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  1. #1
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
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    Waste Gate Valves

    Since I am in the middle of a complete water system rebuild, the gate valves on the waste tanks could not escape my attention . Since new, we have had seepage past the grey and black gate valves. We have handled this with the add-on gate valve at the connection point.

    I am replacing all three gate valves as part of this rebuild.

    The OE cable routing does not come even close to the Valterra requirements (as reported a while ago by 2Hams). I'm working on improving this. More to follow.

    One gate valve could not close because some kind of twine was jammed in the slide. (See picture) Another could not close because the slide was filled with ABS cement (no picture).

    Lubricating these valves seems to be a problem. I cut one apart to see what was inside. The gate moves back into a closed space where the seals wipe off any lubrication poured into the tank. I'm thinking that if this space were filled with grease, the gate would always be well lubricated. What about a zerk fitting in the lower corner to keep this gate valve bathed in grease??

    Well . . . that's my current plan . . . more details to follow .

    Rob
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_2577.jpg   IMG_2578.jpg  
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  2. #2
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    Rob, that "twine" looks like plastic shavings from the cut out in the waste tank.

    I have never cared for the gate waste valves that work off a cable. The darn valves are picky enough on their own accord much less introducing a 2'+ cable that twists and winds it way through the basement and undercarriage to the gate valve.

    It's probably not possible considering where the the gate valves are located on the individual tanks, but if I could and remove the darn cables and just use the pull levers to open and close the gate. But that would probably require crawling around on the underside of the RV to reach the handle.
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  3. #3
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by minnow101 View Post
    Rob, that "twine" looks like plastic shavings from the cut out in the waste tank.

    I have never cared for the gate waste valves that work off a cable. The darn valves are picky enough on their own accord much less introducing a 2'+ cable that twists and winds it way through the basement and undercarriage to the gate valve.

    It's probably not possible considering where the the gate valves are located on the individual tanks, but if I could and remove the darn cables and just use the pull levers to open and close the gate. But that would probably require crawling around on the underside of the RV to reach the handle.
    Have the same thought. has to better way.

  4. #4
    Setting Up Camp rfinley's Avatar
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  5. #5
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
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    I seriously thought about going to the electric gate valves. There are a couple of different manufacturers. The problem is that there is no “feel” to that system. No way to know if the valve is binding or not closing smoothly. I am hoping to find a cable routing and a valve lubrication plan that will make the manual cable valves the right choice. The experimenting that I have done so far indicates that there is a lot of room for improvement on the cable routing.

    Rob
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  6. #6
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by minnow101 View Post
    Rob, that "twine" looks like plastic shavings from the cut out in the waste tank.
    minnow101 - You are right! What I thought was a piece of twine preventing the gate from closing is actually a continuous strip of what is probably tank wall material. Like they cut the hole for either the fill or vent pipes with a hole saw that had one tooth . This piece of debris has likely been caught there since the trailer was new . . . nearly four years!

    Rob
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  7. #7
    Big Traveler Keebler's Avatar
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    Watching this with great interest. During my PDI, I flagged that all three (2 Grey, 1 Black) valves were totally frozen. This delayed my delivery by over two weeks as I waited for the dealer to replace them all. Here I am a year later and I have one grey valve that is again totally frozen. Yes, mine are the type that use a cable.
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  8. #8
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
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    Gate Valve Lubrication

    With reference to the comments & plan in my first post on this thread, I have experimented with and installed zerk grease fittings on my new waste gate valves. This was a fairly straight forward procedure and now gives me the ability to inject grease into the cavity that the gate pulls back into. I am still debating on what kind of grease should be used. I tried one prototype with bearing grease and one with white lithium grease. (I think the bearing grease is a little smoother) I don't think either grease will attack the neoprene/rubber seals, but if I could find the silicone grease used in plumbing faucets and valves, in grease gun quantity . . . I would prefer this.

    Rob
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  9. #9
    Long Hauler bertschb's Avatar
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    Very curious to see how this works for you Rob. My valves don't stick but they are not easy to operate and I cringe each time I use them. Just waiting for a cable or handle to snap. Thanks for sharing your idea and keeping us updated.
    Brian & Kellie
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  10. #10
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    I assume you’ll have to drop the cloroplast to access the gate valves in order to grease them ?
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