Camping when the temps are below freezing

[D2Reid]

I'm new here so be gentle....

Always!

I started this post thinking the Reflection has the Arctic Package so of course it has heated tank pads. But I wasn't familiar with the Reflection, so looked up the current brochures. To my surprise they are not listed. In the Reflection Arctic Package it mentions fully heated underbelly, but not heated tank pads.



Just to compare the nomenclature to my Momentum brochure:



It clearly states 12v heating pads on each holding tank.

Hmmmm!

I guess at this point I am going to have to pass the question over to Reflection owners. It kind of looks like you don't have them. I am also thinking if the entire underbelly is heated you won't need them.

So be gentle with me, I admit my ignorance.

[Cate&Rob]

I'm new here so be gentle... I saw some mention of tank heating pads. Are those automatic, or is there a switch for them somewhere to turn on? I'm assuming they don't really get hot and just keep things at 40 F or similar...

TNriverjet - Just to confirm what Dallas has found . . . Reflections do not have electric heating pads on the tanks. They do have underbelly heating ductwork from the propane furnace (as do all GDRV products) so the important thing to know is that you have to use the propane furnace to warm the tanks.

Rob

[suitcaseisfull]

Just bought my 2020 29rs 5th wheel. Planning on full time living and traveling. Taking stock of a few items to do for winter. Two areas which I think need addressing are in the pass through storage. First is the plastic trays which lay right inside the hatches. A quick fit of foam board snuggled in will help reduce the conduction. The second is keeping heat inside the tank area. The flimsy partition that separates the pass though to the tank area could use beefing up in the insulation area. Thoughts? Any other areas for heat loss? The 2020’s in the reflection line do have the heating pads! I think this is going to make a huge difference!

[Canald]

Do you have double pane windows? If not, I would pre-cut foil insulation to cover the windows.
Purchase/make a heated fresh water hose. If you plan to be in one spot for a while, I would purchase/make a skirt that goes around the bottom.
Once the skirt is installed, place 2 shop lights, with incandescent bulbs, inside the skirted area to help keep that warm. This helps the furnace.
There is some discussing about this topic but run your furnace while going down the road. I have, this helps keep things warm.

[orbiker]

Just bought my 2020 29rs 5th wheel. Planning on full time living and traveling. Taking stock of a few items to do for winter. Two areas which I think need addressing are in the pass through storage. First is the plastic trays which lay right inside the hatches. A quick fit of foam board snuggled in will help reduce the conduction. The second is keeping heat inside the tank area. The flimsy partition that separates the pass though to the tank area could use beefing up in the insulation area. Thoughts? Any other areas for heat loss? The 2020’s in the reflection line do have the heating pads! I think this is going to make a huge difference!

Do you have double pane windows? If not, I would pre-cut foil insulation to cover the windows.
Purchase/make a heated fresh water hose. If you plan to be in one spot for a while, I would purchase/make a skirt that goes around the bottom.
Once the skirt is installed, place 2 shop lights, with incandescent bulbs, inside the skirted area to help keep that warm. This helps the furnace.
There is some discussing about this topic but run your furnace while going down the road. I have, this helps keep things warm.

It all depends on where your travels might take you. Colorado. You will need to batten down the hatches so to speak. Western Oregon; where we live and camp during the winter, a skirt is not necessary. Blocking up the window with the foil insulation will help, but not necessary.

In Oregon and a lot of places where the humidity in the rig gets a bit high, cracking the bathroom roof vent helps a lot. Putting a cover on the roof over the roof vents is a very good idea. We run a small cube heater in the bathroom almost 24 / 7 when camping at the Oregon Coast in the winter. The humidity goes right out the vent and keeps the rigs window fog free.

I sure each area of the USA has it's own little quirks to deal with. KEN

We didn't have heated steps, but we got in and out safely. January 1, 2017 Neskowin RV Resort

[suitcaseisfull]

Yes! I have the full weather package with the double pane windows. Those suggestions have been thought about. My next big purchase is the skirt. I think the bulbs will make more of a difference. One under the tanks (near the axle) then maybe one in the front (under the 5th wheel) I just wanted to close up those cold spots which can transfer heat. As the plastic tub has zero insulated value and the partition will leak a ton.

[D2Reid]

Another area that is often forgotten is the evaporator coils on the refrigerator. When the temps get into the single digit (f) or below the gas has difficulty evaporating and your fridge will cease to work. If you place a incandescent bulb back there it gives just enough heat to keep the evaporation process working.

Don't forget to put sacrificial material under you landing pads. They can freeze to the concrete and you may break a concrete parking pad trying to get them up, that really annoys the landlord.

Have a plan to keep the sewer hose from freezing. Solid is bad because they become brittle. Buried is bad because chopping them out sucks.

[Nuffsaid]

We spent some cold weather time in our Solitude last December for Christmas at our daughter's home in Belgrade, MT. Overnight lows were down to around 0 with highs in the 20's. Everything worked ok, but some things could be better. The gas furnace runs almost nonstop to try and maintain 70 degrees. No wind to speak of. I spray foamed my frame rails and that helped keep heat in the belly, I also closed up the holes for the slide outs to help keep heat in. Checking the inside of the trailer with a inferred thermometer, I found cold spots towards the rear of the trailer, the slide out floors, in the front closet behind the cap and below every single pane window. We put up foil faced bubble wrap and it helped a little, but convection let the cold air follow the foil towards the floor making below the windows very cold. We kept the bedroom cool for sleeping, but the windows next to the bed were like sleeping with the windows open. In two weeks of time, we used two 100 lb bottles of propane! I purchased a diesel fired heater that has an 8kw rating that should equal about 20k btus. It is supposed to run for close to 30 hrs on 2.5 gallons of diesel fuel. I plan to install this heater in the front generator storage area and vent some of the heat into that area that will help heat the front cap area and vent some heat into the storage area and more of the heat into the belly and see what happens. This unit is vented out to the bottom of the trailer so it is safe. I also plan on adding some insulation to the front generator compartment. When driving home to Wyoming from Belgrade, it was a cold day with temps in the single digits, cold air intruded and started freezing the holding tanks, I think the air must get in from the front compartment area, so I want to block the flow of air from there.

[orbiker]

Have a plan to keep the sewer hose from freezing. Solid is bad because they become brittle. Buried is bad because chopping them out sucks.

I have been thinking about this once in a while. The camp ground mgr at a park in Central Oregon (by La Pine) had done everything possible to insulate and heat the sewer hose. It froze after the second week of close to -20F. He had to go get another hose.

I was thinking a Macerator Pump might be the ticket. Pull it out of the warm storage area, pump out the black and gray. Rinse, drain and store for the next time.

[suitcaseisfull]

Good call on the sacrificial layer under the pads. Currently in Canada but will be wintering over in Iowa for work. If you are going to be staying in one place for a long time. Get the adapter from your tank connection to a piece of PVC pipe. Heat tape it and insulate. Turn it on 10-15 mins before and after you dump you tanks. Then come spring. Toss the 8-10ft of pipe and a few elbows. I’ll have to open my fridge cover to see the room I have. Or shouldn’t you just switch to electric to remove that issue?