Hot Water Heater Plug (again)

[TENN22]

Confused me too. The drain valve is replacing the plug at the bottom. The pic of the pressure relief valve was for the question of dissimilar metals.

Brian

Aaaaha! Thanks for the clarification, knew I must be missing something!

[traveldawg]

Doesn't anyone just remove the plug anymore and once the water heater drains flush out the tank with a wand? https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...10-4010VP.html

I flush out the tank at least yearly and there is always a bunch of residue that I don't think would drain using a slower flowing nipple (or without some help via a wand).

[Cate&Rob]

Doesn't anyone just remove the plug anymore and once the water heater drains flush out the tank with a wand? https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...10-4010VP.html

I flush out the tank at least yearly and there is always a bunch of residue that I don't think would drain using a slower flowing nipple (or without some help via a wand).

Atwood advice at a Rally Tech Seminar a while back was to open the water heater bypass with the water heater drain plug out (or the drain valve open) to flush the bottom of the water heater tank. This is what I do and there is some amount of sediment flushed out.

Rob

[Keebler]

Fortunately, my plug is very easy to access with a socket wrench; I have an anode and no option for a valve. I did have to order a 1-1/16" socket to fit it, but it is simple enough to drain that I empty it any time I have more than a couple of weeks between trips.

[howson]

Sorry for all the confusion. I should know better than to mix two issues in one post. I edited the OP to clarify I am *not* replacing the relief valve--just wanted to know why brass was OK for the relief valve but not OK for the drain valve.

Now to address the question of "why". The reason for the lower drain valve is I want to drain the hot water from the tank prior to departure due to weight. I don't need that ~50lbs of dead weight over the tire carrying the most weight. (I'll start a different thread soon on that topic, showing the results of a recent Smart Weigh.)

One more note on this topic: I stumbled across an easier way to drain the hot water tank this morning. I opened all four of the trailer's drain lines first (I put stainless valves on all four of my drain lines so opening/closing them is a simple procedure) and then I opened the (new) drain valve on the hot water heater. All of the water in the heater tank came out of the front lower drain line! Much less mess getting the water out this way--no cascade down the side of the trailer (and none on me, too).

[warsw1]

Now to address the question of "why". The reason for the lower drain valve is I want to drain the hot water from the tank prior to departure due to weight. I don't need that ~50lbs of dead weight over the tire carrying the most weight. (I'll start a different thread soon on that topic, showing the results of a recent Smart Weigh.)

One more note on this topic: I stumbled across an easier way to drain the hot water tank this morning. I opened all four of the trailer's drain lines first (I put stainless valves on all four of my drain lines so opening/closing them is a simple procedure) and then I opened the (new) drain valve on the hot water heater. All of the water in the heater tank came out of the front lower drain line! Much less mess getting the water out this way--no cascade down the side of the trailer (and none on me, too).

This is good info and something I never gave much thought. I have a 12 gal water heater which would be about 100 extra lbs on the side of the trailer that is all ready heavy. I will be draining it from now on. Thanks for the thought.

[SKI367BHS]

Love the valve and bushing idea, I hate draining that thing cause it always makes a mess...why didn't I think of that? SMH...
I also like the idea of hooking up a hose to the valve to let the water drain onto the ground instead of down the side of the trailer.
Love all the ideas I pick up from here, except my wallet isn't liking them...but as others have stated in this and another post, this issue is mentioned every year at the rally, and we buy these things then make them how they should have been from the factory...you'd think they'd make the adjustments.

[Country Campers]

Love the valve and bushing idea, I hate draining that thing cause it always makes a mess...why didn't I think of that? SMH...
I also like the idea of hooking up a hose to the valve to let the water drain onto the ground instead of down the side of the trailer.
Love all the ideas I pick up from here, except my wallet isn't liking them...but as others have stated in this and another post, this issue is mentioned every year at the rally, and we buy these things then make them how they should have been from the factory...you'd think they'd make the adjustments.

I forgot to mention this in your "welcome to the group" post, these folks love to spend money, especially other peoples money.

Brian

[bogen2]

As we have a 295RL, we have limited cargo capacity so I'm alway looking for ways to shed a bit of weight. So I put this valve together based on the ideas here that makes it easy to drop the 50 pounds of water in the water heater tank. It took a bit of driving around to find the right combination of fittings, but finally found an industrial supply company that had what I needed.

It has a poly 1/2" MPT - 3/8" FPT bushing to isolate the drain from the tank, a brass 3/8" x 1" nipple, a brass 3/8" FPT union and a 3/8" petcock. It was a bit tricky to get a wrench on the bushing to install in in the tank, but it has no leaks and extends past the gas line so its easy to access the valve. And the bonus is that most of the water drains out without running down the side.

Bob

[WhittleBurner]

As we have a 295RL, we have limited cargo capacity so I'm alway looking for ways to shed a bit of weight. So I put this valve together based on the ideas here that makes it easy to drop the 50 pounds of water in the water heater tank. It took a bit of driving around to find the right combination of fittings, but finally found an industrial supply company that had what I needed.

It has a poly 1/2" MPT - 3/8" FPT bushing to isolate the drain from the tank, a brass 3/8" x 1" nipple, a brass 3/8" FPT union and a 3/8" petcock. It was a bit tricky to get a wrench on the bushing to install in in the tank, but it has no leaks and extends past the gas line so its easy to access the valve. And the bonus is that most of the water drains out without running down the side.

Bob

I like that, no more messing with the Teflon tape either.