp of charge current into the batteries. I'll move two breakers from the switch panel to isolate refrigerators, TV, microwave and all coach outlets. I'll insert a 30amp breaker in the hole created moving the circuits to power the sub panel. The only issue is how much confidence do I have with the WFCL transfer switch. If I bury it near the subpanel I only need to pull one power line from the front where the inverter is to the switch. If it fails, it becomes a major repair digging it out so I'm leaning toward keeping it exposed in the front compartment. I see the micro wave running 3 minutes at a time for pop corn or maybe 10 minutes to cook the dogs chicken, which happens maybe once a week.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Subpanel with Transfer Switch.jpg 
Views:	10 
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    Last edited by wjpatter; 05-05-2021 at 07:21 AM.
    Bill & Marsha
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  6. #16
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    Sounds like a good plan. I'd put the transfer switch where it is pretty easy to get to. Let us know how it works out.
    Larry KE4DMG
    2022 F-350 KRU SRW LB - Airlift 5000+, ForScan, 37 RDS Aux Tank,
    2019 310GK-R - Sailuns; MorRyde IS; Disc Brakes; 20K Reese Goosebox
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