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05-25-2017, 02:17 PM #11
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05-25-2017, 02:18 PM #12
I did hear back from Emily Stahley from Lippert. She advised that the hanger needs to be straightened to prevent tire wear, but that an alignment will not be needed. She wanted to know if I "turned too tightly" which may have caused the problem". Even though I don't believe I did, it seems like an odd question.
Jim
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05-25-2017, 02:20 PM #13
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Go to 2:57 on that video and look at the frame flex just ahead of the front axle!
Curtis, Christine, Cole, and Charlotte
2007 Chevrolet Silverado Duramax LBZ, CCLB
2020 Momentum 351M
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05-25-2017, 03:01 PM #14
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05-25-2017, 03:43 PM #15
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With the video Curtis referenced, to me it looks like a Correct Track kit added to a unit not having it from the factory. With the additional length of the downward brackets on the frame, there is a LOT of sideways deflection on roads that are not too bad. To me, it is scary and looks like there will be metal fatigue and breakage in the near future. I am definitely not an engineer, but I spent the better part of half a century around suspensions and frames. And when they tout the extended spring travel, it would increase the possibility of tire contact with the inner fender.
AKA Steve and Lynne
Storm the Black Lab
Reflection 337 RLS vin 573FR3628E3300393
2008 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab Longbox
6.7 Cummins, 68 RFE transmission
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05-25-2017, 04:37 PM #16
Jim,
If your wet bolts have a shoulder at the end of the threaded section (and the bolts are the right length) torquing the nut against this shoulder should have prevented drawing the hanger in to the spring. I wonder if the bolts were correct for the spring width but too short for the hanger width?
Shims will only work if the bolt head to shoulder distance is exactly the same as hanger width plus two Correct Track plates.
The "did you turn too tightly" question from LCI makes no sense. If this was caused by an external impact/force, both sides of the hanger would be bent in the same direction.
RobCate & Rob
2015 Reflection 303RLS
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05-25-2017, 05:46 PM #17
You're spot on about the shoulder bolts Rob. No way could I put in washers and have the nuts properly seat against the shoulder. My belief is that the hangar is just too wide. And when it's torqued it bends the outer flange. The more I look at this, the inner flange is perpendicular to the frame. I'm going to have to crawl back under and do some more measurement to see if I really need to modify or repair anything before just jumping into it.
Jim
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05-25-2017, 06:02 PM #18
Jim,
I would start with the width of the hanger near the top, plus the two Correct Track plates . . . and compare this to the length of the bolt from head to shoulder. Ideally, the bolt should be a few thousands longer than the hanger+plates, but I expect that it will measure less . . . which is why it is pulling the hanger in.
The next step will be to figure out what to machine or shim to solve this.
Rob
Edit: Just realized that you don't have Correct Track plates . . . so it is a comparison of hanger width to bolt length only.Cate & Rob
2015 Reflection 303RLS
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05-25-2017, 06:21 PM #19
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This thread had made me think about frame stress, it's a few years old and SOB with Correct Track II added.
https://heartlandowners.org/archive/...p/t-48295.html
Photos: https://drive.google.com/folderview?...G8&usp=sharing- Gene
Kim & Gene
2015 Reflection 317RST
2017 Ram 3500 CC LB 4x2 6.7 CTD AISIN 3.73 DRW Auto Level Rear Air, BD3, Prodigy P3, Aux Tank
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05-25-2017, 07:53 PM #20
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