380TH Ramp Door "softness"

[D2Reid]

I would think diamond plate would have quite a bit of flex in it unless it was pretty thick. 1000 lb MC, 500lb each wheel dispersed over 4-5 inches. I would be thinking more rigid. I would lean toward 2x12's. Then add some flat iron cross members to help disperse the weight. I would not expect the door on my 376TH to hold that much weight without dispersing it.

Dallas

[keywestparrothead]

I would think diamond plate would have quite a bit of flex in it unless it was pretty thick. 1000 lb MC, 500lb each wheel dispersed over 4-5 inches. I would be thinking more rigid. I would lean toward 2x12's. Then add some flat iron cross members to help disperse the weight. I would not expect the door on my 376TH to hold that much weight without dispersing it.

Dallas

^^ x2. I have about 980 lbs. of bike plus my 275 and I feel the flex every time and cringe... I think a good 2x12 up the middle would help a lot, either temporary or permanently attached. Then you could attach the diamond plate to the 2x12 and replace as needed. Just my .02 :-)

[Big Mike]

That is it. No other structure.

[JCR GD]

Thanks Mike. I guess I'll pay a little more attention to loading loads.

[arhayes]

Semi good news. I did send a note to LCI detailing the problem and asking for suggestions to repair. They came back that the door needed to be replaced and asked for a photo of the door label. No mention of who is paying, so I'll wait to get their answer to that Monday and go from there. In the meantime, I have a 24" x 60" piece of 1/2" birch plywood that was left over from making a desk in the garage stored under the Happijac bed, so can use that as a temp reinforcement to get the bike on. I'll put angle brackets on one end to hang over the top of the ramp and that should serve as a temp fix. I'll have to store it when we travel. We'll be in Colorado Springs mid next week for a month and either do a new door or more permanent fix. The journey continues!


Alan

[arhayes]

Finally heard back from LCI. $1832 plus freight to get a replacement to me, then whatever someone will charge to install it. Now I have to figure out the logistics of coordinating where we'll be so I can get it shipped to a location where I can get the job done. This was not in our plans, but I guess this kind of stuff never is. Full-timing has its challenges!

[RamGunner]

That really sucks - you'd hope that being a toy hauler it was designed to last longer. I think I'd be considering what could be done with a sheet of metal and some weatherproofing around the edges, but it wouldn't be as nice as what's supposed to be there.

[arhayes]

I'm disappointed too! I had no expectation of spending that kind of money replacing a key component on a not quite 3 year old rig that's also our home.

Guess I need to think about what I'll need to do to reinforce the new door once I get it. I don't want this to be an every 3 year thing.[emoji33]


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[JCR GD]

Alan, I know it will be nice to have a new door but it will probably end up being well over $2000 and for that price (since not covered by warrantee) I think I would put something over the door/soft spot to reinforce it and keep the existing door. My guess is you will have to do it to the new door anyway to protect it. I'm sure there are "pretty" ways to do it. Good luck and please keep us updated on what you do.

[D2Reid]

This was not in our plans, but I guess this kind of stuff never is. Full-timing has its challenges!

I feel your pain. I spent an unplanned month in Kanab, UT waiting for my truck to get fixed.

Have you thought about just through bolting some 2"x12" onto the inside of the door?

I am watching this thread carefully because I have a new door and a motorcycle. Granted my motorcycle only weighs 350 pounds, but I have been suspicious of the doors strength and durability since I first saw one.

Please do post your resolution.

Dallas