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  1. #11
    Site Team WhittleBurner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGuy View Post
    I have basically the same rig as MidwestCamper from chevy, but mines a 15. I have also had about the same towing experience/numbers. It does the job. Could be better, but it doesn't feel dangerous.

    We do tend to get a bit of bounce in the back end at times like it's under-damped. The 1500 z71 suspension is a little soft for these loads over long distances in my opinion. Although, it could just be my lousy ranchos are about shot. They're not well regarded.

    Also, you're doing well to pick the trailer first. It really helps narrow down what trucks will work. Towing a camper couldn't have been further from my mind when I bought my truck, so I go the o/r suspension. That's not optimal and limited my options a bit.

    The last thing I'll say is that I prefer the 1500 as my daily, but wish I had the 2500 when I tow. Realistically, I just don't tow enough right now to justify the cost. If you keep the weights inline for the specific truck you're buying,* it'll do the job. The 2500 would do it more easily, but if the 1500 fits the need...

    *Side note: ignore anything the dealer, manual, towing guides, cousin Eddy, or anyone else tells you. The only way to know the actual payload capacity and tow rating is the sticker on the truck. Every truck/cab/powertrain is a little different. If you're ever in a situation where an authority is interested in your weights, that sticker is all that matters.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
    Also don't choose your truck for the trailer you have now but for the trailer you will have next. I couldn't tell you you how many times I have heard this will be the last trailer we will ever buy ( incuding us) That have bought another one. I have heard that on average people trade in their trailer about every 3 to 5 years or there about. Instead of a 250 if you went to the 350 and you do want to upgrade down the road you won't have to think about getting a new truck too.
    Marcy & Gary
    2014 Grand Design - Reflection 303RLS
    2022 GMC 3500 Denali Duramax Longbed SRW
    2015 GMC Denali 3500 - Retired
    2003 F350 - retired
    Michigan
    We're in trouble now, the dog are bloggin'!
    https://3dogsandatrailer.wordpress.com/


  2. #12
    Big Traveler
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGuy View Post
    I have basically the same rig as MidwestCamper from chevy, but mines a 15. I have also had about the same towing experience/numbers. It does the job. Could be better, but it doesn't feel dangerous.

    We do tend to get a bit of bounce in the back end at times like it's under-damped. The 1500 z71 suspension is a little soft for these loads over long distances in my opinion. Although, it could just be my lousy ranchos are about shot. They're not well regarded.

    Also, you're doing well to pick the trailer first. It really helps narrow down what trucks will work. Towing a camper couldn't have been further from my mind when I bought my truck, so I go the o/r suspension. That's not optimal and limited my options a bit.

    The last thing I'll say is that I prefer the 1500 as my daily, but wish I had the 2500 when I tow. Realistically, I just don't tow enough right now to justify the cost. If you keep the weights inline for the specific truck you're buying,* it'll do the job. The 2500 would do it more easily, but if the 1500 fits the need...

    *Side note: ignore anything the dealer, manual, towing guides, cousin Eddy, or anyone else tells you. The only way to know the actual payload capacity and tow rating is the sticker on the truck. Every truck/cab/powertrain is a little different. If you're ever in a situation where an authority is interested in your weights, that sticker is all that matters.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
    Guy,
    My mistake I also have a MY15 truck. I also experienced some bounce and I added in more bar and re-adjusted the hitch to level out the camper as it was nose down from the dealer adjustment. The result is an excellent one handed towing experience at 60-65 mph. At around 40K those factory shocks will be at the end of life where I installed a set of Bilstein's and also Michelin Defender LT tires. I've not towed yet with the new shocks and tires. Could there be a better tow experience (bigger truck)…..maybe a slight improvement. Is it needed? Absolutely not.
    MidwestCamper

    Jim & Dawn
    Near Milford, Michigan
    2017 Imagine 2600RB
    2015 GMC Sierra 1500 Double Cab 4x4

  3. #13
    Site Sponsor TheGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MidwestCamper View Post
    Guy,
    My mistake I also have a MY15 truck. I also experienced some bounce and I added in more bar and re-adjusted the hitch to level out the camper as it was nose down from the dealer adjustment. The result is an excellent one handed towing experience at 60-65 mph. At around 40K those factory shocks will be at the end of life where I installed a set of Bilstein's and also Michelin Defender LT tires. I've not towed yet with the new shocks and tires. Could there be a better tow experience (bigger truck)…..maybe a slight improvement. Is it needed? Absolutely not.
    Glad to hear the shocks helped. I'm looking forward to that change myself. I ditched the lousy SR-As early last year and went with E-rated BFG KO-2s.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGuy View Post
    Glad to hear the shocks helped. I'm looking forward to that change myself. I ditched the lousy SR-As early last year and went with E-rated BFG KO-2s.
    Oh man, those SRA's. While the Goodyear Endurance tires are performing great on the trailer, those factory SRA's on my truck were pure garbage. How was your towing experience with the E rated tires? I'm thinking 50psi on the front and 65psi on the rear for towing.
    MidwestCamper

    Jim & Dawn
    Near Milford, Michigan
    2017 Imagine 2600RB
    2015 GMC Sierra 1500 Double Cab 4x4

  5. #15
    Site Sponsor TheGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MidwestCamper View Post
    Oh man, those SRA's. While the Goodyear Endurance tires are performing great on the trailer, those factory SRA's on my truck were pure garbage. How was your towing experience with the E rated tires? I'm thinking 50psi on the front and 65psi on the rear for towing.
    Overall I like the tires, but I will say that I can feel the weight of them. IIRC, they nearly double the SR-As weight in each corner. Part of that is the heavier tire and the other part is that to get E-rated, I had to go up about 1" in diameter. So it's a slightly bigger tire, too. I first noticed the difference because I cross a particularly steep bridge twice a day and with the KO2s the truck has to downshift on cruise-control, when it didn't before. The impact is minor, but I can tell the truck is working harder to turn those big bricks. It seems to have cost me about 1-2 MPGs and they're a bit more harsh in daily use than the SR-As, which are essentially car tires. But, I haven't ever gotten stuck and I haven't ever gotten a flat in one.

    I usually shoot for 55-60psi all around all the time, but I think I need to play with that. At 55psi the rear is a little "excitable" over bumps. I run that high because when the shop put them on, they set all four at 45psi and they felt like marshmallows. I nearly took them back.

    I never got to tow anything bigger than my 1,000lb utility trailer with the SR-As. So, lacking a fair point of comparison, I cannot really say it's better or worse, but I cannot fathom the SR-As doing anything better. I have wondered if some of my bouncing is from the harder sidewalls acting more like a spring, but that's butt-dyno thinking. Who knows... Overall, I have no complaints with the KO2s other than their sheer weight and the concomitant performance impacts. Most importantly... They look really cool.

  6. #16
    Seasoned Camper Rivercityjeff's Avatar
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    Lots of Ram 1500's pulling trailers in the same class as the 2600RB, how comfortable, I don't know.

    We have towed our 2017 2600RB (9000 miles) in the mountains and to the beach with our 2012 F150 Platinum 4x4 Ecoboost 3.5 with no issues with pulling or stopping. At the recommendation of our mechanic, we have upgraded the truck's brakes to Ford "Heavy Duty" brakes.

    Our previous F150 had the 5.4 V8 and it would slow to 39 mph pulling a 5000 pound trailer in the Rockies at 10,000'. The Ecoboost 3.5 does a much better job thanks to the twin turbos.

    If/when we upgrade to a heavier trailer, we will have to upgrade to 250 class diesel.
    Last edited by Rivercityjeff; 02-24-2019 at 07:14 AM. Reason: Fat fingers
    Jeff and Mary
    2017 2600RB
    2022 F250 Lariat CC 6.7 w/ Max Tow
    Round Rock, (Donut Capital of Texas) <><

  7. #17
    Seasoned Camper
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    Just wanted to Bump and Update the Thread:

    ---I agree with the bottom quote. I tow my 2600RB with a 2019 F150 Screw (FX4/3:55 W/2.7 Ecoboost Engine) My Truck puts out 325 HP and 400 Foot Pound of Torque and I believe the Peak Torque is around 2500-3000 Rpm's. Before purchasing my GD2600RB I had a Trailer Brake installed by the Dealer and I discarded the factory yellow jounce bumbers for the Timbren Suspension Bump Stops. My weight Distribution Set up is Four Way Equalizer with 1400 lb bars. (Little overkill on the bars) and is set up perfectly !! Loaded and ready to travel with less than 1/3 tank fresh water/clothes for two in the RV and misc stuff is approx 6700Lbs. My Truck tows it Well. Trailer Brake is set at 6.5 gain and works very well. The Little(Baby) 2.7 Ecoboost is an amazing Engine and their is no Lack Of Power at all !!
    I just recently replaced my OEM Hankook AT2 Tires at 27,000 miles for the Falken WildPeak AT3W in the Extra Load (XL) Rating. Its not that the Hankooks were at the end of their life, they actually were only about half worn out. I just wanted to go with a little more aggressive tread and bump the sidewall wall construction up and these XL tires checked all the boxes. I have not towed with them yet but I will be leaving on a 1000 mile round trip to the Keys next month and I expect them to perform even better than the Hankooks. With that said, would I have a better Tow experience with a 2500 ? No Doubt I would ! However, at this time I want to stay with a 1500 and my next Truck may also be a 1500. May Go the F150 Full Hybrid Powerboost or maybe the General Motors 6.2 V8 or maybe the ''in between'' Nissan Titan XD Gasser. Time will tell but for right now I am going to enjoy my F150 2.7 Eco Engine.

    Quote Originally Posted by Crazyal View Post
    These lighter trucks may be able to tow the 2600RB but what about stopping it. If you get into the mountains you may have a pucker factor happening. Buy the 250 size truck and travel safely with no issues. This RVing is supposed to be fun. In case you decide to upgrade the trailer at some point you will have the truck to pull it.
    In the province of British Columbia if you are suspected of not having enough truck and they weigh you the MOT will take you off the road, reason being lots of 6-8% grades that last for miles, yes miles. The last trip I took with our 315 in the Salmo Creston pass it’s 8% for 10 KM. My F450 with engine braking held me to a speed of 80KMH for 10KM. Never touched the brakes.The temperature outside was 37C.

    Above all you always want more truck than trailer.
    Trailer brakes are for stopping the trailer. Truck brakes are for stopping the truck. SAE will certify that the truck can stop the entire rig with the truck alone, and the RAM 1500 would have passed the SAE tests under this condition. The OPs 1500 truck would have no issues pulling the 2600RB, while avoiding the commercial costs.

  8. #18
    Seasoned Camper Chewwi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FedMill View Post
    . . . Trailer brakes are for stopping the trailer. Truck brakes are for stopping the truck. SAE will certify that the truck can stop the entire rig with the truck alone, and the RAM 1500 would have passed the SAE tests under this condition. . . .
    Just want to point out that the SAE brake test certification requirement is at 20 mph.

  9. #19
    Site Sponsor TheGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chewwi View Post
    Just want to point out that the SAE brake test certification requirement is at 20 mph.
    That's because they know if they go any faster the test trailer's westlakes will explode!
    2015 Chevy 1500 5.3L LT-Z71 Double Cab Standard Bed
    Roadmaster Active Suspension Kit
    Tekonsha Prodigy P3 Trailer Brake Controller
    Equalizer 1k/10k hitch w/sway bracket jackets
    2019 Imagine 2600RB

  10. #20
    Seasoned Camper Chewwi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGuy View Post
    That's because they know if they go any faster the test trailer's westlakes will explode!
    Clearly, you jest!

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