Bathroom Door Gap

[JCZhome]

Thanks for posting the floorplan. Not a pocket door but a sliding door that just doesn't overlap enough.

A very inexpensive solution may be to just add a nice shower curtain across the bathroom doorway, on the inside of the bathroom. Close the shower curtain across the doorway if you're in the shower.

A bulb seal mounted from top to bottom on the inside of the leading edge of the door may solve the problem. Not going to look great but may be a cheap solution and still leave the full access width of the doorway.

Another solution would be to build out the wall beside the sink another 1 1/4" by using a piece of paneling on both sides with a piece of pine filler however, this would decrease the width of the door access by that 1 1/4" and would not be movable like the bulb seal would.

Just some quick, easy fix suggestions....

[AlaskaJohn]

" could see where with the door on a 2600RB slid "closed" someone entering the trailer may be able to see into the shower through a daylight gap. "

Thank you for articulating my plight. You nailed it on the head. I can't wait till spring in Fairbanks to go and retrieve my camper...bought it and parked it in Missouri. Looking forward to addressing this issue.

[JCZhome]

" could see where with the door on a 2600RB slid "closed" someone entering the trailer may be able to see into the shower through a daylight gap. "

Thank you for articulating my plight. You nailed it on the head. I can't wait till spring in Fairbanks to go and retrieve my camper...bought it and parked it in Missouri. Looking forward to addressing this issue.

You might as well go now. I heard on the news this morning that Anchorage was warmer yesterday than down here in Tex.

[Edgera]

Hey Mark (MarkRixRV) - You mentioned the guide at the bottom of the door. In our model we have 2 of those but they just slide right out. Once we've opened and closed the door a couple of times, the glide comes almost all the way out, making the gap much bigger than it is to begin with. Anyone know if those are supposed to be secured/screwed in? Seems like if it's holding the door pretty flush with the wall then it shouldn't be able to slide out so easily - it should be snug. Was thinking of gluing it in, but that would present a problem if I ever needed to remove the door...

Thanks,
Amy

[jkdresser]

I have a 2600RB. I would suggest getting a nice piece of molding from the home center, stain it with the ebony stain that everybody uses and attach it against the plastic channel covering the doorway framing. There should be enough wood behind there to get it attached securely. It would also act as a door stop for the door instead of that silly screw they have up in the track.

[AlaskaJohn]

I have a 2600RB. I would suggest getting a nice piece of molding from the home center, stain it with the ebony stain that everybody uses and attach it against the plastic channel covering the doorway framing. There should be enough wood behind there to get it attached securely. It would also act as a door stop for the door instead of that silly screw they have up in the track.

Yes, that is where my mind was going too. Another month and my camper is on it's way up to Fairbanks! Can't wait to see it again. I spent all of a weekend with it when I purchased it so looking to reorienting myself with it. Door gap is the first thing to tackle.

[OurNewEra]

This is an old thread but I had this issue in our new Imagine 2970RL. There was about a 1/2" to 3/4" gap between the sliding bathroom door and the vertical edge of the doorway. This is NOT the gap at the bottom of the door. With the sliding bathroom door closed you could actually see into the bathroom.

I was going to install some kind of rubber strip to cover the gap but couldn't find anything I thought would work or look good.

After thinking about it and looking at the door and the top track I figured out that the top track the door rides on was installed to far out. My solution was to adjust the top track.

I removed the two #2 stopper screws from the track. The track was then held on by three philips screws. One at each end and conveniently one in the middle. I slide the door to the middle and removed the two end screws leaving the middle one to serve as the pivot point.
I then moved the left end of the track closer to the wall. Put the two screws back in each end and reinstalled the two #2 stopper screws. PROBLEM SOLVED! NO MORE GAP!

I then added a couple more screws into the track for extra security.

[jleonard]

We also have a gap where the door doesn't close enough. Or the opening is too wide. Or the door stop isn't correct and doesn't allow the door to move far enough. Or the door is too narrow.
I'll have to investigate more and find the root cause.

[chrisopy]

I'm talking about the gap closest to the sink, the side of the door when the door is slid shut. There's an annoying 1" gap where someone could see in the bathroom that drives me crazy. The door overlaps the wall as it should, but I just want that gap tighter, or gone somehow. Bought some weather stripping to attempt a fix, we'll see how it goes.

Pick up a rubber door or shower door sweep. Tack nail along the edge of the door.

[OurNewEra]

I thought of and looked at all of those things. In the end all I had to do, as I posted, was adjust the top track that the door rides on. I moved the door handle side of the door in a bit and it worked like a charm.