Running wire from switch panel to basement on 337

[Dopperud]

I am installing an inverter on my 337 and am asking advice on running wire from the inverter to the control panel in the kitchen. I am sure someone has done this and would love to know how so I do not need to reinvent the wheel.

Thanks

[gbkims]

I've run cables for converter, inverter, battery monitor, from the front compartment to the area with the slide/light switches that's near the entry door.
Edit: I see the 337 panels are more toward center, so basement cable entry/exit probably shifted too.

Did it on the right hand/curb side.
Dropped the edge of the coroplast, used the existing holes in the back wall of front compartment on curb side, then back along the frame & on top of the reflective wrap so I could come up out of the existing basement hole where most existing wires use in the basement.
Ran the cables to just past the black tank and then up to the hole in the basement floor.
Once in the basement can get to back side of the panel.
Used fiberglass fish/pull rods & fish tape along with just feeding the cables by hand.

Don't know if I ran my cables to where you want to.

Gene

[Retread68]

The wall behind the toilet had to be removed before I could run additional wire from the basement to the control panel in my 337. There are so many wires tied together fishing a wire through was impossible due to the cluster being next to the vent stacks that are inside the wall also. If you are careful removing the trim, taking the wall down is no problem at all.

My job included installing a switch in the panel, a wire run into the kitchen island for LED lights under the front lip of the island, and a wire run to the breaker box for installation of an additional fused circuit to the switch/dimmer. After getting the wall down in the bathroom, the entire job took less time than the 3 hrs trying to fish wire. Yeah - I'm slow and really hate to give up on an idea.

[Annie & Tom]

The wall behind the toilet had to be removed before I could run additional wire from the basement to the control panel in my 337. There are so many wires tied together fishing a wire through was impossible due to the cluster being next to the vent stacks that are inside the wall also. If you are careful removing the trim, taking the wall down is no problem at all.

My job included installing a switch in the panel, a wire run into the kitchen island for LED lights under the front lip of the island, and a wire run to the breaker box for installation of an additional fused circuit to the switch/dimmer. After getting the wall down in the bathroom, the entire job took less time than the 3 hrs trying to fish wire. Yeah - I'm slow and really hate to give up on an idea.

I am wanting to add LED lights around the island with a switch in the control panel as you previously noted. Would you care to share any information as to how you completed this mod.

Thanks,

[Retread68]

Annie & Tom - sorry it took a while to respond. I have been trout fishing without wifi. For the installation of the LED lights under kitchen island top, I only put them under the front overhang. It is a fairly simple project. Here is how I approached it (after trying to fish wires that proved to be a tremendous waste of time):

1. Remove wall behind toilet in bathroom (Reflection 337) for access to wire routing area.

2. Remove control switch panel. (Bezel will pop loose with careful prying using a flat blade. It is held on with 6 studs mated to control panel or is it 8?!)

3. Remove breaker box. *** Disconnect 50 amp service to RV and disconnect battery prior to removing breaker box ***

4. Drop coroplast on curb side between tires and front right corner / or just enough to get an arm in the area.

5. Cut hole in board left of the switch panel for installation of switch. I used this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfit-RV-L...53.m1438.l2649

(Actually I installed 2 switches one on top of the other. The top one is for the OEM ceiling lights and the bottom one is for the counter LED strip.)

6. Using 12/2 wire I fed it into the hole under the kitchen sink where other wires go into the sub-basement area. (The counter top is secured to 1"x 1 1/2" wood strips. There was a space between the wood strips toward the front so I used that space to feed the 12/2 wire through as the "termination point" where it connects to the LED light strip.)

7. From outside I used a hook to catch the 12/2 wire fed down into the sub-basement, pulled wire toward the front and fed it up into the bathroom wall through the hole that other OEM wires are routed through, then pulled enough wire to reach the switch location.

8. Pulled new 12/2 wire from the breaker box location into the basement utility service area (behind the wall) via same routing as OE0M wires, fed it upward into the switch panel area with the cluster of OEM wires and routed it to the switch.

9. Now for the fun part. Solder the positive wire to an empty 12 volt fuse post and secure the negative wire to an empty place on the neutral buss. (white wires)

10. Solder corresponding + in/out and - in/out wires together at the switch and cover with shrink sleeve. (wire nuts can be used vs soldering)

11. Solder corresponding + /- 12/2 wire to corresponding + / - leads on LED light strip.

12. Stick LED light strip to underside of counter top, secure new switch to board, reinstall switch plate & bezel, reinstall breaker box, reinstall bathroom wall & coroplast, install a new 15 amp fuse in appropriate holder, reconnect battery & 50 amp service, and use "natural" wood putty to cover staple/brad indents.

That's all there is to it. A 2 hr project if ya have all the parts before ya start. Hope this helps.

Rich K

[Indy Tim]

The wall behind the toilet had to be removed before I could run additional wire from the basement to the control panel in my 337. There are so many wires tied together fishing a wire through was impossible due to the cluster being next to the vent stacks that are inside the wall also. If you are careful removing the trim, taking the wall down is no problem at all.

My job included installing a switch in the panel, a wire run into the kitchen island for LED lights under the front lip of the island, and a wire run to the breaker box for installation of an additional fused circuit to the switch/dimmer. After getting the wall down in the bathroom, the entire job took less time than the 3 hrs trying to fish wire. Yeah - I'm slow and really hate to give up on an idea.

Is the bathroom wall trim stapled? Is the wall board glued to any studs? Thanks.

Tim

[Retread68]

Tim,
The bathroom wall trim is installed with brad nails (or at least mine was). The wall panel is not glued to any studs. If your careful everything will come out easily.

Rich

[traveldawg]

Not sure which wire you want to run. But I'll assume it is for a remote panel.

On my rig I removed the basement walls for access to where all the wires lead up to the panel. There are only 2 or 3 1" or maybe 1.25" holes through the floor and into the wall cavity leading up to the control panel. You are going to have to wiggle a bit and maybe use some mirror or a scope camera to see them. I've done this on other brand RVs too.

I can't remember if I fished with a traditional metal fish tape or a fiberglass rod system. But I ran it up from the basement into the cavity behind the main control panel. Once I got that done I pulled some fish tape (2 or 3 of them) for pulling wires. And over time I run another wire that way I always pull another fish tape (you can use string) so I always have a few in there for whatever I do next.

If you are trying to get someplace else, like maybe from the front battery compartment to behind the basement wall and to the control panel I wouldn't bother trying to run it under the floor. I ran mine along the top of the storage area from the front battery/generator compartment to the area behind the basement wall.

I hope this helps.

I am installing an inverter on my 337 and am asking advice on running wire from the inverter to the control panel in the kitchen. I am sure someone has done this and would love to know how so I do not need to reinvent the wheel.

Thanks

[boyscout]

I am installing an inverter on my 337 and am asking advice on running wire from the inverter to the control panel in the kitchen. I am sure someone has done this and would love to know how so I do not need to reinvent the wheel. Thanks

Our Solitude 310GK has a very similar floorplan to the 337. Our control cabinet is on the side of the hutch just inside the door. Is that like yours?

Similar to @Retread68 report in post #3 , I've twice tried to get wire up (or down) between the basement and the control cabinet. I'm not inexperienced at running wire - installed wired alarm systems in two of our houses and wired networks in all of them and I have proper tools for it. However the trailer beat me both times. The holes through which GD has run wires between basement and controls are completely-stuffed in our trailer, and someone much smaller and more agile than I am would be needed to make new holes there.

So I'm using an alternate location for our battery monitor system and inverter control. It's just above our breaker panel, which is behind the lower right-hand door of the hutch/cabinet. Behind the door and just above the breaker panel is a blank bit of cabinetry about 5" tall and the width of the cabinet... loads of room for controls and monitors. Remove the drawer just above it and I can see a whole bunch of open space behind the breaker panel and gaping holes into the basement utility area. Easy peasy.

Good luck with your project.