Replacing Kantleak plastic water valve with Brass version

[ljlund66]

I continue to obsess over the one nagging issue we've experienced with our 323BHS, the Kantleak water valve system. I've experienced the leak on the back of the panel due to the plastic tee that is used, as well as having to replace the internal cartridge 3 or 4 times (plus having had the entire panel replaced once before the issue with the cartridge was identified). I've done much reading here and in the on the Grand Design RV Owners Facebook page regarding replacing the plastic tee with a brass one and that seems to be a viable option. I have also contacted support (Ron) at Anderson Brass, and he said that as of last August, they now have a more robust repair kit available, so I will likely obtain one of those. However, I'm also exploring the possibility of replacing the plastic 4 way valve with the brass version. Has anyone here done that mod, and if so, what further information could you provide about it? How did you obtain the brass valve and what was the cost? Thanks in advance.

[gordofuchs]

One thing that has been noted in the past with these Kantleak valves, is to make sure that the valve is turned in the same direction all the time. ( I know that doesn't help with your brass valve question ).

[Gyro Gearloose]

I continue to obsess over the one nagging issue we've experienced with our 323BHS, the Kantleak water valve system. I've experienced the leak on the back of the panel due to the plastic tee that is used, as well as having to replace the internal cartridge 3 or 4 times (plus having had the entire panel replaced once before the issue with the cartridge was identified). I've done much reading here and in the on the Grand Design RV Owners Facebook page regarding replacing the plastic tee with a brass one and that seems to be a viable option. I have also contacted support (Ron) at Anderson Brass, and he said that as of last August, they now have a more robust repair kit available, so I will likely obtain one of those. However, I'm also exploring the possibility of replacing the plastic 4 way valve with the brass version. Has anyone here done that mod, and if so, what further information could you provide about it? How did you obtain the brass valve and what was the cost? Thanks in advance.

Glad to hear the new Kantleak repair kit is available hopefully it works better.

I talked to Ron last year about brass rv 4way and asked if I could get it with 1/2NPTS (National Pipe Thread Straight) on all the inputs and outputs, but the answer was no. I just don't like all those crimp fittings, in the event I need to make a repair.

The only place I have seen 4way brass RV (P/N: 9200ARV $147.22) fitting online is: http://www.fitzilla.com/Store/page188.html

Pat

[Bamaman]

My Kantleak valve is brass. The problem with mine was the nylon piping adjoining the PEX pipe to the Kantleak valve--fabricated by Grand Design. I had a leak that required my disassembling (unscrewing) the fittings and wraping the threads with gray (thick) teflon tape. Took about 20 minutes start to finish.

[arhayes]

My Kantleak valve is brass. The problem with mine was the nylon piping adjoining the PEX pipe to the Kantleak valve--fabricated by Grand Design. I had a leak that required my disassembling (unscrewing) the fittings and wraping the threads with gray (thick) teflon tape. Took about 20 minutes start to finish.

I rebuilt my Kantleak valve to brass a couple of years ago after having replaced 2 of them and have had no more problem. However, I continued to have occasional water spots when checking he basement. Recently had to have my furnace repaired, and discovered some minor weeping - and all the leaks were where GD had used flexible hose to the PEX rather than correctly using 100% PEX. I'm sure they saved a little time, and therefore some money. I replaced it all today and now am 100% PEX with industrial connectors and clamps. Hopefully my days of water leaks are over.

I sure wish they'd done the plumbing right to begin with!


Alan