User Tag List

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 25
  1. #11
    Rolling Along carnolddsm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Quartzsite until April
    Posts
    577
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by tortise View Post
    Our Dometic has stopped cooling, noticed when we got home from the rally. It’s the 8 cu foot model. Control panel is lit and switches between AC and propane modes but does not cool, fan runs, checked all fuses I could find. Pulled the back panel and control board cover and those fuses are good as are those in the distribution panel. I’m guessing I might need a new board. Anybody got any thoughts before I try to get a hold of dealer service in the morning?



    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    First, until you know you do not have a coolant leak do not operate using LP. There is hydrogen in the cooling system, hydrogen and flames do not mix well.

    Do you see any yellow powder (sodium chromate) around the tubing or any area of the rear of the refrigerator or an ammonia smell? If yes do not try to operate the refrigerator, you have a coolant leak.

    When on electric does the shroud where the heating element is get hot? If the answer is yes you don’t have a board problem. Most likely is coolant leak or blocked passage in the cooling unit.
    Colan and Marilyn Arnold
    Des Moines, IA - kind of, on the road full time.
    Currently in Durango, Colorado
    Momentum 350M originally, now a 397TH

  2. #12
    Big Traveler
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    NorCal
    Posts
    1,457
    Mentioned
    14 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Was it out if level for any appreciable amount of time? That was out problem. We had parked on a big slope at an orchard.

    We just took another short labor day weekend trip. Temps outside were in the mid 50's. With minimal opening and closing of the doors, inside temps got into the mid 40's. Overnight it got back into the mid 30's.
    2017 Ford F450 - our kids call her "Big Red"
    2018 Grand Design Reflection 28bh

  3. #13
    Seasoned Camper tortise's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    280
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by carnolddsm View Post
    First, until you know you do not have a coolant leak do not operate using LP. There is hydrogen in the cooling system, hydrogen and flames do not mix well.

    Do you see any yellow powder (sodium chromate) around the tubing or any area of the rear of the refrigerator or an ammonia smell? If yes do not try to operate the refrigerator, you have a coolant leak.

    When on electric does the shroud where the heating element is get hot? If the answer is yes you don’t have a board problem. Most likely is coolant leak or blocked passage in the cooling unit.
    No sign of a coolant leak, certainly no ammonia smell and didn’t notice any yellow powder. Will take another look and then recheck for warmth at the heating element. Going to call and get a case number as I’m nearing the end of the first warranty year. Was hoping for a simple answer. Thanks for the suggestions

    Oh, I don’t recall being significantly out of level except briefly setting up and breaking camp at the fairgrounds


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    2018 Reflection 27RL
    2017 GMC 2500


  4. #14
    Site Sponsor
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Columbia, TN
    Posts
    218
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Just had the E0 code on our 337. Fridge worked fine in the driveway but when we got to campground it wasn't cooling. The display flashed an E0 code which is a communication error between the control module and display board. First unplug the 120 volt plug on fridge then remove the 12 volt supply wire at the terminal strip. Let it sit for about 10 minutes then reconnect. This cleared ours and its been working ever since. If this doesn't work unplug the wire connectors and reseat them. All else fails call Dometic. I was ready to get a new control module but it was a one week wait so I tried the mentioned. I work with robots and controls. First thing you try on a communication error is power down power up. Still think I will buy a control module for a spare. it took a good twelve hours for the fridge to cool down to about 34 degrees.

  5. #15
    Seasoned Camper tortise's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    280
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by fam5mel View Post
    Just had the E0 code on our 337. Fridge worked fine in the driveway but when we got to campground it wasn't cooling. The display flashed an E0 code which is a communication error between the control module and display board. First unplug the 120 volt plug on fridge then remove the 12 volt supply wire at the terminal strip. Let it sit for about 10 minutes then reconnect. This cleared ours and its been working ever since. If this doesn't work unplug the wire connectors and reseat them. All else fails call Dometic. I was ready to get a new control module but it was a one week wait so I tried the mentioned. I work with robots and controls. First thing you try on a communication error is power down power up. Still think I will buy a control module for a spare. it took a good twelve hours for the fridge to cool down to about 34 degrees.
    Must be a different model, no display on mine. Dealer has it, stated the cooling unit was dead, awaiting parts.



    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    2018 Reflection 27RL
    2017 GMC 2500


  6. #16
    Big Traveler
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    NorCal
    Posts
    1,457
    Mentioned
    14 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by fam5mel View Post
    Just had the E0 code on our 337. Fridge worked fine in the driveway but when we got to campground it wasn't cooling. The display flashed an E0 code which is a communication error between the control module and display board. First unplug the 120 volt plug on fridge then remove the 12 volt supply wire at the terminal strip. Let it sit for about 10 minutes then reconnect. This cleared ours and its been working ever since. If this doesn't work unplug the wire connectors and reseat them. All else fails call Dometic. I was ready to get a new control module but it was a one week wait so I tried the mentioned. I work with robots and controls. First thing you try on a communication error is power down power up. Still think I will buy a control module for a spare. it took a good twelve hours for the fridge to cool down to about 34 degrees.
    Interesting.....we got the E0 code as well. When I called Dometic the rep didn't say anything about it other than it may be a bad control board. When I brought it in to an independent repair shop (after 3 weeks being stored), the fridge started working again. At no time was the battery disconnected AFAIK. I thought the problem was being out of level since the issue first started after we parked severely out of level at an orchard.

    The fridge works now, but on hot (90 plus degree) days, it gets into the high 30's or low 40's in the late afternoon, before setting back down into the low 30's overnight.

    I think I'm going to need to do the fan mod once it's out of warranty.

    I will remember to do this reset if we ever get the E0 code again.

    Thanks!
    2017 Ford F450 - our kids call her "Big Red"
    2018 Grand Design Reflection 28bh

  7. #17
    New Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Posts
    1
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Had the same thing happen on my 303rls with the fridge code E0. Had to unplug electricity and 12V for a reset. Was working fine prior to leaving home for a trip in the BC mountains. Thanks for the previous post.

  8. #18
    Fireside Member Copperhead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    51
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    A Norcold 10Cf DC compressore fridge will fit right in the slot that a 8Cf Dometic or Norcold fridge fits. I would just replace the existing unit with a DC compressor fridge. Only 5-6 amp draw on a hot day and only cycles 30-50% of the time. Far less cycling on a cool night and also lower 3-4 amp draw.

    Norcold also makes and 8Cf DC compressor model that is a direct fit replacement for a 6Cf absorption model. And all these models will operate at up to 30 Degress off center. This is why they are also the go to fridges for boats. And instead of some goofy 24 hr cool down prior to use that is typical for an absorption fridge, a DC compressor fridge is ready to use in a couple of hours after powering up. This is all I have used for the last 7 years. I will never use an absorption fridge again.
    Last edited by Copperhead; 08-24-2019 at 02:50 PM.

  9. #19
    Big Traveler
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    NorCal
    Posts
    1,457
    Mentioned
    14 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Update: After thinking the fridge was dead, we stored the trailer for a month while we continued on to our in-laws' place in Vancouver, B.C. When picked the trailer back up, woila, the fridge started working again. So it was problem was definitely due to our parking very out of level for a couple of hours at that orchard.

    Now the problem we've been having is, on very hot days (90+ degrees F), we end up with some very high internal temps - up to 48 degrees! That's not good for the food.

    I may end up trying the internal and external fan mods. If that doesn't work, I'm ripping the dammed thing out and getting a residential fridge. We don't boondock ever, so I'm not worried about the power. I looked at those DC fridges. They're too small for our family of 5. I would love to have an icemaker and hard ice cream as well!

    With 3 kids, the fridge gets opened and closed constantly as well. On this last trip we had to resort to putting our drinks in the ice chest and leaving the thing inside so the kids would just use that. We also kept a bunch of drinks in the small outside refrigerator (which btw cools a zillion times better than the Dometic).

    I'm sick and tired of having to worry about fridge temps! I'm strongly leaning towards a residential unit.
    2017 Ford F450 - our kids call her "Big Red"
    2018 Grand Design Reflection 28bh

  10. #20
    Fireside Member Copperhead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    51
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    You looked into the DC fridges and you felt they were too small compared to what you are using now? Most of the absorption fridges in trailers today are 6 or 8 cubic feet. The Norcold 10 DC compressor fridge is 9.7 cubic feet and fits in the same space as the 8 cubic foot absorption model. And if it is like any other DC compressor fridge I have used, it will keep ice cream good and hard and refrigerator items good and cold.

    But any fridge will have a tough time keeping things cold if the door is being opened all the time. For kids I would just keep a Coleman cooler with ice packs and drinks. I have a 54 qt Coleman Cooler and use Cooler Shock ice packs and it will keep drinks very cold for several days. No mess from melting ice either.

    But I can see getting a residential if one needs more than 10 CF. But then, if you want it to run while towing, you are going to have to install an inverter if you don't already have one. Whereas the DC fridge can run all the time with no modification or additions to the the electrical systems. I don't think some realize that a DC compressor fridge and a residential fridge are the very same critter. A residential fridge just converts AC to DC internally and does the very same thing as a DC fridge. At least the DC fridge is built for mobile applications and can take more abuse.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

DISCLAIMER:This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Grand Design RV, LLC or any of its affiliates. This is an independent site.