User Tag List

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 18 of 18
  1. #11
    Seasoned Camper cmillsbl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Fond du Lac, WI
    Posts
    260
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by srobins View Post
    I have the Attwood water heater with the plastic drain plug on our 297RSTS. I am curious if the water should be drained if you are not using the trailer for a few weeks. We had not used our trailer for a couple of months and noticed a rotten egg smell (hydrogen sulfide] coming from the hot water. Has anyone replaced the plastic plug with a valve?
    This is our second year RVing. Towards the end of last season (October) we also noticed the water starting to have an unpleasant odor/taste. After changing filters , I was sure it wasn't in the campsite water.

    This year, after de-winterizing and sanitizing the whole plumbing system, I decided that I would completely drain the plumbing after each trip. I pull the FW drain valve, open the low point drain plugs, remove the HW tank plug, and open all the faucets. I drive home with everything open and close everything when I get home.

    We leave for our third week-long outing next week and then a 3 week trip in July. Hopefully will have fresh tasting water all season.
    Barb and Blair, retired and loving it
    2017 F250 Lariat Super Cab, Short bed, 4x4, diesel, Tow Technology Bundle, Pullrite 16K Autoslide
    2017 Reflection 307MKS, 3/17 Build
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  2. #12
    Big Traveler JCZhome's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    A rolling stone....we're in Tucson, Az. now.
    Posts
    1,537
    Mentioned
    10 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by arhayes View Post
    I'm just going based on my experience, but I've never had an anode rod that would last a year, but we travel all the time other than a winter hiatus somewhere. There has been enough variation is minerals from stop to stop that even with double filtration, those sacrificial anodes sacrifice themselves quickly. It is true that you will never get all the water out, but with a flusher wand attachment on your hose, you'll get most of the sediment out. Again, this is more an issue with the Suburbans since they use an anode and that is what I'm familiar with. As with all things, YMMV.

    Here the flush wand
    https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Rinser-...ank+flush+wand
    Alan

    Great post Alan!

    To drain and clean your water heater faster, turn your water heater off and then open the hot water in your kitchen and bathroom sinks and let it run until it comes out room temperature. Then you can go outside and start working right away. And another caution.....the anode rod is at the bottom of the tank and so it's under pressure. As you start to loosen it, stand to one side or the other.....you don't want it to pop out of there and hit you in the gut and spash water all over you to where it looks like you wet your pants.

    I attended the RV Maint. Tech school in Texas last fall. From time to time he'd really stress some things and the water heater maint. was one of them. Maint. on them is so easy while repairs are so costly (stress and $$). They recommend draining in cleaning (vinegar/water solution) your water heater every six months. Then went on to say that it may be necessary to do it more often depending on how hard the water is where you're located or if you're full timing and move around. He said there were places in west Tex. that you have to do it ever 60-90 days.

    On the Suburban water heaters the anode rod is your sacrificial element to protect your water heater from wearing out prematurely, the same as the blue camco water filter at the bib faucet is the sacrificial filter for your RV water system.

    Also the cleaning wand that Alan points out (there are several models) are only a few bucks and they help a lot!

    If you really want to clean it out, put a plug (or the old anode rod back) in the bottom and remove the T&P valve at the top and pour in a mixture of a bottle of white vinegar and then fill your water tank with a hose through the T&P valve opening. Let that mixture sit in there for awhile (the longer the better but at least a couple of hours) and then remove the plug, drain and rinse again.
    SOLD my 2017 Momentum 376TH being pulled by a 2014 Ford F-350 Lariat, FX-4, Crew Cab, Longbed, Dually. Not pulling the 5er, catch me on my 2013 CVO Harley Ultra Classic.

    Map = states that we've stayed at least one night in our RV.

    http://visitedstatesmap.com/image/AR...TNTXUTWYsm.jpg

  3. #13
    Big Traveler arhayes's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    RV Full-time
    Posts
    1,404
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by JCZhome View Post
    Great post Alan!


    If you really want to clean it out, put a plug (or the old anode rod back) in the bottom and remove the T&P valve at the top and pour in a mixture of a bottle of white vinegar and then fill your water tank with a hose through the T&P valve opening. Let that mixture sit in there for awhile (the longer the better but at least a couple of hours) and then remove the plug, drain and rinse again.
    Great tip on the white vinegar. Makes a lot of sense. I'll have to add that to my maintenance checklist. As expensive as replacement RV components are, anything we can do to extend their service life is money in our pocket. Thanks!


    Alan
    Alan and Kathleen
    2015 Momentum 380TH (RVD2)
    2014 Ford F350 Dually (Stormtrooper)
    2012 Honda Goldwing Navi/ABS (Land Speeder)

  4. #14
    Fireside Member 2500BDM's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Northern Ky
    Posts
    59
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by srobins View Post
    I have the Attwood water heater with the plastic drain plug on our 297RSTS. I am curious if the water should be drained if you are not using the trailer for a few weeks. We had not used our trailer for a couple of months and noticed a rotten egg smell (hydrogen sulfide] coming from the hot water. Has anyone replaced the plastic plug with a valve?
    I would not recomend replacing it with a valve, removing the plug with a socket and extension isn't hard and you get a lot more of the sediment out when pulling the plug.
    2012 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins
    • B&W Compainion
    • Trimble Suspension
    • Ownice Navigation


    2018 Grand Design Reflection 28BH

  5. #15
    Left The Driveway
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Vadnais Heights, MN
    Posts
    10
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Is taking the T&P valve off and adding vinegar/water mix the only way of adding the solution to the hot water tank for cleaning? Second, does the valve, when put back on, need to be tightened to a certain amount of ft/pounds? TIA
    2018 Solitude 310GK
    2014 RAM SLT 3500 w/Aisin, SRW, crew cab, 8' box, Andersen Ultimate hitch, heated and ventilated seats for the lady.


    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
    Just gettin' started...Need to fill the Map!

  6. #16
    Site Sponsor
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Kerrville, TX RV parks through April 2020
    Posts
    1,194
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    changinglanesrv.com has a posting for maintaining the hot water heater. Since they are frequently on the Grand Design site with their Momentum, their thorough method is going to be used by me next week on our year old Solitude S with Suburban water heater. I've already gotten 2 anode rods, OE through Amazon. Stay tuned!
    AKA Steve and Lynne
    Storm the Black Lab
    Reflection 337 RLS vin 573FR3628E3300393
    2008 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab Longbox
    6.7 Cummins, 68 RFE transmission
    B and W Companion, Air Lifts

  7. #17
    Left The Driveway
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Vadnais Heights, MN
    Posts
    10
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by steve gravelle View Post
    changinglanesrv.com has a posting for maintaining the hot water heater. Since they are frequently on the Grand Design site with their Momentum, their thorough method is going to be used by me next week on our year old Solitude S with Suburban water heater. I've already gotten 2 anode rods, OE through Amazon. Stay tuned!
    I see they updated one of their videos to include the part where the red valve on the Nautilus is turned differently than the Winterizing suggests, allowing the vinegar and water to flow directly into the hot water tank. That was the part I was just not comprehending. Looking forward to any advice you may have when you do yours. Probably will do mine next week. Best.
    2018 Solitude 310GK
    2014 RAM SLT 3500 w/Aisin, SRW, crew cab, 8' box, Andersen Ultimate hitch, heated and ventilated seats for the lady.


    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
    Just gettin' started...Need to fill the Map!

  8. #18
    Big Traveler
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    NorCal
    Posts
    1,457
    Mentioned
    14 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Now you guys have me worried. I've never drained the water on on 3 yr old trailer. All the city water that comes in goes through 3 filters including an iron trap. Hopefully that's enough. I've never noticed any odd smells to the water. I do run a gallon of bleach through the system after having the trailer sit for several months though. I siphon it in and then run all the faucets and let the chlorinated water sit for 24 hrs before flushing it out.
    2017 Ford F450 - our kids call her "Big Red"
    2018 Grand Design Reflection 28bh

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

DISCLAIMER:This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Grand Design RV, LLC or any of its affiliates. This is an independent site.