User Tag List

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 38
  1. #11
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    8,880
    Mentioned
    85 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by minnow101 View Post
    I assume you’ll have to drop the cloroplast to access the gate valves in order to grease them ?
    Hi minnow101 - Dropping the coroplast would be necessary unless the zerk fitting were on extended lines . . . I considered this. But, since I am reworking all this area anyway . . . I decided that the area where the gate valves/tank sensors/plumbing are located should really have much easier "service access". I am also working an opening panel in the coroplast, into the renovation plan .

    Rob
    Cate & Rob
    2015 Reflection 303RLS

  2. #12
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    8,880
    Mentioned
    85 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by bertschb View Post
    Very curious to see how this works for you Rob. My valves don't stick but they are not easy to operate and I cringe each time I use them. Just waiting for a cable or handle to snap. Thanks for sharing your idea and keeping us updated.
    Brian - The instructions that come with the new Valterra cables are very specific about recommended and non-recommended cable routing and fastening. The OE cable routing does not look much like the "recommended" instructions . It sounds like your cables operate very much like my OE ones that eventually got to the point where I could not close the valves all the way. I am hoping that well lubricated valves and following the manufacturer's cable routing instructions will solve this.

    Rob
    Cate & Rob
    2015 Reflection 303RLS

  3. #13
    Big Traveler
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    1,099
    Mentioned
    8 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Rob,

    The material looks like ABS cuttings from some component in the waste system. There is a waterproof plumber lubricant for faucets but I'm not sure how this could be applied repeatedly to the waste valves.
    MidwestCamper

    Jim & Dawn
    Near Milford, Michigan
    2017 Imagine 2600RB
    2015 GMC Sierra 1500 Double Cab 4x4

  4. #14
    Big Traveler
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    1,099
    Mentioned
    8 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Cate&Rob View Post
    With reference to the comments & plan in my first post on this thread, I have experimented with and installed zerk grease fittings on my new waste gate valves. This was a fairly straight forward procedure and now gives me the ability to inject grease into the cavity that the gate pulls back into. I am still debating on what kind of grease should be used. I tried one prototype with bearing grease and one with white lithium grease. (I think the bearing grease is a little smoother) I don't think either grease will attack the neoprene/rubber seals, but if I could find the silicone grease used in plumbing faucets and valves, in grease gun quantity . . . I would prefer this.

    Rob
    Rob,
    There are a variety of food grade lubricants out there that would not be petroleum based and may work well to not cause issues with the rubber components in the gate valves.
    One Example: Food Grade Grease
    Lubriplate L0231-098 FGL Series
    MidwestCamper

    Jim & Dawn
    Near Milford, Michigan
    2017 Imagine 2600RB
    2015 GMC Sierra 1500 Double Cab 4x4

  5. #15
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    8,880
    Mentioned
    85 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by MidwestCamper View Post
    Rob,
    There are a variety of food grade lubricants out there that would not be petroleum based and may work well to not cause issues with the rubber components in the gate valves.
    One Example: Food Grade Grease
    Lubriplate L0231-098 FGL Series
    MidwestCamper - Good advice on the food grade lubriplate . . . I will investigate this further.

    Thanks
    Rob
    Cate & Rob
    2015 Reflection 303RLS

  6. #16
    Seasoned Camper
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Mead, Colorado
    Posts
    198
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I replaced my valves last year. Rerouting your cables will solve the valve problems. If yours were like mine you’ll see how the cables all have too tight of a curve. I placed a angle iron across the frame under the black and grey tank and cut the underbelly. I then put a flange on the cut end to allow it to bolt to the angle iron. Three bolts can be removed to open the area up under the valve area. I still have to remove the steel propane line for complete access.
    Jerry & Jeanine
    2016 Ram 3500 MegaCab Diesel
    2014 Reflection 293RES (sold)
    2020 Reflection 303RLS

  7. #17
    Site Team traveldawg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Florida Space Coast
    Posts
    3,853
    Blog Entries
    1
    Mentioned
    94 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Cate&Rob View Post
    With reference to the comments & plan in my first post on this thread, I have experimented with and installed zerk grease fittings on my new waste gate valves. This was a fairly straight forward procedure and now gives me the ability to inject grease into the cavity that the gate pulls back into. I am still debating on what kind of grease should be used. I tried one prototype with bearing grease and one with white lithium grease. (I think the bearing grease is a little smoother) I don't think either grease will attack the neoprene/rubber seals, but if I could find the silicone grease used in plumbing faucets and valves, in grease gun quantity . . . I would prefer this.

    Rob
    Rob,
    Do you have any photos of your drain plumbing? I've figured out that my tanks don't drain so well if level; I need to lean the RV to the drain side a good 2" just to clear the pipes after shutting off the valves.

    While I'm asking.... it seems lots of people "drop the coroplast" (or underbelly covering or whatever). Is it a big deal? Did you cut into yours or drop it from one side when you did you mod?
    Larry KE4DMG
    2022 F-350 KRU SRW LB - Airlift 5000+, ForScan, 37 RDS Aux Tank,
    2019 310GK-R - Sailuns; MorRyde IS; Disc Brakes; 20K Reese Goosebox
    Search kalakamods for my mods


  8. #18
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    8,880
    Mentioned
    85 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by traveldawg View Post
    Rob,
    Do you have any photos of your drain plumbing? I've figured out that my tanks don't drain so well if level; I need to lean the RV to the drain side a good 2" just to clear the pipes after shutting off the valves.

    While I'm asking.... it seems lots of people "drop the coroplast" (or underbelly covering or whatever). Is it a big deal? Did you cut into yours or drop it from one side when you did you mod?
    Hi traveldawg - I am in the process of creating an opening panel in the coroplast across where the gate valves, cables, sensor wiring, underbelly heating ducts, etc live. It seems to me that easy access to things that need service is something that should be there. The most common way to get at these things is to undo the coroplast from the front and drop it to the ground as far back as the axles. A PITA (in my opinion).

    The attached pictures will give you an idea of the drain pipe routing (and the rat's nets of wiring under there) The second picture is where I have cleaned up the wring to hold it out of the way. This is a Reflection 303RLS . . . so I am not sure how similar your drain plumbing will be, but the center 3" pipe is almost horizontal until the last drop down to the drain connection. Something else to consider is that the gate valves are in the end/side of each tank. The design of the gate valve means that there will always be about 1/2" of liquid in the bottom of each tank that will not come out of a level tank. Tipping the RV to the street side to drain the cross pipe will actually retain more fluid in the tanks. If your gate valves do not seal completely (which was my problem) The sloshing of this remaining liquid while driving will put this liquid past the leaking gate valve and into the drain pipe, even if you waited for it to drip dry completely at the last dump.

    Rob
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_2558.jpg   IMG_2569.jpg  
    Cate & Rob
    2015 Reflection 303RLS

  9. #19
    Site Sponsor gbkims's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Pearland, TX
    Posts
    1,709
    Mentioned
    15 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Rob,
    Your 2nd photo, that's what we wish we'd see when we look in the underbelly.

    Gene
    - Gene

    Kim & Gene
    2015 Reflection 317RST
    2017 Ram 3500 CC LB 4x2 6.7 CTD AISIN 3.73 DRW Auto Level Rear Air, BD3, Prodigy P3, Aux Tank

  10. #20
    Seasoned Camper
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    347
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Rob,
    I see you cut away the CloraPlas.(Spelling ??) What is your plan on covering that area back up?

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

DISCLAIMER:This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Grand Design RV, LLC or any of its affiliates. This is an independent site.