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  1. #11
    Gone Traveling
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkDeb View Post
    Our first winter. Thx for the reminders and tips!!
    Winterization is a pretty easy chore but you can get into trouble if you don’t follow instructions. If in doubt, have the dealer do it. Your Grand Design manual has directions and if you have a Nautilus panel, there are very specific instructions in that portion of your coach manual.

  2. #12
    Setting Up Camp CFDWheeler's Avatar
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    I agree that the Nautilus instructions are very good, step by step. I do have one question though. On step 5 when the handles are in the 45 degree position to be blown out with air, should I systematically open the water lines inside the trailer, one by one, to blow them out? Will this also blow out the hot water lines? If so, I assume I start with the outlets/faucets closest to the air source and work my way to the rear bathroom? Or the opposite? Make sense? Any insight is appreciated, thanks!!!
    2019 Momentum 381M
    2018 Denali Dually LB with B&W Companion puck hitch
    Polaris RZR XP1k and Ranger 900XP

  3. #13
    Site Sponsor theclarks's Avatar
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    Don't forget about the pump and the attached sediment filter, I take the lines off the pump, remove the sediment filter, blow air thru the pump and drain the sediment filter. . . .
    Joe & Dee
    Ontario, Ohio
    2018 Chevy 3500HD LTZ Duramax Crew Cab SRW Short Bed Payload 3523#
    2019 Reflection 337RLS bought February 2019 Dry Pin Weight = 2,320#, UVW = 11,100#
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    2017 303RLS bought April 2017 / Traded February 2019

    Map represents States visited with our 303RLS /337RLS

  4. #14
    Long Hauler
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    My old RV had an outside filler neck for the fresh water tank. It was simple to fill and pump through the system--with a manual hot water tank bypass.

    The Kantleak valve has a little more complicated process. I'm now draining my system for winter and leaving plugs caps and faucets open. There are different ways of dealing with it that work.

  5. #15
    Gone Traveling
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    Quote Originally Posted by CFDWheeler View Post
    I agree that the Nautilus instructions are very good, step by step. I do have one question though. On step 5 when the handles are in the 45 degree position to be blown out with air, should I systematically open the water lines inside the trailer, one by one, to blow them out? Will this also blow out the hot water lines? If so, I assume I start with the outlets/faucets closest to the air source and work my way to the rear bathroom? Or the opposite? Make sense? Any insight is appreciated, thanks!!!
    The hot water tank should be drained by removing the anode. I'm not sure on the Nautilus - I just followed the instructions while everything was opened up. Make sure you limit the air pressure to 40 PSI. When the Nautilus is in the "Winterization" position, you'll wind up running anti-freeze through every line - cold, hot, toilet. Make sure you run enough to get some down into the drains.

  6. #16
    Gone Traveling
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    "Don't forget about the pump and the attached sediment filter, I take the lines off the pump, remove the sediment filter, blow air thru the pump and drain the sediment filter. . . .

    Not sure how yours is plumbed, but I removed the cartridge filter, put the canister back on and pumped AF through the system in the winterization position on the panel. When done, I removed the filter housing and emptied the AF.

    The bottom line in this whole procedure really isn't about the air - air helps get excess water out but it is not a substitute for AF treatment. This is about draining the water through the low point drains and HW heater then pumping AF through every water outlet via the water pump - faucets, toilet, dishwasher, W/D, external hose bibs.

  7. #17
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
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    Just a comment on air pressure . . . if you use air to winterize or as a step to help remove water before introducing antifreeze. 40 psi would be a maximum. Air at 40 psi is a lot more “explosive” than water at 40 psi. 20 psi air pressure is more than enough to purge out the water.

    Rob
    Cate & Rob
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  8. #18
    Fireside Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigGuy82 View Post
    I have a Splendide combo washer dryer. Here's the instructions for winterizing it, but I imagine a similar technique would work with any washer. Essentially, you are just pumping anti-freeze out of a bucket and into the hot and cold lines of the washer and into it's drain. Go to page 6. There's also info for a stacked washer dryer.

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]16085[/

    This manual is for Bighorn coaches, so everything in it won't apply to your coach but there's a lot of helpful stuff there. Use it at your own peril!
    Thanks for the information!!
    2018 Momentum 397TH
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  9. #19
    Gone Traveling
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    Winterization Tips

    [QUOTE=Cate&Rob;197662]Just a comment on air pressure . . . if you use air to winterize or as a step to help remove water before introducing antifreeze. 40 psi would be a maximum. Air at 40 psi is a lot more “explosive” than water at 40 psi. 20 psi air pressure is more than enough to purge

    40 psi is recommended by the manufacturer. Less doesn’t seem to do much. Actually, I question if air does any good at all

  10. #20
    Seasoned Camper Joscelyne3's Avatar
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    Hi all. Also remember to blow out the black tank flush line
    John
    John & Carol Joscelyne and Hexy
    Red 2014 Ford F-350 Platinum, SRW, CC, Short bed with roll-N-lock cover.
    With replacement 50 gallon TransferFlow fuel tank, Magnaflow air intake, Edge CT turner.
    Pullrite superglide fifth wheel hitch.
    2015 Grand Design 305RE Solitude, with slide out toppers, <new>Titan disc brakes and Goodyear "G" rated tires.
    From: Hatboro, Pa

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