FordmanNJ's Build /mod thread

[Gimpyknee]

I have had a valve on our water heater for years. I couldn't find pictures, but here are the 3 parts needed.
http://www.acehardware.com/departmen...ectors/4001053
www.acehardware.com/departments/plumbing/supply-lines/sink-supply-lines/4334314
http://www.acehardware.com/departmen...valves/4309621

Awesome. HomeDepot here I come. When the tech showed me the WH drain plug, I had immediate thoughts of "that sucks - bad location." This is the solution!

[315RLTSinPA]

Here is a picture for you

[Calbar]

Here is a picture for you

Just wondering did you also connect a hose to the pressure relief valve to prevent water in the water heater compartment? what fittings did you use for that?

Rob

[Gimpyknee]

Awesome. HomeDepot here I come. When the tech showed me the WH drain plug, I had immediate thoughts of "that sucks - bad location." This is the solution!

Would you believe that neither HomeDepot nor Lowe's carries nylon 1/2" x 1/2" nipples? They have brass and iron. The only nylon (or even PVC) are 1/2" MPT x 3/8" hose barb. Inconceivable. Will swing by my local Taylor's Do-It center on the way home from work, then maybe have to follow the original link to Ace Hardware.

[FordmanNJ]

I bought mine on amazon. It was a 5 or 6 pack for around 11 bucks. Nylon 6/6.

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[almo88320]

I am still stuck trying to figure out how to get the plug out? Is it threaded? If so, I seem to have no spanner wrench that will fit behind the propane chamber to turn it. Also, how to introduce vinegar to the HW tank? I guess I can introduce it through the fresh tank, probably why we have to cycle it several times. The Dometic factory support rep said I'm supposed to put it in through the pressure release valve, but that is also a victim of "short-cut" engineering meant to send you to your Dealer($$$). I can't access the threads with the spigot up against the sheet metal.

Any help appreciated!

[almo88320]

Anyone seen the 2A fuse on the logic board blow? I have no hot water at all and it smells plenty bad: https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...*-no-hot-water

[FordmanNJ]

Hello GDRVOG,

Finished up the camping season with a trip to Washington DC in November. One of the latest trips into November this far north for us. Our camping season usually end in October. In years past, it was down in Florida. However at last, Christmas came and went. Santa left some nice upgrades for the trailer like some wall decor for the wife and a RV lock for myself. We got some stuff for the trailer but the RV lock was the big thing. After our trip to the Outer Banks, NC, I longed for an E lock and my wife felt the same. It makes beach days so much easier.

Pictures and write ups to come....

[FordmanNJ]

Howdy!

I believe I had a few ask about the bike rack set up on our trailer. We rock a Yakima Long Haul. RV approved and Amazon Warehouse find. Brand new in the box. Everything there. I think I paid around 200 for it to boot. There is a security cable to get the bikes leashed up for the road trip to stop them from coming off and security when parked. So far we have taken it on all kinds of trips. The furthest trip was down to OBX, NC. Rock solid. With the Furrion camera pointed in the downward location, I can check the rack going down the road. The rack is solid. One thing, I add water to my fresh water tank for ballast. The weight of bikes and the rack does shift the trailer to the back and can make the trailer feel a bit loose. About 1/3 of tank fresh water does the trick. Here is our set up with 3 bikes from the back and the side. I hope this helps a few out there with the look and use of the rack. We do use 2 adapters for the wife's and daughter's bike.

Click Here for the Yakima Long Haul







One of the Christmas gifts for the trailer was the RV lock. Looking forward to this upcoming camping season in which I don't have to worry about our keys getting lost on a beach or in the woods during a hike. The lock took about 10 minutes to install. Ours fit like a glove. There was no issues with fit and finish. I noticed some people had issues with this. The hardest part was programming. My wife got it programmed after she realized what I was doing wrong. Helpful hint you need to program it in under 10 seconds. Once she figured it out, we had a new door code for the trailer. During the install, my wife and of course our daughter was there. We all took some time to practice the opening, closing and locking the unit. The nice thing you can turn off the loud beep when you lock the trailer. Overall I like the product and look forward to using it more.




That's all for now with the trailer.

[orbiker]

Also have the LP sensors. Been using them since going full time almost a year ago and they have rarely ever worked.
They’re flaky as heck, and give a different reading every few minutes.
I hope you have better luck with yours.


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I was reading through this old thread that I didn't see.
We have the Mopeka tank sensors. We are one the second pair. I was having trouble with the first ines and contacted them. After a year and a half, they still sent me new ones. Great company and product.
Check out these tips from their web site.

Make sure your tank is level. If the tank is sitting at an angle, the surface of the liquid will also be at an angle, sometimes causing incorrect readings.

Tank Check sensor must be located properly. The black rubber contact pad should be placed on center of the tank bottom.

If experiencing a reading that looks incorrect or erratic, sometimes a slight reposition of the sensor will correct the problem.

If the bottom of the tank is dirty or rusty it will need to be wipe clean of any debris first. Also the black rubber contact pad on the sensor should be kept clean.

The bottom of your tank will need adequate clearance from the surface it is resting on. If your tank sits directly on the ground or other flat surfaces, or if your tank sits on a RV tank tray that has no cut outs, then you will need to add the 3 TankCheck spacers that are provided in the package to the bottom foot ring of your tank to provide adequate space and improved wireless signal for the sensor.

If the tank is moving or vibrating it will degrade the quality of the signal.

Movement of the tank can cause the liquid to slosh, sometimes causing erratic readings. Readings should go back to normal after a few minutes.

It’s typical to see the level change slightly with changing temperature. This is a characteristic of propane as it boils into gas.

Tank Check sensor is shipped in sleep mode to preserve battery life. You must press the Sync button on the sensor at least 5 times to wake it up before it will be detected.
We’ve found using Dielectric grease or Vaseline to help quite a bit. simply apply a small amount over the rubber pad over the sensor before attaching to the tank.

KEN