Wheel lug torque

[dmagnus]

I want to check the torque on my trailer wheels (2017 303 RLS) before my next trip. Can you just put the torque wrench on the lugs, set to 115-120 ft/lbs or so and check it or do you have to back them all off and re-torque?
I realize that would probably be best, but it seems like an awful hassle to do EVERY TIME you are going to tow it.

If you have to back them off, I suppose you also have to get the wheel off the ground first.

Maybe I should just bite the bullet and take all the wheels off and take them to my local shop to be balanced (with the TPM sensors installed) and then torque them properly when I re-install them.

[Sirsea]

No need to back off, if you do you are supposed to recheck them after a hundred miles or thereabouts. I checked mine more frequently when the camper was new until the nuts were well seated. Now I only check them about every thousand miles, unless we hit some really rough roads. No changes in the last year.

[TucsonJim]

BTW, for 15 and 16" wheels with 1/2" studs, the specified torque is 90-120 Ft-lbs. I torque mine to 105 Ft-lbs to minimize any +/- wrench tolerance issues.

Jim

[Cate&Rob]

I agree that there is no expectation that you back off lug nuts before checking torque. You are really just checking see if anything came loose. BTW, I have never encountered this, if the nuts were properly torqued in the first place.

But . . . there might be a better way to make sure everything is seated properly, since LCI gives a torque range for lug nuts . . . 90 to 120 ft lbs in my case. If I have had the wheels off, I will torque the lug nuts to the lower end of the spec. Then, within 50 miles, I will re-torque to a higher number within the spec. This means that I can feel the nut break free and move a little so I know it is truly torqued and not just stuck. I use 95 the first time and 110 the second.

Rob

[Budprint9462]

Personally I would break them all free and re-torque the first time just because on my 2016 303, when I went to remove the wheels to check for leaking seals, the lugs were ridiculously tight and almost stuck to the wheel. Glad I didn't have to fight that on the side of the road.

[Cate&Rob]

Personally I would break them all free and re-torque the first time just because on my 2016 303, when I went to remove the wheels to check for leaking seals, the lugs were ridiculously tight and almost stuck to the wheel. Glad I didn't have to fight that on the side of the road.

Scott - I would certainly agree with this if somebody else installed the wheels. Probably done with an air gun which even with a "torque stick" can drive the torque way above spec with multiple hits.

Rob

[Jim & Deb]

Along the same line....sort of.... at least it's lug nut related. I got new solid nuts from Costco for .50 each. It only took a couple of on/offs to start seeing the caps split on the OEM nuts.

Jim

[Canyonlight]

In the last year or two I trust GDRV moved away from the tin covered lug nuts which received a less than warm welcome from so many of us, to stainless or chrome lug nuts ? If so, about when did this change happen ?

Dan

[Jim & Deb]

In the last year or two I trust GDRV moved away from the tin covered lug nuts which received a less than warm welcome from so many of us, to stainless or chrome lug nuts ? If so, about when did this change happen ?

Dan

Hey Dan,

Mine was built in May of 2015 (2016 trailer) and it still had the capped nuts.

Jim

EDIT:

I also got one of these to prevent marring the wheel when checking the torque. https://www.amazon.com/Performance-T...in+Wall+Socket

Jim

[Canyonlight]

Jim--thanks......I did the about 50 cents/lug nut from Costco too.....see post #5 in this thread: http://www.mygrandrv.com/for...ghlight=Costco



I like that socket......will have to get one of those......thanks for sharing that !

Dan