Some questions on 315 RLTS

[love2rvcamp]

Hello everyone,

Went to the RV show here yesterday and looked the 315 RLTS over real good. Spent a lot of time inside, especially since it was raining. Spent time underneath as well.

Few questions for those that have this trailer.

There was a white release valve underneath near the front by the low points. What is this for? We spoke to a couple that had purchased the 315 RLTS a few months ago and he said he didn't know what it was but his would drip water if opened.

I know this is more of a design thing but why would they put the cable/satellite connections that are in the pass thru storage on the door side of the unit? In most cases the cable connection is at the post at the campground and would have made more sense being over at the panel area. Again not a deal breaker but one of the things that made us go hmmmm

I have read the real world hitch weight is higher than the published dry weight (of course), I have read that the weight can be any where from 1400 - 1700 lbs. Is this what most of you are seeing regarding hitch weight? We currently have the 10,000/1000 lb Equalizer setup but will be looking for a beefier setup for this trailer when we purchase. What are you using and why did you select that set up?

And last question, when we were speaking with the couple that had recently purchased the 315 RLTS they said they are having a auto leveling system installed, after market, so they don't have to get out and level it anymore. They said they spoke with GD and would not void the warranty and everything would be fine. It is costing them around $4,000 to have this installed. Spoke with the GD rep that was there and they said that yes you could indeed have an after market auto leveling system added. Do anyone know how this works? I am going to do some research to see what is all involved. I am wondering how they install something that will have the power to lift the trailer to level it. It would have to be hydraulic to have the power I would think and would that involve massive cutting into the trailer. Just curious if anyone has any information or knowledge of this.

We really like the fit and finish of the unit, and of course all the storage inside and out. We would like to purchase one latter part of this year so doing all our research now.

Thanks again,
Michael and Michelle

[BabyBober]

Ok, I don’t have a 315but your question are pretty straight forward.

The white valve is the dump valve for your fresh water tank. The coax connection will actually be on both sides (at least it is on our 5th wheel. Take another look. The side you are talking about is to be able to run an external TV. Hitch weight has to come from others. Yes Lippert makes an aftermarket auto leveler that is electric. It is a take off of the electric auto level on the reflection 5th wheels. If I remember correctly GD looked at putting it on the TT but didn’t for some reason. Here is the info.... https://www.lci1.com/ground-control-tt.

Jim

[jim1521]

I have the 313RLTS. Very similar to the 315RLTS (the 315 is 400 lbs heaver, but 80 lbs lighter on hitch weight).

I am able to keep my hitch weight at right around 1,200 lbs (1,180 lbs my last trip), with my overall gross trailer weight at 9,800 lbs when fully loaded in "travel mode" so that gives me a 12% TW - which I find to be perfect. My hitch is rated at 1,231 lbs per Nissan, but my hitch has 1,400 lb bars. My setup is an EAZ-Lift that my dealer set up. If I had to do it all over again, I'd have gone for something else - most likely an Equalizer.

I have a cargo carrier installed at the rear of the trailer. The 2" hitch is rated for 300 lbs. By adding weight back there, I've been able to manage TW (I also have a Sherline TW scale that I use) to right around +/- 20 lbs.

[Chiefblueman]

I have a 315RLTS. The cable connections are on the street side of the pass through storage, next to the Nautilus panel for the water connection. As Baby Bober said, the coax on the curb side is for connecting a tv, not feeding the trailer. Yes, the white valve is fresh water dump.

I don't use a carrier on the rear of my trailer to offset tongue weight. The trailer has the second A/C in the bedroom (highly recommended). I use the storage that comes with the trailer and I usually travel with about 10 gallons in the fresh water tank to flush the toilet if need be on the road. Loaded for a 2 week trip the tongue weight was a little over 1500lbs. The unloaded hitch weight from the factory is published at 1065lb. Add the weight of the battery and full propane tanks right on the tongue and second A/C ahead of the axles, and you're easily at 1200 lbs before you put anything in the trailer . All the tanks are ahead of the axles and add to tongue weight when carrying liquid. It would be easy to get to 1600 or 1700 lbs.

I use a Blue Ox 2000/20000 lb hitch. It has a 2.5 inch shank and is rated for 2000lb tongue weight. I used the Equalizer 10,000lb hitch on my previous TT, a great hitch. I felt the 1400lb rating for the heaviest Equalizer wouldn't be enough so I went with the Blue Ox. It works like a champ, the 315 tows very nicely.

What are you using for a tow vehicle? This is not a 1/2 ton towable.

[klenger]

I have had 2 Class A motor homes with auto leveling systems. With my 297RSTS, I am thrilled to not have to mess with them anymore. A modest travel trailer is pretty easy to level compared to a long motor home. When I have the trailer in the spot where I want to plant it, I check side-to-side level with a 12" digital level on the floor just inside the entry door. This location is about mid-ship. I have a chart that I can share that tells me how many leveling blocks I need to put under the low side tires. Once I do that, I rotate the level to measure front-to-rear level and level it with the tongue jack. Finally, I drop the stabilizers and I'm good to go.

My experience with the 2 32' Class A motor homes is that on a site that is out of level front-to-rear, it is real easy to exceed the extension of the leveling system because of the long wheel base of a Class A. Then I have to block 2 or 3 of the wheels, add blocks under the jack pads, and attempt to level it. If I am still out of level or out of extension on the jack, I back off the blocks and do it again. In some cases, with a bad site, I simply can't add enough blocks to get it level. This is sometimes aggravated by the forward rake (rear of the motor home higher than the front on level ground) on a site that is high in the back to begin with.

To view the leveling matrix, click on the link to my 297RSTS webpage in my signature (klenger.net), and then click on the Leveling Matrix button. This matrix should work for most travel trailers and 5th wheel trailers because the wheel track is pretty much the same for all recreational trailers. The chart assumes that you are using Lego style blocks where the first blocks ads 1-1/2" of rise and the remaining blocks add 1" each. The chart allows 1 less block on the forward or rear axle to "split the difference" for more granularity. Hope this helps.

[howson]

I don't have a 315, but my wife and I have looked at it multiple times. The only item I can add to this discussion is actually a question: how much does the auto-level system weigh? Anything added to the trailer will reduce your cargo capacity, as the gross vehicle weight of the 315 is 10,995 lbs.

[Cate&Rob]

I would agree with Klenger that you should try manual levelling before spending the money and adding the complexity of auto levelling. There are many discussions on this forum about problems with the auto levelling systems not functioning and also discussion of damaging the rear struts on curbs or road dips while towing.

Klenger - Have you seen the Andersen Levellers? These things are great! No more calculating number of blocks or trial and error. Just back onto them and levelling lift is infinitely adjustable up to about 3" of lift. https://andersenhitches.com/Products...r-leveler.aspx

Rob

[jim1521]

Klenger - Have you seen the Andersen Levellers? These things are great! No more calculating number of blocks or trial and error. Just back onto them and levelling lift is infinitely adjustable up to about 3" of lift. https://andersenhitches.com/Products...r-leveler.aspx

Rob

^^^ These are what I use. ^^^

[J&G garage]

Nearly auto-level.

[TucsonJim]

There are many discussions on this forum about problems with the auto levelling systems not functioning and also discussion of damaging the rear struts on curbs or road dips while towing.

Rob - FYI, the Ground Control TT does not have the rear struts like you do on a FW. So the damage should not be an issue. But it sure is pricey - $2700 on the Lippert website plus installation. Based on your recommendation, I went with the Andersen levelers. But dang it, our first trip with them was out to the Quartzsite rally, and the ground was already level, so I couldn't try them out.

BTW, here's a video on the new Ground Control TT:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g7yScIMPVOY

Jim