No pressure out of the hot water faucet

[TucsonJim]

If you have an Atwood water heater like I suspect, you can see the location of where the check valve is located in the attached photo.



The image shows a hot water heater bypass hose that your unit will not have in that location.

Jim

[JCZhome]

I defer to you Jim......you have years more actual hands on experience at this than I do.

But yes, there could be a partial blockage that's allowing the supply line to fill very slowly (thus, the hot water for a few minutes) but once the line is drained then there's no more hot water until it's turned back off and the supply line slowly fills again.

I might just add, for everybody reading this....to also check the screen where your hose hooks up to your RV and make sure it's always clean as well as the screen to the sacrificial filter at the bib faucet.

[Gold Country Livin']

........And we wait for the OP's answer hopefully since I think we narrowed it down. It's always interesting to try to be a detective from a computer and learn from the original problem as I am intrigued by such. I hope they get back to us. .....guess I have too much time on my hands, need another hobby.

Always appreciate the color photos that Tuscon Jim provides as well as other posters here.

[JCZhome]

I think they went to the liquor store......they'll be back. LOL

[Usnroberts]

Gentlemen, in absence of the OP i would like to hijack this thread.
Same issue. Slow hot water trickle. 2017 grand design reflection. At the check valve i found an interesting bit of corossion which came off easy. As I loosened it I snapped it right off in half. Does anybody know what thread to what thread I need to replace it to reconnect back to the pipe elbow and into the tank.

[Usnroberts]

After a bit of research I would like to add this solution to other people with this search (1500 thread views so far):
My hot water heater is an Atwood GCAA-10E

1. Most RV water heaters use 1/2″ male to male check valves for the out flow. Im going to replace with another PVC piece.
2. Though replacing the pvc with a copper or brass male to male is an upgrade, this would create a metal to metal electrolysis situation and require an anode rod as a sacrificial metal vice your tank. If you have already replaced the nylon drain plug with a copper plug you have already created this situation.

A good reference with pictures:
https://liveworkdream.com/2018/08/01...r-check-valve/