Waste Gate Valves

[minnow101]

Rob, being somewhat OCD, that "before" picture wants me to walk out to my 27RL, drop the cloroplast and organize my wiring as well. Your a bad influence on me.

[Cate&Rob]

Rob,
I see you cut away the CloraPlas.(Spelling ??) What is your plan on covering that area back up?

Hi Steve - This got a little more "complicated" than it needed to be . . . which seems to be the way with most of my projects . The removed section of coroplast is 36" front to back x the full width. Perhaps a little more than it needs to be, but I wanted unhindered access to all the gate valves. I have fabricated a frame that will fit this space, have fixed panels on each side (so I don't have to wrestle with the fit of the coroplast and spray foam around the exit pipe) and will have two hinged drop open doors for easy access when required. Part of the plan is also additional rigid foam insulation under all the tanks and the valve area. I would like to have electric heat in this area, so I don't have to depend on running the propane furnace to keep the tanks and plumbing warm . . . still thinking on this part of the plan. More pictures to follow when I get this mod finished!

Rob

[Canyonlight]

Hi Steve - This got a little more "complicated" than it needed to be . . . which seems to be the way with most of my projects . The removed section of coroplast is 36" front to back x the full width. Perhaps a little more than it needs to be, but I wanted unhindered access to all the gate valves. I have fabricated a frame that will fit this space, have fixed panels on each side (so I don't have to wrestle with the fit of the coroplast and spray foam around the exit pipe) and will have two hinged drop open doors for easy access when required. Part of the plan is also additional rigid foam insulation under all the tanks and the valve area. I would like to have electric heat in this area, so I don't have to depend on running the propane furnace to keep the tanks and plumbing warm . . . still thinking on this part of the plan. More pictures to follow when I get this mod finished!

Rob

Rob - I think some plexiglass covering colored strobe lights, rotating disco ball, and a sound system that will play ocean waves sounds in stereo if a leak develops anywhere would be just smoking hot ! Reinstalling the coroplast with hinges is so yesterday, Rob !

Dan

[Superduty]

Thanks Rob. You know, we are all following your “re-engineering projects”.
This though, is one I have on my list (gate valves). The Reflections look nice not having handles, and pipes underneath, but if you have problems, it presents extra work, etc.

Noticed my cloroplast, bows in the center with all the wires, etc. hanging down. I’m running’s 3 aluminum braces across the frame to help hold it up.

[traveldawg]

I replaced my valves last year. Rerouting your cables will solve the valve problems. If yours were like mine you’ll see how the cables all have too tight of a curve. I placed a angle iron across the frame under the black and grey tank and cut the underbelly. I then put a flange on the cut end to allow it to bolt to the angle iron. Three bolts can be removed to open the area up under the valve area. I still have to remove the steel propane line for complete access.

Any chance you have some Photos you can post??

[traveldawg]

Hi traveldawg - I am in the process of creating an opening panel in the coroplast across where the gate valves, cables, sensor wiring, underbelly heating ducts, etc live. It seems to me that easy access to things that need service is something that should be there. The most common way to get at these things is to undo the coroplast from the front and drop it to the ground as far back as the axles. A PITA (in my opinion).

The attached pictures will give you an idea of the drain pipe routing (and the rat's nets of wiring under there) The second picture is where I have cleaned up the wring to hold it out of the way. This is a Reflection 303RLS . . . so I am not sure how similar your drain plumbing will be, but the center 3" pipe is almost horizontal until the last drop down to the drain connection. Something else to consider is that the gate valves are in the end/side of each tank. The design of the gate valve means that there will always be about 1/2" of liquid in the bottom of each tank that will not come out of a level tank. Tipping the RV to the street side to drain the cross pipe will actually retain more fluid in the tanks. If your gate valves do not seal completely (which was my problem) The sloshing of this remaining liquid while driving will put this liquid past the leaking gate valve and into the drain pipe, even if you waited for it to drip dry completely at the last dump.

Rob

Thanks, Rob. I’m glad to see the photos but terribly depressed to understand that plumbing. I can see that tipping to the street side won’t help draining. But do see how it will help empty the pipes. Not sure what my next move might be. Thanks again.

[jbarnes4868]

Just wanted to follow up on the greased valves. Mine began to be very difficult to operate so I decided to try this grease solution. I put the zerks in the recommended location and used high temp food grade grease. After six months of heavy use I can tell you this solution has worked great.

[Jerry337]

Thanks to all of you for sharing your thoughts and suggestions on fixing stuck/leaking gate valves. I recently had the pleasure of getting coated with waste water while removing the external sewage cap due to a gate valve that is not closing on one of my gray tanks. It's a bit daunting to think we have to take such measures to fix the issue and I hope/trust that GD is reading this and will address this common problem in the future. In the meantime it sounds like a day under the rig installing a grease zerk on each valve is in order. Oh boy, can't wait for that project.

[BB&LAB]

Maybe these ????
http://drainmaster.com/rv/products/mini-view2

Beat me to it, this is my thought exactly and if I were replacing my valves this is the route I would go.

[PAPAJOJO]

Has anyone ever tried to install quarter turn ball valves on the two gray tank lines at the sewer connection? Leaving the gate valves open all the time and use the ball valve to drain the tanks. These two lines are exposed and easy access. Not sure if this could work on the black tank.