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Thread: Hot Water Heater Plug (again)
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01-20-2019, 03:32 PM #1
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Hot Water Heater Plug (again)
I've read this (old) thread: https://www.mygrandrv.com/fo...er-Heater-Plug
I tried a plug-to-compression adapter (from Home Depot) with braided hose and a brass valve--it leaked at the valve. I hate plumbing.
I tried a Valterra valve found at Camping World--it leaked (at the valve). Did I mention I hate plumbing?
I put the original plug back in for now. Why do I need a drain valve? That's a weight story for another thread (I had my trailer SmartWeigh'd at an Escapee's site in south Florida.)
First: @Rob, can you elaborate on exactly how you put your drain valve together?
Second: I noticed while putting the original plug in that the pressure relief valve is brass. If electrolysis is such a concern, how can Atwood get away with using this in the hot water heater?
EDIT: Due to confusion (see later posts in this thread) understand I am *not* replacing the pressure relief valve. I am questioning (in "part 2" of my question) why it is OK to have a brass pressure relief valve in the aluminum tank but it is not OK to have a brass drain valve.
Last edited by howson; 01-22-2019 at 03:01 PM.
2017 Ford F-350 DRW 6.7L Platinum
2019 315RLTS (purchased 16 Jul 18 from Campers Inn RV in Byron, GA)
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01-20-2019, 04:05 PM #2
I use a threaded nylon nipple, braided stainless supply hose, and a 1/4 turn valve. Want to drain the water heater, just open the valve. Never had a problem with that set up in 13 years. You must use a nylon nipple. Any other type of plastic will soften and blow out under pressure.
2018 Reflection 315RLTS
2023 F350 Lariat 6.7L/CC/LB/FX4
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01-20-2019, 04:46 PM #3
Hi Howard,
Back when I created my drain valve, I was bound and determined to make this thing from parts that I had on hand . I was machining parts on my lathe and gluing things designed to be free spinning . . . I could have just gone to Home Depot and bought the parts! Basically a 3/4" to 1/2" plastic bushing that threads into the tank and a brass nipple that connects the 1/2" thread to the drain valve.
The question about "why is brass to aluminum OK for the pressure relief valve?" came up in the original discussion. I don't have an answer for this. I have seen what galvanic corrosion can do between brass and aluminum in a marine environment . . . so, I wasn't taking any chances and used the plastic isolation bushing .
RobCate & Rob
2015 Reflection 303RLS
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01-21-2019, 05:05 PM #4
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Got 'er Done!
Finally! Ace Hardware had exactly what was needed (and it doesn't leak!).
https://www.acehardware.com/departme...fittings/48737
https://www.acehardware.com/departme...e-valves/47092
If you want to try and duplicate what I did, turn off the external water (or pump) and depressurize the tank using the relief valve. Remove the old plug. Wrap the threads of the new plug and brass valve in plumbing tape and install the valve into the bushing using two wrenches. Then (carefully) install the bushing into the hot water heater. Be careful of the wires since it is necessary to use a wrench to slowly and carefully seat the plug.
I can now drain my hot water tank easily. OK, I gotta say it--I hate plumbing! (I should probably say I hate how ignorant I am about plumbing.)2017 Ford F-350 DRW 6.7L Platinum
2019 315RLTS (purchased 16 Jul 18 from Campers Inn RV in Byron, GA)
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01-21-2019, 05:48 PM #5
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I don’t like those drain valves. They are used as compressor tank drains and sometimes they can be a pain to stop from leaking.
I use these on my compressor tanks. 1/4 turn ball valve. https://www.amazon.com/Bostitch-BTFP...dp/B00HXD2UZA/
I wonder if it would work with the reduction bushing.
Jerry & Linda
Emma & Abby our Mini Golden Doodles & JR our Amazon Parrot
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01-21-2019, 06:08 PM #6
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01-21-2019, 06:23 PM #7
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Just curious......but are you not worried that you replaced a pressure relief valve (a safety feature) with a non relief valve?
Or, am I missing something?
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01-21-2019, 06:36 PM #8Cate & Rob
2015 Reflection 303RLS
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01-21-2019, 06:38 PM #9
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01-21-2019, 06:41 PM #10
Hi Brady,
Not clear from the bouncing back and forth discussion . . . but, the pressure relief valve is at the top and only part of this thread because it is brass into aluminum which is a bad thing to do for galvanic corrosion reasons. All the rest of the discussion is about how to replace the plastic drain plug at the bottom with a drain valve that can be opened without removing the plastic plug.
RobCate & Rob
2015 Reflection 303RLS
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