303 Curb Side Slide-out Horizontal Adjustment?

[Stormin' Norm]

Did a search on several related keywords, could not find this topic addressed.

During my first major trip recently, my curb side slide out has developed arcing black rubber streaks on the exterior front wall, and appears to be positioned too far forward. Not exactly sticking yet when operated, but it may be inevitable. The forward end of the dealer-installed slide-out topper is now interfering with the rear arm of the forward-most awning as well. It used to just kiss it, which I could prevent with my long arms while operating awning, but now it rubs more substantially.

I am fairly certain this was caused before the recent trip, by dealer when I had it in for a warranty-covered replacement of torn rear seal on this slide, since after I picked trailer up from them after the work , they said they also adjusted the slide forward, thinking that might have been reason for the original torn seal. (I know it was not- the torn area of seal had been glued on both sides, preventing free movement where there should have been.)

Anyway, have looked at Lippert manual on horizontal slide adjustment, and it sounds both simple- and risky, calling for loosening two pairs of carriage bolts at each end under the slide and pushing the slide back into correct position- or using a “prying device” between slide and frame. I can see the bolts under the slide, and they are definitely skewed forward in the slots they pass through. I need to move it about 0.5-0.75 inches I think.

My question is: has anyone successfully done their own horizontal adjustment on the 303RLS curb slide? If so, could it be pushed by one person, or did it take several? I have no intention to use any type of prying device (board?) as that seems sure to damage the seals or the side of the slide. Also, the Lippert manual is not clear if this should be attempted with the slide in or out – I could get more oompf behind it by pushing while it is closed, since I would not have to reach up to push against the middle of the wall. Greatly prefer trying this myself rather than my dealer, but wanted to check experiences here first.

Thanks!

[Cate&Rob]

Hi Norm,

I have had similar horizontal positioning issues with my 303RLS curb side slide. At the Elkhart Rally a couple of years ago, I discussed this in detail with the GDRV techs who were there to adjust things and make minor repairs. I learned that this slide is very light weight (as slides go) and to keep it as close to the floor as possible, it does not slide on rollers as most slides do, but slides across a plastic rub strip only. This is part of the alignment problem because the plastic to plastic sliding surfaces do not maintain the directional stability that running on rollers does.

The slide topper tension can actually affect alignment as the slide crosses the "balance point" about half way in. My topper end started out clearing the awning arm, then it interfered, then it went back to clearing . . . this continues to change a small amount back and forth depending (I think) on whether the trailer is parked slightly nose low or nose high.

To adjust the slide position, two technicians worked together with one loosening the adjusting bolts and then they ran the slide in and out several times to see-saw the slide in the direction they wanted it to go. They second technician would manually move the alignment a small amount by pushing on the slide end wall when the slide was at the balance point. This appeared relatively easy to do and could be done by one person.

Something to watch out for . . . when this slide reaches the balance point coming in, the slide topper tension causes the slide to tip in and it will rub the floor. We were getting wear marks and the solution provided by GD was "slide out slickers" https://www.lci1.com/slideout-slicker We have to remember to place these on the floor at each end of the slide before bringing it in, but this is better than risking floor damage. We have not had any slide/floor contact since using these. BTW, there are slickers with points on the underside for carpet and different ones with foam strips on the underside for vinyl floor. If you get these, make sure you get the ones without the points !

Rob

[Stormin' Norm]

Thanks again Rob, will give it a try soon.

Saw the earlier thread where the slickers were mentioned, might get a pair of those too. The faux-grain of the flooring material seems to have some built-in cross-streaks in places, so it it is hard to discern any real rub marks yet, but there may be some starting.

Will post back with my results.

[Just Krusen]

I moved a kitchen (curb side) slide on a 376. It needed to go 3/4" forward. Moved the slide in about a foot, loosened the bolts & gave it a push. It took a strong nudge but was easier than I thought it would be. Got it right where we wanted on the first try. Ran it in and out a few times watching closely but it was OK. You need to run the slide in a little to relieve the hydraulic pressure that's holding the slide out against the seals. As long as you get it centered you should be OK.

[TucsonJim]

When I'm doing a horizontal adjustment myself, I take a little different approach. I run the room all the way out. Then I loosen the two bolts on one side. I tap the arm with a hammer in the opposite direction I want the room to go. No more than 1/4" at a time and retighten the bolts. Then I do the same thing on the other arm. I run the room in and out a couple of times and recheck the measurement. If I need more adjustment, I repeat the process until I get it where I want it. I've used this method for 20 years and it works perfectly for me. It's much easier to control the amount of adjustment than trying to push the room back and forth.

Jim

[Just Krusen]

That is a good way to do it Jim. I remember doing that as a final adjustment while making sure the arms were parallel.

[Stormin' Norm]

When I'm doing a horizontal adjustment myself, I take a little different approach. I run the room all the way out. Then I loosen the two bolts on one side. I tap the arm with a hammer in the opposite direction I want the room to go. No more than 1/4" at a time and retighten the bolts. Then I do the same thing on the other arm. I run the room in and out a couple of times and recheck the measurement. If I need more adjustment, I repeat the process until I get it where I want it. I've used this method for 20 years and it works perfectly for me. It's much easier to control the amount of adjustment than trying to push the room back and forth.

Jim

Made the adjustment yesterday using Jim's simplified method, worked like a champ! Thanks much.

[Cate&Rob]

Jim - This sounds like a way better process than how I saw the GDRV techs adjust the slide on my unit. This would be good advice to put in the Forum Library for future reference.

Rob

[TucsonJim]

Rob - That's probably a good idea about the library posting. I need to move one of my rooms about 3/8" before we head out in 10 days. I'll take a couple of photos while I'm doing it and post it to the library. I strained my back yesterday at the gym, so it's going to be a few days before I can crawl under there.

Jim