Solitude 310GK-R Tongue Weight and SRW Towing

[Mark Virginia]

Hi,

I am a new member. I replied to an existing towing post with the following questions. Thought I would also try the Solitude forum. I am looking for real world load weights for a 310GK-R and also if anyone is towing with a SRW truck.

I have A Solitude 310GK-R on order. I am towing with a 2018 F350 Diesel that has a GVWR of 3800 lbs (SIngle Real Wheels with Short Bed and 20” wheels). I thought I had room to spare in terms of load. But I’ve seen estimates for the Solitude tongue weight loaded from 2800 up to 3600 mentioned on this site. 3600 Lbs would put me in an overload situation.

I can handle up to 3200 or so, unless I leave the dog and wife at home, which is not an option. What is a realistic load for the Solitude? If I do the math and assume 23% tongue weight and 14K lb load, that’s a little over 3200 Lbs, which I think I can handle. But the 310 residential package includes two batteries up front, which adds even more to the tongue weight.

I am so concerned now about load that I am thinking about cancelling the Solitude order and going with something lighter. Is anyone towing the 310GK-R with a SRW truck? What is your tongue weight?

I really love the 310....Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

Mark
Northern Virginia

[CoChris]

Hi Mark and welcome to the forums. Use the search function (upper right corner of each page) and you will find lots of information and replies, and of course opinions. Nuffsaif just posted his weights with some of his modifications (genset in pickup bed, etc). He has a 310GK (I think it is the RV refrig) and his 1 ton SRW TV. I will try to post a link https://www.mygrandrv.com/...Weights-with-310GK-and-2017-Silverado-3500-HD-SRW .

I also have a 2018 310GK (RV refrig) and tow with a 2017 F350 SRW. There are many different weight ratings (payload, GVWR, GCWR, max tow rating) that all come into play. Generally the limiter for towing a 5th wheel is the payload rating, which is simply the GVWR - weight of the truck. YOU CAN NOT GO BY THE NUMBER IN THE FORD TOWING GUIDE. Sorry for shouting, but this is a common mistake (and many salesman are happy to push the number). Look at the yellow load sticker on the drivers door jam for your maximum payload and rear axle weight rating. If the 3,800# you listed is YOUR trucks payload rating, you will have to watch what you put in the truck and how you load the trailer, but you should be doable. Mine is 3,253#.

You will generally find the payload is far less than the rear axle weight rating RAWR (which is the rating for the less of springs, axle and tires). In my case the (RAWR - empty weight) on the rear axle is almost 1,000# higher than the payload rating. You have to decide if you want to be below both, exceed one or if you are comfortable exceeding both. I chose the middle. As people will tell you, the only way to know your weights for certain is to run YOUR combination across a scales. That does not help if you do not have the trailer, and to late if you do. I am trying to get my numbers together for my truck and trailer and will post them, but I only have one set of weights empty (but 377# of water + battery + full propane tanks) after picking it up from the dealer. My pin weight was 2,380#. I figure the water (mixture of mostly fresh and a little black and gray) only took about 27# of my pin.

Search, keep asking questions and make your own decision
Good luck and enjoy your new trailer

Chris

[Mark Virginia]

Thanks for the reply Chris. So you’re using axle rating as the primary limiting factor? I know the tires are rated at 3800 lbs each. So they can handle it assuming the load is doubled for two tires. Axle is rated at 6340, so that’s not an issue. So why do you think payload is so low, relatively speaking?

Btw...my truck is on order as well. I know we’re crazy to do both at once. But that’s how it turned out. So I have no choice but to use Ford specs. Have you had any issues towing the 310? Did you go with 20” wheels and which hitch are you using? I’m looking at the PullRite slider. Is the truck squatting much?

Thanks for the feedback,

Mark

[CoChris]

The payload rating is artificial (legal, political, sales, ??? take your guess). The payload rating is the GVWR - the actual truck weight (which includes things like options, fuel, people. For a 2017/2018 F350 the GRWR is 10,000, 11,400 or 11,500# for a 1 ton. 11,500 is the default. If you add the axle (which is the least of the wheel, tire, springs and axle limits), you come up with a higher number. In my case it is 11,500# GVWR vs 13,220# (5,990 + 7,230# AWR). My tires are 18" AT and are rated at 3,640 each, so that is probably the limiter for the RAWR). Axle rating is not specifically listed, but the Dana M275 is good for way over 6,340 or 7,230#.

I have only towed it 4 times. Once from the dealer (~65 miles on the interstate), camping near home last weekend (~10 miles each way all back roads) and to the storage lot (~20 miles mostly interstate). We have some really nasty winds, often cross wind during the tows and the truck and trailer did great. Not concerns about handling, stability, etc.

I have a long bed and went with the Fodr factory 5th wheel prep (puck system). I am using a BW 20k Companion (non-slider) hitch. Truck (as delivered from dealer and loaded with full tank of fresh water last weekend, squatted 3" in the rear (none in the front) and put it almost perfectly level. With the BW hitch set in the middle height (17-3/4"(?) above bed), the trailer to side rail clearance is 6" (min I want) and 5" over tailgate (less than I would like) and sitting 1-1/2" nose high (measuring front and rear of frame). Close, but I would like more rail/tailgate clearance and trailer a little more level. I want to see if it squats much more when everything is loaded up. If not I may consider raising the trailer 1" or possibly lowering the truck 1". Do not want the truck rear to be lower than the front.

Hope this helps

Chris

[Mark Virginia]

One additional item Chris....

I know that “Stability” is the primary factor for not exceeding GVWR with an F350 SRW. That is why a dually has such a higher GVWR, given that it is not axle or tires or suspension. At least that is what I’ve been told. Some people will not exceed GVWR by a single pound. Curious to know how the Solitude tows?

Thanks

Mark

[Mark Virginia]

Chris,

You answered all my questions. Thanks for taking the time.

Mark

[jasonl78]

I really enjoy reading these posts! There is so much more to pulling a trailer than a person thinks. I was very oblivious to a lot of this information before I started reading these forums. I'm totally guilty of thinking that if you bought a 3/4 ton or 1 ton, you be able to pull anything you wanted, especially if you have a diesel. I'm feeling pretty fortunate that I bought a 1 ton. One of the reasons I bought the one ton was because here in MN I only pay $125 for my license tabs. A comparable 3/4 ton would be over $600. Also the fuel economy and ride quality were seemingly negligible. My truck payload sticker says 4,006 lbs. The rear axle weight rating on the sticker is 7,000 lbs. The front axle is 5,500 lbs. My GVWR is 11,400 lbs. I have a Reflection 28BH with an advertised unloaded hitch weight of 1,545 lbs. The camper GVWR is 10,995 lbs. If I use the 21%-23% figure that has been discussed in these forums, I'd probably be over the payload rating of the sticker on a 3/4 ton. I'm well under on my 1 ton and could potentially go with a bigger camper in the future. I don't foresee me doing that anytime soon but I could. I'm just a rookie so staying under the yellow sticker payload gives me that warm, fuzzy feeling. Maybe when I become a seasoned veteran like most folks here, I will know where I can let the numbers slide a bit. But for now, I'm sure glad I have a 1 ton to pull my medium sized fifth wheel.

[ChadandMel]

$600 a year for tags?!? I thought Texas was bad at $80 lol.


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[SouthTX]

The payload rating is artificial (legal, political, sales, ??? take your guess). The payload rating is the GVWR - the actual truck weight (which includes things like options, fuel, people. For a 2017/2018 F350 the GRWR is 10,000, 11,400 or 11,500# for a 1 ton. 11,500 is the default. If you add the axle (which is the least of the wheel, tire, springs and axle limits), you come up with a higher number. In my case it is 11,500# GVWR vs 13,220# (5,990 + 7,230# AWR). My tires are 18" AT and are rated at 3,640 each, so that is probably the limiter for the RAWR). Axle rating is not specifically listed, but the Dana M275 is good for way over 6,340 or 7,230#.

I have only towed it 4 times. Once from the dealer (~65 miles on the interstate), camping near home last weekend (~10 miles each way all back roads) and to the storage lot (~20 miles mostly interstate). We have some really nasty winds, often cross wind during the tows and the truck and trailer did great. Not concerns about handling, stability, etc.

I have a long bed and went with the Fodr factory 5th wheel prep (puck system). I am using a BW 20k Companion (non-slider) hitch. Truck (as delivered from dealer and loaded with full tank of fresh water last weekend, squatted 3" in the rear (none in the front) and put it almost perfectly level. With the BW hitch set in the middle height (17-3/4"(?) above bed), the trailer to side rail clearance is 6" (min I want) and 5" over tailgate (less than I would like) and sitting 1-1/2" nose high (measuring front and rear of frame). Close, but I would like more rail/tailgate clearance and trailer a little more level. I want to see if it squats much more when everything is loaded up. If not I may consider raising the trailer 1" or possibly lowering the truck 1". Do not want the truck rear to be lower than the front.

Hope this helps

Chris

Chris - I fought this same battle recently and ended up lowering the rear end of the truck. Turned out to be relatively simple - especially compared to raising the FW. Here's a thread on it https://www.mygrandrv.com/fo...0+hitch+height

[CoChris]

Mark, I think the four BIG advantages of a dually over SRW is 1) Redundancy (safety in numbers). If one rear tire blows out you still have one tire (at least for a while) to maintain control 2) The rear axle load is divided over 4 tires. In a dually use, tires have a lower load rating, but no where near 1/2, so you still have a lower loading per tire meaning less likely to have a catastrophic failure 3) Duallies have a heavier (stronger) rear axle and springs. Thus a higher payload rating and more margin for a given pin weight 4) I believe they are MORE stable with a side load (wind, corning, etc) with a heavy and/or high payload like the 5er. That being said, for me the biggest drawback to a dually and the reason we went with a SRW was the need to drive (and park) it in town, sightseeing, etc when not towing and the wider hips just make it more difficult. Besides, a dually would not fit in my garage (and DW said no to a bigger garage) and the number 1 reason I went for a SRW is DW hates the looks of a dually. Happy wife ......

There are many people that say you have to have a dually to pull a trailer this size. Just as many or more that say you can pull anything with a SRW and may are successful doing it. It is really a judgment call and what you feel comfortable with. To me it was hard to find good, solid data (vs opinion) but I did. Then I made my decision. I will continually evaluate it and make adjustments as needed.

Jasonl78, The main reason for your higher payload rating is your gas engine vs diesel. I love the diesel for towing, but it uses up about 800# of payload for the same truck. Do not underestimate the value of "warm fuzzies". This is supposed to to fun and relaxed. Staying under the limits helps veteran and rookies alike. You have a very nice combination there with lots of room for future growth if you want.

Chris