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  1. #1
    Fireside Member
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    Kantleak water system

    We have a 2016 Solitude with a Kantleak water valve system. I have a issue with fresh water tank filling while on city water . It’s a relative slow leak but over a week I got a little less than a quarter tank. Is their an easy fix or do I need a pro? We are full timers and have never used the fresh water tank due to never boondocking. Thanks for any help, Trama


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  2. #2
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    Well documented problem. Need to change out the valve stem. GD may send you a new one for free. If not check with Andersen Brass the Kantleak valve manufacturer and they may send one out. The replacement valve comes with good instructions on how to remove the stem. Some if us remove the stem yearly and lube the washers using plumbers grease. Also one should release the water pressure on the system before turning the valve.
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  3. #3
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
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    trama1 - In addition to minnow101's advice, there is a "fresh tank access" valve referenced on your valve position diagram. Opening this valve connects the water pressure system to the line to the tank and is supposed to be used when drawing from a container with the onboard pump for filling the water tank or sanitizing or winterizing. But . . . if this valve is not completely closed (or is leaking internally) this will fill the fresh water tank whenever you have city water pressure to the RV.

    Unfortunately, there is no "easy fix" for this as the solution (if the tank access valve proves to be the problem) is to replace the valve. I would first try cycling this valve open and shut in case something is stuck in it that can be flushed out. Then leave it firmly shut.

    Rob
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  4. #4
    Big Traveler arhayes's Avatar
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    Actually, you may be able to fix the Kantkeak valve stem. There are multiple o-rings on this valve, and what has happened is one will get unseated when making selections with the system pressurized. I had the issue you do a 3 years ago and replaced a damaged o-ring. Problem solved.


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  5. #5
    Seasoned Camper
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    When I had a Kantleak issue early on, I called Anderson Brass and they were very pleasant and sent me two new valve stems. While waiting, I removed the original valve stem, noticed the out of place O ring, and re-seated it. I re-installed with a wipe of plumber's grease and it has worked fine ever since. I still have two new spares in case of trouble.

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  6. #6
    Site Sponsor Justaguy's Avatar
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    Anderson Kantleak

    Has anyone done the retrofit of the new brass Anderson Kantleak Valve?

    Just FYI. The MANRV102RF comes with the MANRV102-1RF face plate. If you order the man RV 102 RF will not have the winterize/ sanitize tank feature that is displayed on the 1021 RF faceplate. Here is my completed mock-up of the 102 RF valve. Very little information out there but I think I got it right. If you have done the retrofit and have any pictures I would sure like to see them. Any feedback is appreciated.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Anderson Kantleak Retro.jpg  
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  7. #7
    Site Sponsor gbkims's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justaguy View Post
    Has anyone done the retrofit of the new brass Anderson Kantleak Valve?
    Any feedback is appreciated.
    The PEX and brass already looks better.

    I have it sitting in it's box, received same part number in late May.
    I'll be doing sometime, it's on my to do list along with a 12V ball valve.
    - Gene

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  8. #8
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justaguy View Post
    Has anyone done the retrofit of the new brass Anderson Kantleak Valve?

    Just FYI. The MANRV102RF comes with the MANRV102-1RF face plate. If you order the man RV 102 RF will not have the winterize/ sanitize tank feature that is displayed on the 1021 RF faceplate. Here is my completed mock-up of the 102 RF valve. Very little information out there but I think I got it right. If you have done the retrofit and have any pictures I would sure like to see them. Any feedback is appreciated.
    Hi Dean,

    The "new" Kantleak brass valve does not change the position or logic of the water connections. They are just changing the plastic parts back to brass. I assume that you have seen my attachment to post 1 of this thread https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...n-303RLS/page8 ? Several pictures there may help you.

    I am still using the plastic Kantleak valve, but now have all Pex plumbing. When we returned from our winter travels, the trailer was parked for over a month before I got around to draining the water system. The pressure gauge showed 45 psi . . . exactly the same as it did a month before when I last shut off the pump. That pretty much confirms "zero leaks" .

    Rob
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_2564.jpg  
    Cate & Rob
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  9. #9
    Site Sponsor Justaguy's Avatar
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    Nice work...looks good. Would like to see how you retrofitted the tank handles. I hate those things.
    Dean and Cindy
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  10. #10
    Big Traveler boyscout's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cate&Rob View Post
    The "new" Kantleak brass valve does not change the position or logic of the water connections. They are just changing the plastic parts back to brass. I assume that you have seen my attachment to post 1 of this thread https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...n-303RLS/page8 ? Several pictures there may help you.
    Re: the picture you posted above, ohhh Rob, if only I had your time and skill! What's that blocky thing hanging down in front off your (I think) main water input?
    Mark - 2018 Solitude 310GK - 2017 F-350 diesel SRW short box - Pullrite Superglide hitch

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