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  1. #1
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    230RL and Payload - whats doable

    Hello,

    From what little there is on the 230RL it looks like the 1/2 ton towable is going to be one of the items that generates discussion. We looked at one this weekend and really like it and are looking to purchase in Spring 2018. My truck can take it BUT do I have enough spare capacity? My truck is a 2016 Ram 2500 Laramie Longhorn with the tow package. Its a real puller and can pull 17K but the payload is only 2200lbs. The Hitch weight for the 230RL is 1195 so I've got another 1000lbs to play with. In experienced 5th wheelers opinion is this enough? It will just be myself and my wife traveling in the cab of the truck.

    Thanks
    Rgds
    nonrev

  2. #2
    Seasoned Camper raybbj's Avatar
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    1195 lbs is the advertised pin weight based off dry weight. It looks like GD is only calculating using 17%. If you were to have 2000 lbs of cargo in your trailer, water, waste water, propane and "stuff", etc, you could be up to 9000 lbs trailer weight. A more realistic pin weight would be 20% of 9000lbs which equals 1800 lbs pin weight. This only leaves 400 lbs for your wife, hitch, tool box, and other stuff. Only 2200 lbs CC in your truck will be cutting it close in my opinion.

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    My pin weight on our 27RL is actually 400 pounds heavier then what the brochure says.

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    Rolling Along johndeerefarmer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by raybbj View Post
    1195 lbs is the advertised pin weight based off dry weight. It looks like GD is only calculating using 17%. If you were to have 2000 lbs of cargo in your trailer, water, waste water, propane and "stuff", etc, you could be up to 9000 lbs trailer weight. A more realistic pin weight would be 20% of 9000lbs which equals 1800 lbs pin weight. This only leaves 400 lbs for your wife, hitch, tool box, and other stuff. Only 2200 lbs CC in your truck will be cutting it close in my opinion.
    GD weighs each RV coming off the line so they aren't calculating anything. If the math shows 17% then that's what that particular design gives. Items loaded behind the axle would take off of the pin and items ahead add to it. 400 lbs added to the pin as Minnow's weighed would be a lot more realistic number. I would tow that RV with the OP's truck in a heartbeat and not even think about it.
    Donald AKA johndeerefarmer
    2020 Ford F350 Powerstroke diesel
    2017 F150 ecoboost max tow
    2016 Reflection 29RS VIN# 573FR322XG3305717

  5. #5
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    You'll be well under the trucks RAWR, GCVWR. and tow rating. I tow a similar size 5th wheel with a 12 Ram CTD that has 2176 lbs for CCC. I'm over GVWR by 100 lbs. 5er loaded is 9000 lbs with a pin weight of 1800 lbs. wife and I are 290 lbs total. Some gear in the truck. We have truck scales in Oregon that run 24/7 even when closed the digital weight readout still works so we stop off and on to see weights. I have zero issues pulling my 5er. JMO but I'd jump up to one of the non 1/2 ton versions like the 29RS or 303 RLS. Your trucks handicapped only for registration purposes. The 10,000 GVWR is the max before it jumps to a different category for ins or registration in some states. There's really no need for a 3/4 ton otherwise. For a few more $ you can get a 3500.
    With that being said I think your biggest concern will be the overhang height vs the truck bed height. You may want to see how that will workout. You don't want to be towing 4-5" out of level.

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    Thanks for the info,

    Supposedly there should be no problem towing level, The Ram 2500 I have has that auto-leveling system so I know at least the truck bed should be level. I believe I understand what you are saying... that the 5th will not be level, either being too high or to low.... are there adjustments on the hitch that can compensate for that? Hope that isn't a dumb question... I'm a new-bee

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    Rolling Along johndeerefarmer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nonrev321 View Post
    Thanks for the info,

    Supposedly there should be no problem towing level, The Ram 2500 I have has that auto-leveling system so I know at least the truck bed should be level. I believe I understand what you are saying... that the 5th will not be level, either being too high or to low.... are there adjustments on the hitch that can compensate for that? Hope that isn't a dumb question... I'm a new-bee
    The pin has several holes for adjustment and most fiver hitches are adjustable. If you go with the popular Anderson Ultimate Hitch it has three adjustment holes. If you are worried about payload this is the best hitch as it is the lightest available. You can get a rail mounted version or the version that works with the B&W turnover ball gooseneck hitch.
    Donald AKA johndeerefarmer
    2020 Ford F350 Powerstroke diesel
    2017 F150 ecoboost max tow
    2016 Reflection 29RS VIN# 573FR322XG3305717

  8. #8
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    If the new 230 RL has the subframe which raises the overall height of the RV, you'll probably be all right as you'll be able to make any adjustments needed between the pin box and the hitch as both are adjustable. I'd make of the deal that your dealer will set this up for you. It's not terribly difficult to do yourself but let the dealer fuss with it. It's also possible you might need to make any adjustments. You just wont know for sure until you back your truck underneath the 230RL.

    My 27RL (2015 model year) does not have the subframe and I tow a tad nose high with the Anderson in the lowest position and the pin box as hign as it'll go.

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    It would a money saver to just measure the 230 when it's level then check that against your bed rails. Keep in mind that your truck will drop about 2" when loaded up. If you have at least 3" of difference between the 230 over hang and our bed rail height when not hitched then you should be good to go. That way when you do your final adjustments you should have at least 5"+ of bed clearance and the truck will drop 2" and the 230 should be level. 6" of bed clearance is better and you'd only be 1" out of level.
    It doesn't look like the Turning Point pin box has any adjustments so you're only adjustment is on the 5th hitch. JMO but getting some measurements before purchase could save some headaches early on.

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    Good info all around. I looked at the Anderson hitch but I'm not sure of the dynamics of the special 'Pivot" hitch on the 230RL that moves the pivot point back 22 inchs combined with the adapter I would need for the Anderson hitch. Seems to me the traditional pivot point on top of the standard hitch would have to be made fixed since the pivot point is now back on the the 5th wheel hitch arm. If not there will be two pivot points, that seems unstable to me. Am I seeing something wrong with this. See this link for discussion of the Anderson hitch used with a 230RL. Looks like its not doable.

    https://www.mygrandrv.com/fo...ries?styleid=2

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