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Thread: Winterization Tips
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11-02-2018, 06:31 AM #11
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Winterization is a pretty easy chore but you can get into trouble if you don’t follow instructions. If in doubt, have the dealer do it. Your Grand Design manual has directions and if you have a Nautilus panel, there are very specific instructions in that portion of your coach manual.
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11-02-2018, 12:58 PM #12
I agree that the Nautilus instructions are very good, step by step. I do have one question though. On step 5 when the handles are in the 45 degree position to be blown out with air, should I systematically open the water lines inside the trailer, one by one, to blow them out? Will this also blow out the hot water lines? If so, I assume I start with the outlets/faucets closest to the air source and work my way to the rear bathroom? Or the opposite? Make sense? Any insight is appreciated, thanks!!!
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11-02-2018, 02:33 PM #13
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Don't forget about the pump and the attached sediment filter, I take the lines off the pump, remove the sediment filter, blow air thru the pump and drain the sediment filter. . . .
Joe & Dee
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11-02-2018, 02:51 PM #14
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My old RV had an outside filler neck for the fresh water tank. It was simple to fill and pump through the system--with a manual hot water tank bypass.
The Kantleak valve has a little more complicated process. I'm now draining my system for winter and leaving plugs caps and faucets open. There are different ways of dealing with it that work.
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11-02-2018, 03:48 PM #15
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The hot water tank should be drained by removing the anode. I'm not sure on the Nautilus - I just followed the instructions while everything was opened up. Make sure you limit the air pressure to 40 PSI. When the Nautilus is in the "Winterization" position, you'll wind up running anti-freeze through every line - cold, hot, toilet. Make sure you run enough to get some down into the drains.
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11-02-2018, 03:54 PM #16
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"Don't forget about the pump and the attached sediment filter, I take the lines off the pump, remove the sediment filter, blow air thru the pump and drain the sediment filter. . . .
Not sure how yours is plumbed, but I removed the cartridge filter, put the canister back on and pumped AF through the system in the winterization position on the panel. When done, I removed the filter housing and emptied the AF.
The bottom line in this whole procedure really isn't about the air - air helps get excess water out but it is not a substitute for AF treatment. This is about draining the water through the low point drains and HW heater then pumping AF through every water outlet via the water pump - faucets, toilet, dishwasher, W/D, external hose bibs.
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11-02-2018, 04:16 PM #17
Just a comment on air pressure . . . if you use air to winterize or as a step to help remove water before introducing antifreeze. 40 psi would be a maximum. Air at 40 psi is a lot more “explosive” than water at 40 psi. 20 psi air pressure is more than enough to purge out the water.
RobCate & Rob
2015 Reflection 303RLS
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11-02-2018, 06:41 PM #18
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11-02-2018, 06:48 PM #19
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Winterization Tips
[QUOTE=Cate&Rob;197662]Just a comment on air pressure . . . if you use air to winterize or as a step to help remove water before introducing antifreeze. 40 psi would be a maximum. Air at 40 psi is a lot more “explosive” than water at 40 psi. 20 psi air pressure is more than enough to purge
40 psi is recommended by the manufacturer. Less doesn’t seem to do much. Actually, I question if air does any good at all
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11-02-2018, 07:04 PM #20
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Hi all. Also remember to blow out the black tank flush line
JohnJohn & Carol Joscelyne and Hexy
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