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  1. #1
    Site Sponsor sande005's Avatar
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    Brake/Suspension upgrades for a 2670MK?

    Bought ours last spring. At the time, GD was changing over to auto-adjusting brakes. But, no joy. Did not notice until I crawled under and looked at the axle serial numbers late last fall. Nothing in writing, and was not mentioned at the time of order - only much later as the delivery date was approaching as a "surprise" upgrade from the factory. So not much of a leg to stand on to demand something now. So, now thinking about upgrading. Looking for recommendations. While pretty handy, I've never been a big vehicle repair guy - so probably would have to make an investment in additional tools to do the job. I've replaced bearings on a boat trailer several times, but getting into brakes and suspension upgrades on something this big will be new, and perhaps test my limits. Once I know what I want, I will be asking the dealer for a quote - but then will be shocked, and will begin talking myself into doing it on my own.....

    So: install auto-adjusting drums or go to disc brakes? If disc - recommendations as to a source, preferably with good hand holding to get the right retrofit kit, with clear how-to-do-it instructions.
    Ditto on suspension- should I do that? Have seen lots of posts of people going to MorRydes+shackles for various other GD lines. Any info on how to DIY?
    2017 Imagine 2670MK
    2012 F-150 SCrew, Eco, 4x4 6.5 box
    Max. Tow, HD Payload, Airbags, ProPride hitch
    (Previous: Jayco 26.5RLS Fifth, Revolution Pinbox)

  2. #2
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
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    sande005 - If you can replace the bearings on a boat trailer, you can do all the "suspension and brake" work that we discuss on this forum. As far as tools . . . for changing shackle bolts or spring bushings, you need to develop or acquire a means to place the trailer frame on secure stands or blocking so that you can then lift/lower the end of the axle independently from this to align things during assembly/disassembly. There are a number of posts on how to do this. Unfortunately, these are buried way back in earlier threads.

    If you want to change to different brakes, this can be done by lifting one wheel at a time as you would do to service bearings. Once you have the hub and drum removed, cut two wires and remove 5 bolts and you can change to auto adjusting drum brakes. Changing to disc brakes is a little more complicated because you have to install a hydraulic apply system. This is all explained in https://www.mygrandrv.com/fo...tem-Hydraulics stored in the Forum Library section. There is also a writeup on the electrical side of installing disc brakes. One supplier that many of us on this forum have used is Stopyourtrailer with contact info in the attached post. Bill at Stopyourtrailer will walk you through the installation and is always only a phone call away. There is also a lot of experience on this forum to help you out.

    Rob
    Cate & Rob
    2015 Reflection 303RLS

  3. #3
    King Pin
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    Sande005. When it comes to the suspension, I'd recommend replacing the equalizer with a MorRyde CRE3000, and the bolts, shackles and bushings with the MorRyde welt bolt kit.

    I'm attaching a video that shows how to do it. But note two items about the video. It doesn't show the bolts and bushings being installed at the spring ends. Do those first before you install the shackle side and the equalizer. Also, they show pushing the equalizer bolt in from the outside. With the wetbolt, install it from the inside so you can reach it when greasing the fittings.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=joVT34TRfNA&t=6s

    Here's a link to a thread I posted that shows the installation on my Reflection TT:
    https://www.mygrandrv.com/fo...hlight=morryde

    When purchasing parts, make sure you get the right size. The CRE3000 comes in two sizes. One for 35" axle spacing, and one for 33". And the shackles come in two lengths also.

    Jim

  4. #4
    Site Sponsor sande005's Avatar
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    Thanks for the words of encouragement. I do have a couple of jack stands, and a floor jack. Will have to see if they can manage the height of the frame, or not. Thanks also for the links to past conversations. Got another 3 months before temps here get to reasonable working outside weather, but it looks pretty do-able!
    2017 Imagine 2670MK
    2012 F-150 SCrew, Eco, 4x4 6.5 box
    Max. Tow, HD Payload, Airbags, ProPride hitch
    (Previous: Jayco 26.5RLS Fifth, Revolution Pinbox)

  5. #5
    King Pin
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    Regarding your jack stands and floor jack. Several of us have built wooden platforms to give us more stability and reach when jacking up the coach. Cut up a batch of 2x4s 14" long. Lay four of them side by side. Then lay four more perpendicular to those and nail them or screw them together. Keep crisscrossing the 2x4s and securing them until you get to the height you want. I've use these on everything to a pop up trailer to a large solitude and it makes a much more stable platform. I got the idea from Poppysfifthwheel when he did his disc brake install. You cans search for it and find pictures so you can see the platforms.

    Jim

  6. #6
    Seasoned Camper wstcoaster07's Avatar
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    Jim,
    Thanks for the info and video for the modification. I have been reading a lot lately about where people lift their trailers in preps in case I ever need to change a tire. However, the part I keep kicking around in my head is how the LCI book says specifically not to lift from any of the suspension, and the GD book says not to lift from the frame (Imagine trailer)... well, do I just sprout magic powers and lift the trailer without lifting the trailer?
    My current best guess, at least for this modification, is I will lift from the U-bolt utilizing a powerbuilt 3-ton jack, and then I will place 2 jacks (2-ton) under the frame: 1) just forward of the front axle and 2) just behind the rear axle. Then, I have to put a hydraulic jack under each axle to support it in order to take apart the suspension.
    Any major red flags with this concept of operations?

    Some things I can think of:
    -Do I place the support for the axle while doing work under the u bolt? The video online looks like they had it in the middle.
    -Am I fine just lifting one whole side off the ground and leaving the other side resting on the tires (chocked of course)
    -Once lifted, do people ever use stabilizers just for added stability or just the jack stands?
    -I have read to leave the truck connected to the trailer while doing this. Is it necessary? If not, will lifting a side with jacks also raise the tongue slightly?

    Sande,
    Hope this isn't a thread jack, I just figured since you were working this mod too you would benefit from these answers. Maybe I will just let you do it first on your imagine and then take your lessons learned haha.

    Here is another video of a guy doing it in the desert: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9pMA1u9ruMI
    I will probably remove the tires though just to take a little more weight out of the equation. Plus it will give me a chance to inspect the bearings.
    2019 2800BH
    BlueOx Swaypro BXW1500
    2017 Expedition EL XLT w/heavy duty tow package w/ Michelin Defender LTX LT275/65/18

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