Cargo carrier

[paphil]

Leaving on first long trip west and trying to figure out how to carry generator and bikes. Found this online and was wondering if anyone has tried it. Can not find any online reviews.

http://www.discountramps.com/lets-go...fp-4/p/H01380/

[BabyBober]

Leaving on first long trip west and trying to figure out how to carry generator and bikes. Found this online and was wondering if anyone has tried it. Can not find any online reviews.

http://www.discountramps.com/lets-go...fp-4/p/H01380/

It sould work. Just remember that the hitch on the back of your unit is only rated for 300lbs. I don't see the need to purchase a sliding cargo box. You don't need to move it out of the way on the back of the camper like you do on a SUV with a hatch....

[Go Dawgs]

Remember you will get a ton of bounce. Why not put the generator in the bed of the truck and a regular bike rake on back? More secure and less expensive.

[Second Chance]

Remember you will get a ton of bounce. Why not put the generator in the bed of the truck and a regular bike rake on back? More secure and less expensive.

X2 ^^. The G forces at the back of a towable are incredible - they magnify the weight of anything back there many fold... especially on rough road surfaces. I wouldn't put anything more than the bikes back there (which we have on an RV-approved bike rack).

Rob

[TucsonJim]

According to the manufacturer, this product requires a class II receiver hitch (350 pound rating) as a bare minimum, with a class III recommended (500 pound rating). The receiver on the back of a most Grand Design Products is rated for 300# which falls between a class I and class II hitch. The rack you are looking at weighs 70 pounds. This will only allow you 230# before you exceed the rating of the receiver on the back of the trailer. When you add in the dynamic load of bouncing on the highway, you have a very significant chance of receiver failure.

I wouldn't rule out using the rack, but I'd sure have a professional hitch installer take a look at the receiver on your trailer and reinforce it as several other owners have.

Jim

[5 Happy Campers]

I just checked with GD and they did not recommend that I carry a generator on a rear carrier on the 2" receiver. I am looking at a 7000 watt Honda with a fueled weight of 300 lbs plus the weight of the carrier. You may be able to carry the 3000 watt Honda. Good Luck.

[D2Reid]

When I used a hitch rack I always added 2 straps. I would run them from the each corner to the frame. The idea being it reduced the left/right wiggle.

+1 on the severe bounce. I had a motorcycle on a rack on the back of my old 5th wheel. I broke standard straps and went to heavy duty straps. Lots of bounce back there.

I just checked with GD and they did not recommend that I carry a generator on a rear carrier on the 2" receiver. I am looking at a 7000 watt Honda with a fueled weight of 300 lbs plus the weight of the carrier. You may be able to carry the 3000 watt Honda. Good Luck.

I started out with the big Honda generator thinking I could run everything on the 50amp plug. When I tried to hook it up for the first time I learned you get 7k total power distributed over 2 circuits. Max output on a single circuit was 30 amp. The Honda Handi was probably the better option. If you don't plan on needing a/c the Honda 2k works pretty good. I wouldn't put any of these expensive puppies on a rack on the back.

Dallas

[5 Happy Campers]

D2Reid thank you for the information. I am glad to always learn some information from someone with previous experience. The 307MKS that I have on order is being shipped with just a single 15K rear a/c which I would need to have the generator to run when dry camping. I am not sure what the start up amp draw is for the a/c which is why I was considering the 7000IS instead of the 3000IS. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

[D2Reid]

I am not the best person to answer this question so trust but verify.

I pretty much gave up trying to run a/c on a portable generator. The research on my old 5th wheel told me that start up amp pull on my a/c unit was 22 amps, running amps was 12. I could start the fan independently of the compressor which helped not pull the generator down too far. Other things I had to do, be sure refrigerator and water heater were in propane mode. Turn off converter, turn it back on while generator was still running but after a/c was off. All of this had to do with loading the generator.

A word of caution, if you do not have sufficient amperage to start your a/c unit you can damage it.

I looked online, I had targeted the Honda Handi 4000 as adequate. Now I can't find one.

Looking at the 3000 max amps is 23.3, other generator users have touted running tandem Honda 2000 in parallel. I have never done that so don't know enough to a dependable source. Another advantage to running parallel is you don't need to run both for most cases.

You really need to do your own research on the equipment you have. Look up the exact model of a/c unit you have to get amp ratings, look up converter usage, look up exact model of microwave you have, coffee pot, etc. Build a usage chart then go generator shopping.

Or just buy a Momentum with a built in generator.

Dallas

[wjpatter]

I realize this is a dated post but let me ask if anyone has experienced or know of anyone that have experienced a receiver failure. I'm planning to carry my 3000 watt generator in a cargo carrier on the rear. It is about 100#, well below the rated limit. I'm searching the web site as we speak but would be interested in first hand knowledge.