380TH Ramp Door "softness"

[Big Mike]

Alan,

If you got that price from LCI, that will not include seals and decals for the door, those are typically supplied by GD. Also, I don't know if that includes a new patio kit, but you can re-install your old one to save some $$$. You will have to install your old locks and some of the hardware.

Big Mike

[arhayes]

Mike,

You're right - I did get it from LCI and didn't ask about the seals. I did ask on the locks, and figured I'd reuse my old playpen. Surprisingly, the door incudes the hinges. Of course that would be an issue since ours started pulling out of the frame while under warranty and had to be fitted with washers and nuts. I also planned to just leave the back without decals. I'm still not sold on buying a new one. I'm going to post in the Motorcycle groups to see if anyone has strengthened their door. I can see a new door hitting $3000 plus real easily, and I'd bet I could find someone to come up with a repair solution for a lot less.

Appreciate the heads up!

[arhayes]

I feel your pain. I spent an unplanned month in Kanab, UT waiting for my truck to get fixed.

Have you thought about just through bolting some 2"x12" onto the inside of the door?

I am watching this thread carefully because I have a new door and a motorcycle. Granted my motorcycle only weighs 350 pounds, but I have been suspicious of the doors strength and durability since I first saw one.

Please do post your resolution.

Dallas

Will do. Yes - I have considered a 2x12but my concern is if bolting it through, since the outside feels mushy, will be a long range permanent fix. I also would like what ever is done to be palatable to a future buyer in case we decide to change rigs someday.

Still investigating and I posted on 2 other forums today, so will see if anything else surfaces. Thanks for the suggestions!


Alan

[D2Reid]

Alan, please provide more information on mushy. When I first read this thread I envisioned something like a bruised apple. When I reread it I noted the exterior mushiness. Then the other post on water seepage causing mushiness.

Have you figured out why it's getting mushy? I can see 1000 pound bike having pretty good psi pressure. So why not broken, why just mushy? Did the weight squish the foam board inside? Did it break down the bond between the layers allowing for sag?

I have successfully used a product called Git Rot on fiberglass and wood on boats. I have no idea if it would work here.

Another out of the box idea; Go to welder and have them build a grid like lattice work of 1/4" angle iron. Similar idea as the planks and the diamond plating, just more rigid.

Just trying to be helpful.

Dallas

[arhayes]

Dallas,

The mushiness I believe is actually an area where you believe the bond failed and the foam core is broken down. To look at it from either the ramp side or outside when closed, it looks fine. But it you walk up the ramp and hit the top center, you can feel and see the definite flex. If you push on the outer surface when the door is closed, outside of the lower center it feels hard, but when you push on the lower half from 18" of center you can feel the skin giving. Hope this helps. I got info from another forum that the doors have a seam down the center where the 2 plywood sheets meet. If this is true, it makes sense that the center would be a weak point and fail. I've send a note to LCI to confirm that, for what it's worth. Won't help me, but would sure be good for anyone loading a single bike to know.



Alan

[Mrhavasu]

This is a bunch of crap, the door should not be failing like this. Have you contacted GD? I would be raising hell over this. I am not real impressed with these
doors either, but what your experiencing is not right. I dont care if it is out of warranty. This does not speak well for GD.

[arhayes]

No - I didn't contact GD since It's almost 3 years old. I do plan on writing a letter to the CEO, though. It's another of those failures on Lippert's part, though GD specs the construction.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[arhayes]

Just to keep this open, we finally hit a 1 week stop in our travels in Casper, Wyoming and I investigated buying 1/4" diamond plate. I was quoted almost $800 as I'd have to buy a full sheet and have it cut to the 32" by 94 1/4" needed to cover the full center section of the ramp. That width would allow the center 3 hinges to bolt trough the plate and the length would allow the bottom to be screwed into the lower portion of the door frame. I also checked into Challenger Door, but their construction is the basically the same as LCI and I'd have to have it painted to somewhat match our existing tan color. I finally broke down and wrote a letter to GD asking what they could do. We'll see what they say. Either way I see an unscheduled trip to Indiana in our future.

I would definitely recommend that anyone who consistently loads motorcycles reinforce their door somehow. Perhaps an ATV or trike might spread the weight enough, but the smaller contact patch of a 1000 lb touring bike is definitely going to result in a problem. The few weeks a year user may never have a problem, but I'd guess any full-timer who loads/offloads weekly is eventually going to suffer some damage.

I'll post what response I get from GD.

[Mrhavasu]

I feel for you, but really think you need to call, or email. I roll my street bike up, my rzr, golf cart and no problems. Snail mail is just that
and easily ignored. If they don't respond favorably, post this on their FB page. The door certainly appears to not be right, regardless of the 3 years.
They may just surprise you.

[D2Reid]

I have never priced diamond plate so was not aware it would cost that much. I will need to load and unload a few more times to get a better feel for the doors strength. By making this post I am now forewarned about the problem and stand a better chance of catching it before it's an issue.

Dallas