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  1. #21
    Long Hauler Canyonlight's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WhittleBurner View Post
    I like that, no more messing with the Teflon tape either.
    X2 most definitely !

    Thanks, for sharing, Bob @bogen2 !

    Dan
    Dan & Carol
    2014 303RLS Reflection #185 (10/2013 build)
    2012 Silverado LTZ Crew Duramax 2500HD
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  2. #22
    Site Sponsor 315RLTSinPA's Avatar
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    This is what I did. Click image for larger version. 

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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20190428_144126.jpg  
    2018 Reflection 315RLTS
    2023 F350 Lariat 6.7L/CC/LB/FX4

  3. #23
    Fireside Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by howson View Post
    Sorry for all the confusion. I should know better than to mix two issues in one post. I edited the OP to clarify I am *not* replacing the relief valve--just wanted to know why brass was OK for the relief valve but not OK for the drain valve.

    Now to address the question of "why". The reason for the lower drain valve is I want to drain the hot water from the tank prior to departure due to weight. I don't need that ~50lbs of dead weight over the tire carrying the most weight. (I'll start a different thread soon on that topic, showing the results of a recent Smart Weigh.)

    One more note on this topic: I stumbled across an easier way to drain the hot water tank this morning. I opened all four of the trailer's drain lines first (I put stainless valves on all four of my drain lines so opening/closing them is a simple procedure) and then I opened the (new) drain valve on the hot water heater. All of the water in the heater tank came out of the front lower drain line! Much less mess getting the water out this way--no cascade down the side of the trailer (and none on me, too).
    Do you have a link to those valves? This has been on my list. Those screw in caps are a real pain.
    Mike & Maggie
    Paige, Molly, Delaney & Bridget (yes, 4 daughters)
    Chocolate Lab - Seamus
    2019 312BHTS Reflection TT
    2017 F-250 Lariat SCREW Gasser 6.2L, SRW, shortbed
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  4. #24
    Long Hauler howson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike&Maggie View Post
    Do you have a link to those valves? This has been on my list. Those screw in caps are a real pain.
    The links are in post #4 of this thread.

    But after all the fuss to replace the nylon plug with the valve I don't use it! As mentioned, I open the drain lines (under the camper) and when I open the T&P valve (that's the one with the small arm on the hot water heater) all the water drains out. Since I've put 1/4 turn valves on the drain lines it is a very quick and easy process to drain the hot water heater.
    2017 Ford F-350 DRW 6.7L Platinum
    2019 315RLTS (purchased 16 Jul 18 from Campers Inn RV in Byron, GA)

  5. #25
    Seasoned Camper Da Breeze's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cate&Rob View Post
    Hi Jerry,

    I like the 1/4 turn ball valve idea! You could go one step further by adding a hose nipple to the outer side of the valve and a short piece of hose to bring the drain water out past the water heater housing (and the RV wall).

    Rob
    Hey Rob,
    I'm late to this newest "party", but I LOVE this newest idea..
    Does this Bostitch ball valve require your 3/4 to 1/2 nylon bushing ??
    I think someone asked.... but I did not find an answer.
    I'm pretty sure it does but would like to confirm with the RV Guru...

    Thanks,
    Michael
    Previously known as mikgala

    F-250 7.3 PSD Lariat Super Cab LB wt 152K - 25 row Ford tranny cooler, A&E Air Intake system, TS-6 high performance Super Chip, Air Ride airbags, Bilstein shocks

    2017 Reflection 307 MKS 9,875 UVW / 12,995 GVWR / 1,605 Pin

    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  6. #26
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikgala View Post
    Hey Rob,
    I'm late to this newest "party", but I LOVE this newest idea..
    Does this Bostitch ball valve require your 3/4 to 1/2 nylon bushing ??
    I think someone asked.... but I did not find an answer.
    I'm pretty sure it does but would like to confirm with the RV Guru...

    Thanks,
    Michael
    Hi Michael,

    Not really the "newest" idea . . . I did this in April of 2015! See post 24 on this thread https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...840#post182840 The nylon bushing is still required to separate the brass fittings from the aluminum tank to prevent galvanic corrosion.

    Rob
    Cate & Rob
    2015 Reflection 303RLS

  7. #27
    New Member
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    I am so glad to have found this and Rob's old thread. Just got back Sunday afternoon from our trailer's inaugural camping trip (a short weekender), went to drain the hot water heater, and found that the plastic drain plug was obviously badly cross-threaded (from the factory?). I initially thought about simply finding another plug. Now, I have ANOTHER project to add to an endless list. But, since y'all have seemingly done all of the legwork on this one, all I have to do is get the parts and install. I have found so many answers to my newbie questions in just a short time here, I just have to say: YOU GUYS ROCK!
    Last edited by GD Rover; 07-16-2019 at 11:16 PM.
    2019 Imagine XLS 21BHE
    2016 Ford F150 XLT 4x4 Super Crew

  8. #28
    Site Sponsor theburgerts's Avatar
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    315RLTS.... Just saw this. Really cool! I sent you a PM asking some questions. Thanks!
    Quote Originally Posted by 315RLTSinPA View Post
    This is what I did. Click image for larger version. 

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    Lynette & Steve
    2001 Ford Excursion 4WD 7.3 Turbo Diesel
    Former Owner - 2018 315RLTS Reflection TT

  9. #29
    Seasoned Camper
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    I did this but used the parts in posts 2, 3 and 4 here: https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...ter-tank-drain

    Works great! I do suggest using a thread sealant rather than teflon tape on the threads. Teflon tape is for making threads slick so you can better tighten NPT (tapered) threads but a sealant is better at sealing the connection. I noticed my water heater plug had sealant on it from the factory. Blue Monster Sealant is rated safe for all metal and plastics including nylon threaded connectors. Buy at Lowes here: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Blue-Monste...ant/1000255337
    Last edited by HighFive; 10-26-2019 at 12:46 PM.
    2019 303RLS Reflection 5th Wheel
    2019 Ford F350 Lariat 4X4 CC/SB/SRW 6.7L Diesel
    B&W Companion Slider Hitch

  10. #30
    Site Sponsor theburgerts's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HighFive View Post
    I did this but used the parts in posts 2, 3 and 4 here: https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...ter-tank-drain

    Works great! I do suggest using a thread sealant rather than teflon tape on the threads. Teflon tape is for making threads slick so you can better tighten NPT (tapered) threads but a sealant is better at sealing the connection. I noticed my water heater plug had sealant on it from the factory. Blue Monster Sealant is rated safe for all metal and plastics including nylon threaded connectors. Buy at Lowes here: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Blue-Monste...ant/1000255337
    Exactly the kind of information I need! Perfect. I can do things like this, but I always need the help with the "what" I need. [emoji106]

    Sent from LB's phone using Tapatalk
    Lynette & Steve
    2001 Ford Excursion 4WD 7.3 Turbo Diesel
    Former Owner - 2018 315RLTS Reflection TT

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