User Tag List

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 31
  1. #11
    Setting Up Camp
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    35
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Update:

    Turns out the PT-100 manual I found online, and the physical manual in the box, are both outdated. The old manual says that, for a 12-volt system, you need the solar array to provide a working voltage (Vmp) of no less than 24 volts at the hottest expected ambient temperature for MPPT functionality. My panels have a Vmp of 18 volts and a .37% Vmp temperature coefficient. At 130 degrees Fahrenheit on the roof of the RV, the Vmp of two panels in series would be 32 volts. Still well within the manual's suggested range.

    The new, updated manual has an "operational" range between 24 and 187 volts, but that MPPT functionality requires 60 volts. That means I need 4 of them in series for MPPT functionality. So, I reworked my plan to have two parallel strings of four panels in series. After calling to discuss this with Magnum's technical support, they recommended that I put all 8 in series. Initially, I wanted to avoid series panels as much as possible to minimize the effects of partial shading. But, it turns out that partial shading of one panel in parallel strings can be a huge problem. I found this thread very informative: http://forum.solar-electric.com/disc...tring-voltages.

    Anyway ... I'm now going to wire all eight panels in series. It is the maximum number that I can wire in series without exceeding the voltage ratings in the coldest possible weather here in Utah. The panels I chose have blocking diodes, but no bypass diodes. I think I'll see how it goes for a while. If partial shading seems to be a problem, I'll add bypass diodes to each panel using in-line MC4 diodes.

    Thoughts?

  2. #12
    Setting Up Camp
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    35
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by jbailey View Post
    Flanaganjk,
    In reading up on the batteries, it seems they are not campatible with the Magnum Energy MSH3012M via http://www.lifebluebattery.com/infor...e-battery.html.

    I am not sure if that is the same model, but they seem quite close. I would Validate with the company that the Inverter/Charger is compatible before hooking up. An awesome project! I love my solar and plan to upgrade to Lithium batteries sometime in the future. Good Luck!
    I received an email reply from Starlight this morning that one of the changes in the new EMS system developed for the HC models is a pre-charge circuit. If an extreme inrush current occurs, such as when powering on MSH series inverters, a pre-charge loop will be activated to shunt the current momentarily. I guess the warning still applies to the older SC series batteries.

    LifeBlue hasn't updated the website to include much about the HC batteries, but they are available if you call them.

  3. #13
    Site Sponsor gbkims's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Pearland, TX
    Posts
    1,709
    Mentioned
    15 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Klenger has some excellent drawings he made for his 297RSTS Travel Trailer that might be of help with how 120VAC is wired & distributed.
    http://www.klenger.net/

    Gene
    - Gene

    Kim & Gene
    2015 Reflection 317RST
    2017 Ram 3500 CC LB 4x2 6.7 CTD AISIN 3.73 DRW Auto Level Rear Air, BD3, Prodigy P3, Aux Tank

  4. #14
    Setting Up Camp
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    35
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    By the way ... I beleive LifeBlue is buying these batteries from Shenzhen TopBand Battery. I contacted them directly and they offered to sell me the batteries straight from China, and they even have an iOS app that is virtually identical to LifeBlue's. It was about a month ago, and I only got price quotes on the older "SC" 100-amp discharge model - but I assume they would sell the HC versions as well. For a 200AH battery they wanted $880 and for the 100AH they wanted $500. Customs is an additional $300 and shipping is an additional $200. Obviously, shipping goes up for more batteries, but not linearly. I'm not sure about the customs fees. Either way, this is a pretty good savings off of the normal LifeBlue pricing. Had LifeBlue and Starlight not been so responsive to all of my emails, I definately would have purchased direclty from China. LifeBlue and Starlight's awesome customer service convinced me to pay the extra money. Their technical support and the warranty they offer made it worth it to for me to pay a few hundred dollars extra.

  5. #15
    Setting Up Camp
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    35
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by gbkims View Post
    Klenger has some excellent drawings he made for his 297RSTS Travel Trailer that might be of help with how 120VAC is wired & distributed.
    http://www.klenger.net/

    Gene
    That's fancy - very well thought out.

  6. #16
    Setting Up Camp
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    35
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Well, it took me a lot longer to finish this project than I expected, and it's taken me even longer to get back online and post how it worked out. We are just finishing up a 2-week drive from Salt Lake City, UT > Cannon Beach, OR > Vancouver, Canada > Banff Canada > Helena Montana > Salt Lake City.

    The Solar and Lithium performed superbly. I love the system and flexability it gave us. For example, we camped near Lake Louis in Banff with no hookups and the Solar and Batteries kept all my 120 AC appliances working the whole time.

    I finished things in pieces and have taken it out a few times prior to the long trip. I'll post next about the setup and try and figure out how to get pictures on here as well.

  7. #17
    Setting Up Camp
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    35
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Solar
    (i) 10 x 100-watt AllPower ETFE flexible solar panels connected as two parallel strings with two panels in series in each string
    (ii) Magnum PT-100 MPPT Solar Charge Controller
    (iii) 8-AWG wire throughout with Mc4 connectors (upgrade ready for more panels)
    (iv) 10-amp Mc4 in-line fuses on each paralleled string
    (v) 120 amp Bussman circuit breaker with a manual disconnect between the PT-100 and the batteries
    (vi) 1-AWG wire connecting PT-100 to the batteries.


    Batteries
    (i) 3 x 200AH high-current LiFePo4 Lithium batteries from LiFeBlue - Up to 600 amps of discharge and 300 amps of charging
    (ii) Blue Sea HD on-off battery switch
    (iii) Blue Sea Class T 400-amp Fuse
    (iv)Magnum ME-BMK battery monitor kit with DC shunt
    (v) 12x18 Tank heater with an automatic thermostat on at 45-degrees and off at 68-degrees
    (vi) 10-amp fuse for the tank heater.
    (vii) Strap to hold batteries in place (no box to allow for better ventilation cooling)

    Inverter/Chargers
    (i) 2 Magnum MSH3012 Hybrid inverter chargers capable of a combined 6000 watts
    (ii) 4/0-AWG wire (<5') from batteries to inverters
    (iii) 6/2 NM-B wire to connect each leg of 50-amp shore plug to the inverter (and back to a divided circuit breaker panel with independent neuterals for each leg)

    Interface Controller
    (i) Magnum ME-ARTR controller for all the devices.
    (ii) Magnum ME-ARC as an internal remote and on/off switch for the inverters controls the solar charge controller, the inverter/charger, and the battery monitor.

    Misc. Instal Components
    (i) I screwed the rivets of the panels to the roof using 1.25" stainless steel screws through Butyl Tape, that I then covered with Dicor lap sealant.
    (ii) 8-AWG solar wires will pass a double cable entry port into the built-in chase on the 377MBS that goes from the roof to the storage area.
    (iii) PT-100 solar charge controller has to be mounted vertically, so it will be mounted in the front storage on the wall dividing the front storage from the pass-through storage.
    (iv) Mounted both inverters to the metal floor of the front storage - but I want to make sure I still have room for both of my 3400 watt Champion generators. (UPDATE: Champion Generators were horribly loud and failed to opoerate correctly. I now have a single Honda 2200 for emergency charging and it is great - but almost unnecessary!)
    (v) I used Polaris Multi-Tap connectors to spice into each leg of the 50-amp 6/3 wires running from the RV shore power inlet. I could have added a main panel instead and in hindsight this might have actually been cheaper and cleaner looking. Oh well.
    (vi) The existing circuit breaker panel had two sections of neutral buss connected by a screw and plate. I disconnected the screw and removed the connecting plate. Now I have two entirely seperate panels (neutral is not connected) for each leg of the 50-amp service.

  8. #18
    Setting Up Camp
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    35
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I've posted some "Before Install" pictures in an album if you'd like to take a look. I'll post some post-install photos in another album shortly.

    https://www.mygrandrv.com/fo...hp?albumid=166

  9. #19
    King Pin
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    6,521
    Blog Entries
    10
    Mentioned
    41 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    I really appreciate you coming back to the thread with the updates. Great job on the project and documenting it for all of us to see. I know you talked about possibly adding bypass diodes in an earlier post. Have you run into any partial shading and has it been an issue?

    Jim

  10. #20
    Setting Up Camp
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    35
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I purchased all of the diodes and have the MC4 wires and connectors. Unfortunately, I couldn't find diodes wired within MC4 connectors in a reverse polarity orientation. I'll have to unsolder and resolder all 10 of them. I plan to get that done sometime over the winter. Then, I'll pick a sunny day (1) measure the current with all panels in the sun; (2) create some artificial "partial shade" scenarios; (3) measure the current in those scenarios; (4) add my diodes; (5) measure the current in the same artificial partial shade scenarios; and (6) measure the current in the full sun.

    This should give me a good idea of any lossess during normal, sunny operation as well as some theoretical benefits during a few partial shade scenarios. I haven't noticed lots of partial shade scenarios during 30+ nights of camping in
    western states this year. Either I'm in full sun, or all shaddy. Not a lot of in'm worried that this will be a lot of work and a waste of time.

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

DISCLAIMER:This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Grand Design RV, LLC or any of its affiliates. This is an independent site.