Adding cooling fans to the back of the fridge

[chrisopy]

Well I decided to tackle refrigerator cooling issues, inside and out. I have a Reflection 285BHTS with a Dometic 2862 (8 cu.ft) refrigerator. I read a bunch on this thread and other threads on this site (thank you). I did some looking behind my refrigerator in the slide and then placed an amazon order. So I put two - 92mm IP55 (dust/waterproof fans) behind the refrigerator. I took out the single stock fan, disconnected the 135F thermoswitch and put a 105F switch underneath the disconnected old switch on the fins at the top of the refrigerator (...I figured why waste a ready made mounting spot). I had to cut the luon panel but I put it back in with a few zip ties and some metal A/C tape...worked surprising well. Inside I mounted the 3 fan kit on the interior fins using velcro and I bought some 2 inch spring clips as an extra mounting clamp. I routed the power wire down the condensation vent tube, exited and resealed the tube with silicone caulk and used posi-tap connectors to tap into 12 DC. ...it all works!!

On the rear fans, the original fan was mounted blowing down toward the coils. ...this did not make sense to me because: a. heat rises, b. the single fan was 18" - 24" above/higher than the condenser coils. It seemed to me this fan would be triggered when the cooling fins 12" above the fan hit 135F, and then it would try to blow air down at the condenser coils 18" to 24" lower...fighting the rising hot air the whole time. So I mounted the two new fans blowing the hot air up and out of the baffle/top hatch. I tested the fans by blowing a hair dryer on the thermoswitch, they both work well and it feels like the pull/suck air up as there was a feeling of moving air at the bottom of the chimney. I did go ahead and order a 140mm fan that I am likely going to mount either just inside the lower hatch or further inside at the base of the chimney (blowing in/up). I plan on using a second 105F thermoswitch up high on the fins to trigger the lower fan as well. All the three fans in the rear of the refrigerator will use .94 Amp, and 11.3 Watts. I think the refrigerator will be a cooling machine now!

I have attached photos, hope they work.

Attachment 27079
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I believe I have the same fridge as you, but in my trailer my fridge is in the back. How did you wire the new fans in? Splice into original fan wiring? I'm handy, electrical just isn't my best. My original fan is blowing up towards the coil, but I want to add another one. I also had a curved metal baffle on top of my fridge that I cut shorter to bring it out more towards the back edge of the fridge so heat can't sit on top of the fridge. I need to add insulation too, but am finding it hard to find a small roll instead of a whole roll.

[Mikec557]

I believe I have the same fridge as you, but in my trailer my fridge is in the back. How did you wire the new fans in? Splice into original fan wiring? I'm handy, electrical just isn't my best. My original fan is blowing up towards the coil, but I want to add another one. I also had a curved metal baffle on top of my fridge that I cut shorter to bring it out more towards the back edge of the fridge so heat can't sit on top of the fridge. I need to add insulation too, but am finding it hard to find a small roll instead of a whole roll.

I can't remember which, but it was Home Depot or Lowe's that I bought a small roll of Corning Pink fiberglass. It was it was standard 16in center width and something like 4 to 6 feet long... but rolled up it was barely 3 in diameter. It's easy to miss in the store, but it's there.

[Mikec557]

Well I decided to tackle refrigerator cooling issues, inside and out. I have a Reflection 285BHTS with a Dometic 2862 (8 cu.ft) refrigerator. I read a bunch on this thread and other threads on this site (thank you). I did some looking behind my refrigerator in the slide and then placed an amazon order. So I put two - 92mm IP55 (dust/waterproof fans) behind the refrigerator. I took out the single stock fan, disconnected the 135F thermoswitch and put a 105F switch underneath the disconnected old switch on the fins at the top of the refrigerator (...I figured why waste a ready made mounting spot). I had to cut the luon panel but I put it back in with a few zip ties and some metal A/C tape...worked surprising well. Inside I mounted the 3 fan kit on the interior fins using velcro and I bought some 2 inch spring clips as an extra mounting clamp. I routed the power wire down the condensation vent tube, exited and resealed the tube with silicone caulk and used posi-tap connectors to tap into 12 DC. ...it all works!!

On the rear fans, the original fan was mounted blowing down toward the coils. ...this did not make sense to me because: a. heat rises, b. the single fan was 18" - 24" above/higher than the condenser coils. It seemed to me this fan would be triggered when the cooling fins 12" above the fan hit 135F, and then it would try to blow air down at the condenser coils 18" to 24" lower...fighting the rising hot air the whole time. So I mounted the two new fans blowing the hot air up and out of the baffle/top hatch. I tested the fans by blowing a hair dryer on the thermoswitch, they both work well and it feels like the pull/suck air up as there was a feeling of moving air at the bottom of the chimney. I did go ahead and order a 140mm fan that I am likely going to mount either just inside the lower hatch or further inside at the base of the chimney (blowing in/up). I plan on using a second 105F thermoswitch up high on the fins to trigger the lower fan as well. All the three fans in the rear of the refrigerator will use .94 Amp, and 11.3 Watts. I think the refrigerator will be a cooling machine now!

I have attached photos, hope they work.

Attachment 27079
Attachment 27080
Attachment 27081
Attachment 27082
Attachment 27083

How did you get back down inside there? Did you pull the fridge?

[lawdog1]

How did you get back down inside there? Did you pull the fridge?

I used a 8 foot step ladder, leaned in the top vent hatch, looked and reached down from the top after cutting the veneer as shown in the photo. I did not pull the fridge.

Regarding the earlier question about wiring, yes, I used/spliced into the existing fan and switch wiring. I bypassed/disconnected the 135 degree switch, spliced in the 105 degree switch and then used pin taps to run power to the fans. I wedged the 105 degree switch against the fin by loosing the screws on the old 135 degree switch bracket (so the new switch is underneath the old one wedged against the fin/held on by the old switch and bracket).

[Redapple63]

What is everyone's thoughts on a couple of these fans...

AeroCool Silent Master 200mm Blue LED Cooling Fan EN55642 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009XERK6G..._lNPuFbT4PSVN4

Thinking of these fans because they have a noise rating of only 18dba and 76 cfm.

I am sure the 76 is st the max rpm and the dba is at the minimum. Set it at the low speed, get 45 - 60 cfm per fan and no noise.

[TheLexx]

That's a really large fan. And it moves a lot of air. However I don't see anywhere that it's weatherproof. For my setup, I had to use the air dryer louver vents. As a result, some moisture might get in there. So I'm going to use Noctua IP67 rated fans.

What is everyone's thoughts on a couple of these fans...

AeroCool Silent Master 200mm Blue LED Cooling Fan EN55642 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009XERK6G..._lNPuFbT4PSVN4

Thinking of these fans because they have a noise rating of only 18dba and 76 cfm.

I am sure the 76 is st the max rpm and the dba is at the minimum. Set it at the low speed, get 45 - 60 cfm per fan and no noise.

[chrisopy]

I used a 8 foot step ladder, leaned in the top vent hatch, looked and reached down from the top after cutting the veneer as shown in the photo. I did not pull the fridge.

Regarding the earlier question about wiring, yes, I used/spliced into the existing fan and switch wiring. I bypassed/disconnected the 135 degree switch, spliced in the 105 degree switch and then used pin taps to run power to the fans. I wedged the 105 degree switch against the fin by loosing the screws on the old 135 degree switch bracket (so the new switch is underneath the old one wedged against the fin/held on by the old switch and bracket).

Thanks for the tips on the wiring. For others who have the dometic 2682, this is what I did. There was a curved baffle above my fridge that sat to far back on top of the fridge. It allowed the hot air from the fins to sit on top of the fridge and there was no insulation on top of the fridge. I shortened the baffle so the bottom edge of it sat at the back edge of the fridge now. It was hard to get out. I had to bend it from both sides and curve it to get it through the vent opening. Now the heat from the fins can't sit on top of the fridge and I also added insulation. I haven't added any extra fans yet, but plan on doing so.

[chrisopy]

I also added a piece of reflectix to the right side of the wall since a lot of heat comes off the tubing on its way up.

[chrisopy]

I believe I have the same fridge as you, but in my trailer my fridge is in the back. How did you wire the new fans in? Splice into original fan wiring? I'm handy, electrical just isn't my best. My original fan is blowing up towards the coil, but I want to add another one. I also had a curved metal baffle on top of my fridge that I cut shorter to bring it out more towards the back edge of the fridge so heat can't sit on top of the fridge. I need to add insulation too, but am finding it hard to find a small roll instead of a whole roll.

I know this is an old thread, but how did you wire the exterior fans in?

[Pete717]

I found a 12 volt hot in th base of the fridge and wired them in with a switch so i could shut them on and off