Underbelly cover

[Paul & Deb]

You can very easily add some cross bracing. Just get some angle aluminum and cut them for the correct length to attach from one frame to the other. Use self tapping screws to attach them to each frame rail. The aluminum will need to be large enough to provide support. Some people actually use angle iron but on my last trailer I used aluminum and it was enough to hold the sagging belly up but I don't think it would be strong enough to hold up a tank. You need the angle material because you are only fastening it to the frame and not any cross members since you don't know where they are. This works great for just holding the belly Coroplast up if it bothers you.

[KeithS]

Attachment 5255Attachment 5256Attachment 5257
This is what's above that cover. There are no locations to attach more screws. Some of the sag is due to wires hanging down (I fastened them up), some is from the insulating sheeting bunching (I straightened that). After I put it all back there was less sag, and nothing pushing on it; however I did end up putting an aluminum L-bracket support across, from rail to rail, and now it's well supported.

Ben

I am having a hard time understanding what I'm seeing. Does the long dimension of the tanks go from side to side or along the length of the RV?

[Paul & Deb]

I am having a hard time understanding what I'm seeing. Does the long dimension of the tanks go from side to side or along the length of the RV?

The tanks in the photos run in line with the trailer, front to back.

[mbaker]

They run in line with the trailer, front to back.

Well the black and grey run front to back, but the galley runs side to side and is behind the sewer pipe.

Ben

[KeithS]

Thanks. I think I will do the angle iron.

[Joeyp59]

Attachment 5255Attachment 5256Attachment 5257
This is what's above that cover. There are no locations to attach more screws. Some of the sag is due to wires hanging down (I fastened them up), some is from the insulating sheeting bunching (I straightened that). After I put it all back there was less sag, and nothing pushing on it; however I did end up putting an aluminum L-bracket support across, from rail to rail, and now it's well supported.

Ben

Thanks for sharing the photo's.

[khughes02]

I also fixed the rust. This was all when I added SeeLevel gauges.

Ben

Hey Ben, Curious how the SeeLevel gauges are working out. I've been considering them, especially for the black tank.

I started to take my underbelly cover off just to look around but decided that was way too much work for only a recon but have been thinking of adding the gauges and possibly adding insulation around the plumbing.

[mbaker]

Hey Ben, Curious how the SeeLevel gauges are working out. I've been considering them, especially for the black tank.

I started to take my underbelly cover off just to look around but decided that was way too much work for only a recon but have been thinking of adding the gauges and possibly adding insulation around the plumbing.

Hi Tobi and Kevin.

These gauges are great.

Last summer my brother rented a Cruise America RV and I accompanied him on a two week camping trip; it, of course, had the idiot lights. That reminded me of how good these gauges are and how absolutely useless the idiot lights are.

If my first experience in an RV had been that one, I never would have bought my own, probably would have gone back to a tent!

Ben

[TNFSolitude]

Assuming this is the same arrangement for my Solitude 369RL; is the black tank closest to the discharge opening or farther back?

[Canyonlight]

Assuming this is the same arrangement for my Solitude 369RL; is the black tank closest to the discharge opening or farther back?

Tom, if the Solitude 369 tanks are the same as Reflection (303/293/337/ maybe some others too) and I think they are as I recall in other posts over the years, the BR sink/tub is closest to discharge (street side tank running front to rear) with black tank curb side running front to rear, and kitchen mounted to the rear of these two tanks running street to curb side.

Dan