Is this cable broken?

[FT4NOW]

I see 2 items on the GD parts website related to valves. Any idea how to tell what goes where? One kind for black and one kind for gray? The first one is a bristol valve? They look like they are glued on, so to replace them do you have to cut them off and splice other pieces in?

I do like your description on how you handled working on things. I may resort to that if the mobile mechanic route does not pan out.

Attachment 33676

Attachment 33677

Best bet is call GD and provide your VIN, they can tell you which valve is installed. Other option is to drop coroplast and see what you have. In either case, the flange will be glued to the tank and pipe manifold. The valves are interchangeable as long as you get correct size, 3" for black, 1.5" for gray. If you remove the 4 nuts/bolts on the valve, you can ditch the new valve flanges and use the existing flanges that are glued into the system.

The challenge will be reassembling the valves while keeping the seal in place. I wrestled with the manifold for awhile and thought I had it set correct, filled tank and didnt see any leaks. A month later I smelled something funky and dropped the coroplast, about a gallon of black water dumped out....fun times!

Turns out I didnt set the seal correctly. This time I cut the pipe with a sawzall (a portion of the manifold) and was able to properly set the new valve in place. I purchased a 3" rubber coupling made for sewer systems to attach the pipe where the cut was made. It lasted about 2.5 years leak free (it didnt start leaking again, I sold the camper).

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[Just Krusen]

I got tired of the cable problems on my 376. I installed a Valterra electric valve on my black tank a year ago. Install was easy and it works great. Planning to do the grey tanks in the future.

[John303]

Just to close this out, I did find a mobile tech that changed out the valve. He covers middle/east TN if anyone is in that area. His business name is Fickey's RV Mobile Service. It was more expensive than I thought it would be, but isn't everything...$328. He brought along a helper and it took both of them to spread the piping enough to get the new valve in. At one point he even had his foot up there to get better leverage. He also cut up some 2x2 to make a frame to screw the the belly material to so it would not depend on tape alone to stay together.

Glad to have it done, and I would call him again for a repair.

[John303]

Just to close this out, I did find a mobile tech that changed out the valve. He covers middle/east TN if anyone is in that area. His business name is Fickey's RV Mobile Service. It was more expensive than I thought it would be, but isn't everything...$328. He brought along a helper and it took both of them to spread the piping enough to get the new valve in. At one point he even had his foot up there to get better leverage. He also cut up some 2x2 to make a frame to screw the the belly material to so it would not depend on tape alone to stay together.

Glad to have it done, and I would call him again for a repair.

I am afraid I will have to take back my recommendation of Fickey's. A few days after his work when I was pushing in the handle for the black tank, something gave way or became unattached. The handle moves in and out but does not seem to actuate the valve. Repeated efforts to get him back out and correct it have proven to be pointless. Looks like I will have to get in there after all.

[FT4NOW]

I am afraid I will have to take back my recommendation of Fickey's. A few days after his work when I was pushing in the handle for the black tank, something gave way or became unattached. The handle moves in and out but does not seem to actuate the valve. Repeated efforts to get him back out and correct it have proven to be pointless. Looks like I will have to get in there after all.

Is the new valve a Valterra valve? Good news with Valterra is you can replace the cable without removing the valve. Should be an easy fix.

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[John303]

Is the new valve a Valterra valve? Good news with Valterra is you can replace the cable without removing the valve. Should be an easy fix.

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Thanks for the encouragement. If the rain lets up I will take a look tomorrow. And yes it is a Valterra valve, and there is an RV parts place not too far away. At least I have the underbelly cut and flapped, so I know where to look.

[FT4NOW]

Thanks for the encouragement. If the rain lets up I will take a look tomorrow. And yes it is a Valterra valve, and there is an RV parts place not too far away. At least I have the underbelly cut and flapped, so I know where to look.

Before buying parts, or maybe buy the parts and prepare to return them, take a look at where the cable meets the valve.

The way the cable attaches to the valve:
There is a part attached to the gate which has a hole in it, the center of the cable, which looks like solid wire, goes through the hole and then it should be bent back and twisted to prevent coming out of the hole. If I were to guess, this is where the problem is. Might not have been secured properly and came out of the hole.

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[John303]

Got under the rig this morning. The wire was securely connected to the rod, but the cable had pulled out of the compression nut that was supposed to hold it. The first time I tried to put the cable back in and tightened the nut, it did not hold. The second time I used pliers on the plastic nut which made me a little nervous; pliers and plastic does not seeming like a good combination. But i ran the handle in and out 3 times and it held this time, so I hope it is good to go.

The silver lining in all this is I have more comfort with the mysteries of the underbelly.

Thanks for all the help and encouragement.