Installing Propride Hitch on 2670MK

[Dale G]

I am looking for people that have installed the Propride 3P hitch on the 2670MK. I just got it in today and plan on installing it tomorrow so this evening I did some preliminary stuff like taking off the old system and doing some measuring. I noticed a major problem. The 26" measurement on the top of the frame for installing the torsion bar jacks puts it under the LP tank. Even if you go to the max of 27.5" the LP tank frame and cover are still in the way. I can move the LP tank frame forward about 1.5" before the LP cover hits the electric tongue jack. If I do that I might me able to install the torsion jack at the 27.5" mark but the LP cover will still be touching the jack.

I am wondering how everyone else got the jacks installed without them interfering with the LP tank, bracket, and cover.

Thanks,
Dale

[Jerryr]

Here’s how I installed it on my 2800BH. I moved my LP tray forward a bit to allow the jacks to be positioned correctly. I bought some self tapping screws from Home Depot. 2 of the screws that originally held the tray down snapped off when I tried to remove them.

I also had to cut “slots” in LP tray for the u-bolts that hold the cross member under the frame. To cut the “slots”I marked the location of the u-bolts, drilled 1/2” holes on either end of the slots and used a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade to cut the slots.

I also needed to extend the safety chains by adding a few kinks as you can see in the picture.

[Dale G]

Here’s how I installed it on my 2800BH. I moved my LP tray forward a bit to allow the jacks to be positioned correctly. I bought some self tapping screws from Home Depot. 2 of the screws that originally held the tray down snapped off when I tried to remove them.

I also had to cut “slots” in LP tray for the u-bolts that hold the cross member under the frame. To cut the “slots”I marked the location of the u-bolts, drilled 1/2” holes on either end of the slots and used a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade to cut the slots.

I also needed to extend the safety chains by adding a few kinks as you can see in the picture.

Thanks for the information. Were you able to install the jack brackets at the recommended 26" or did you end up having to go to the 27.5"? Even moving the LP bottle bracket as far forward as I can I cannot put the jacks at 26". How far forward did you move the LP bottle bracket? From what I measured it seems I can move it 1.5" before it becomes an issue with the electric tongue jack.
Thanks,
Dale

[Jerryr]

Dale,

I sorry, I can’t answer your questions about exact measurements. I traded in our 2800BH on a Reflection 337 back 9 months ago and I don’t remember. I do remember that it was within the spec. It’s not that critical.

[Dale G]

Dale,

I sorry, I can’t answer your questions about exact measurements. I traded in our 2800BH on a Reflection 337 back 9 months ago and I don’t remember. I do remember that it was within the spec. It’s not that critical.

Thanks, I appreciate the information. I think I will just set it up at the 27.5" and if I have any problems I will call Sean at Propride. He called me directly when I was checking into the hitch and seems to be really dedicated to helping his customers.
Dale

[sande005]

I have already called for you (grin!) - same issue, same trailer. Sean assured me that if the jacks were back a little, there would be no issues with operation. So I did as Dale G did, and juggled the distances so the tanks and tank cover barely fit behind the tongue jack head. ProPride jacks still had to be further back than instructions state, so had a slight angle on the bar running from the jack to the weight bars, but as Sean said - no issues in almost 5,000 miles and about 35 nights of camping.
Note:
1. I just put the propane tray on top of the U-bolts. Needed longer screws, but was even able to use existing slots/holes in the tray.
2. Plan on also having to move the emergency brake box. You'll need to drill a new mounting hole in the frame for it. Get this replacement cord: https://www.amazon.com/Fastway-80-01...reakaway+cable
3. Despite ProPride's guidelines, you will need about 3 new links in the safety chains. The PP instructions make it seem they can be hung pretty close under the hitch. Not true - I bent the forward lip of the head assembly when the chains tightened up going over speed bumps in a campground. No functional damage, but it looks bad. So give them more slack than indicated.
4. Current trailer cord was a good length, so no extension needed there.
5. Get some white or orange outdoor reflective tape. Outline the edges of the receiver box with it. Makes it so much easier to see where your stinger is going when using the backup camera.

The only downside I found to the ProPride was in dropping the trailer off for service/storage. Dealer had me leave the whole stinger assembly, so they could use a receiver to move the trailer, rather than their tractor with a ball. Ditto with my storage lot guy (who insists that he be the only one to move trailers).

Given the too light tongue weight of the 2670MK, even with full water, between the very heavy addition of weight to the front this hitch contributes, and the design, it corrected all of my sway issues.

[Dale G]

I have already called for you (grin!) - same issue, same trailer. Sean assured me that if the jacks were back a little, there would be no issues with operation. So I did as Dale G did, and juggled the distances so the tanks and tank cover barely fit behind the tongue jack head. ProPride jacks still had to be further back than instructions state, so had a slight angle on the bar running from the jack to the weight bars, but as Sean said - no issues in almost 5,000 miles and about 35 nights of camping.
Note:
1. I just put the propane tray on top of the U-bolts. Needed longer screws, but was even able to use existing slots/holes in the tray.
2. Plan on also having to move the emergency brake box. You'll need to drill a new mounting hole in the frame for it. Get this replacement cord: https://www.amazon.com/Fastway-80-01...reakaway+cable
3. Despite ProPride's guidelines, you will need about 3 new links in the safety chains. The PP instructions make it seem they can be hung pretty close under the hitch. Not true - I bent the forward lip of the head assembly when the chains tightened up going over speed bumps in a campground. No functional damage, but it looks bad. So give them more slack than indicated.
4. Current trailer cord was a good length, so no extension needed there.
5. Get some white or orange outdoor reflective tape. Outline the edges of the receiver box with it. Makes it so much easier to see where your stinger is going when using the backup camera.

The only downside I found to the ProPride was in dropping the trailer off for service/storage. Dealer had me leave the whole stinger assembly, so they could use a receiver to move the trailer, rather than their tractor with a ball. Ditto with my storage lot guy (who insists that he be the only one to move trailers).

Given the too light tongue weight of the 2670MK, even with full water, between the very heavy addition of weight to the front this hitch contributes, and the design, it corrected all of my sway issues.

Thanks for all of the great information. I am at the point of putting on the torsion bars. Man are they close to the ground. Do you have an issue with them being so close to the ground? I measured and there is only about 6" of clearance. Also, did you use the center hole for the torsion bar jacks or did you use the bottom hole? My bar hangs so low it is lower than the end of the torsion bar.
Thanks,
Dale

[Dale G]

I have already called for you (grin!) - same issue, same trailer. Sean assured me that if the jacks were back a little, there would be no issues with operation. So I did as Dale G did, and juggled the distances so the tanks and tank cover barely fit behind the tongue jack head. ProPride jacks still had to be further back than instructions state, so had a slight angle on the bar running from the jack to the weight bars, but as Sean said - no issues in almost 5,000 miles and about 35 nights of camping.
Note:
1. I just put the propane tray on top of the U-bolts. Needed longer screws, but was even able to use existing slots/holes in the tray.
2. Plan on also having to move the emergency brake box. You'll need to drill a new mounting hole in the frame for it. Get this replacement cord: https://www.amazon.com/Fastway-80-01...reakaway+cable
3. Despite ProPride's guidelines, you will need about 3 new links in the safety chains. The PP instructions make it seem they can be hung pretty close under the hitch. Not true - I bent the forward lip of the head assembly when the chains tightened up going over speed bumps in a campground. No functional damage, but it looks bad. So give them more slack than indicated.
4. Current trailer cord was a good length, so no extension needed there.
5. Get some white or orange outdoor reflective tape. Outline the edges of the receiver box with it. Makes it so much easier to see where your stinger is going when using the backup camera.

The only downside I found to the ProPride was in dropping the trailer off for service/storage. Dealer had me leave the whole stinger assembly, so they could use a receiver to move the trailer, rather than their tractor with a ball. Ditto with my storage lot guy (who insists that he be the only one to move trailers).

Given the too light tongue weight of the 2670MK, even with full water, between the very heavy addition of weight to the front this hitch contributes, and the design, it corrected all of my sway issues.

I am having problems with hooking the rods from the jacks to the torsion bars. I have the rods in the center hole like the instructions say but the end of the rod is lower than the end of the torsion bar. So I have to raise the jack 4" so I can hook up the torsion bar with the small u bolt to the end of the rod. Did you have this same problem? I had called Sean and his suggestions weren't any help. I was wondering if you could take a picture of you draw bar so I can make sure that is set up right. Sean said to add washers to the tilt bolt in the draw bar but I already have three and it is currently level with the trailer. He also said I could raise the bar to the bottom hole and try that. I was just wondering what you did and if you have this same issue. I was also wondering how high you take the jacks to set the weight on the torsion bars? Do you raise the tongue jack off of the block like the instructions say to do? Sean said not to raise the tongue off the black but to just raise the jacks 7", I was just wondering what worked for you.
Thanks,
Dale

[sande005]

Unfortunately, the trailer is off at storage, and I won't have it for pictures until next week when I winterize it (sigh!) Winter comes early here in Minnesota!
The length of the rods from jacks to bars is not at all critical. You want the bars to be loose and "wiggly" with no weight on the truck, and the jacks near the bottom. Having them be an inch or two off the bottom and being able to loosen a lot more is fine. So, use whatever hole works to get things assembled. For my truck, 7" rise on the jack from where they no longer are loose sounds about right. As long as you have a few more inches of travel in the jacks, you'll be fine. You'll dial it in once everything is all together.
For the draw bar, I only used one washer. My F-150 is older, and has the HD Payload package with the 17" wheels, different suspension, etc. so I'd assume my reciever is a different height and angle than yours.

For setting the final jack height (after everything is assembled): Take the whole draw bar assembly off the truck, and put a piece of masking tape on your front fender right above the center of the tire. Make a mark at a measured height on the tape. Put the draw bar back on, and fully hitch up. Bring your tongue jack up off the ground, putting all the weight of the trailer on the truck. Your torsion bars should still be loose and "wiggly". Go recheck the height your front fender has risen and note how much. Now raise the torsion bar jacks - maybe 4-5 inches (not critical, just so they are the same). Your front fender should have come down some amount. Ford says that you only need to recover 1/2 of what the loaded rise was. So if the fender rose an inch, you want to have it come back down 1/2 inch. Keep tightening the jacks until you get that 50% reduction in fender rise. Done! I put a tape mark on the handle of the breaker bar used for locking the draw bar, and use that to measure my jack height when hitching up - then I don't have to find a tape measure. Of course, if you top out the jacks and still can't get the fender down, then you'll have to use another hole in the rods - but that is very unlikely.

[Dale G]

Unfortunately, the trailer is off at storage, and I won't have it for pictures until next week when I winterize it (sigh!) Winter comes early here in Minnesota!
The length of the rods from jacks to bars is not at all critical. You want the bars to be loose and "wiggly" with no weight on the truck, and the jacks near the bottom. Having them be an inch or two off the bottom and being able to loosen a lot more is fine. So, use whatever hole works to get things assembled. For my truck, 7" rise on the jack from where they no longer are loose sounds about right. As long as you have a few more inches of travel in the jacks, you'll be fine. You'll dial it in once everything is all together.
For the draw bar, I only used one washer. My F-150 is older, and has the HD Payload package with the 17" wheels, different suspension, etc. so I'd assume my reciever is a different height and angle than yours.

For setting the final jack height (after everything is assembled): Take the whole draw bar assembly off the truck, and put a piece of masking tape on your front fender right above the center of the tire. Make a mark at a measured height on the tape. Put the draw bar back on, and fully hitch up. Bring your tongue jack up off the ground, putting all the weight of the trailer on the truck. Your torsion bars should still be loose and "wiggly". Go recheck the height your front fender has risen and note how much. Now raise the torsion bar jacks - maybe 4-5 inches (not critical, just so they are the same). Your front fender should have come down some amount. Ford says that you only need to recover 1/2 of what the loaded rise was. So if the fender rose an inch, you want to have it come back down 1/2 inch. Keep tightening the jacks until you get that 50% reduction in fender rise. Done! I put a tape mark on the handle of the breaker bar used for locking the draw bar, and use that to measure my jack height when hitching up - then I don't have to find a tape measure. Of course, if you top out the jacks and still can't get the fender down, then you'll have to use another hole in the rods - but that is very unlikely.

Thanks, I appreciate the information. I still think I did something wrong because I have to have the jacks up 4" just to hook the torsion bars to the adjustment rods with the small u bolt. I will get back at it tomorrow, maybe the break from it will let me see what I did wrong.
Dale