User Tag List

Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 31
  1. #1
    Long Hauler howson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    NW Florida
    Posts
    2,816
    Mentioned
    49 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Hot Water Heater Plug (again)

    I've read this (old) thread: https://www.mygrandrv.com/fo...er-Heater-Plug

    I tried a plug-to-compression adapter (from Home Depot) with braided hose and a brass valve--it leaked at the valve. I hate plumbing.

    I tried a Valterra valve found at Camping World--it leaked (at the valve). Did I mention I hate plumbing?

    I put the original plug back in for now. Why do I need a drain valve? That's a weight story for another thread (I had my trailer SmartWeigh'd at an Escapee's site in south Florida.)

    First: @Rob, can you elaborate on exactly how you put your drain valve together?

    Second: I noticed while putting the original plug in that the pressure relief valve is brass. If electrolysis is such a concern, how can Atwood get away with using this in the hot water heater?

    EDIT: Due to confusion (see later posts in this thread) understand I am *not* replacing the pressure relief valve. I am questioning (in "part 2" of my question) why it is OK to have a brass pressure relief valve in the aluminum tank but it is not OK to have a brass drain valve.

    Last edited by howson; 01-22-2019 at 03:01 PM.
    2017 Ford F-350 DRW 6.7L Platinum
    2019 315RLTS (purchased 16 Jul 18 from Campers Inn RV in Byron, GA)

  2. #2
    Site Sponsor 315RLTSinPA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    N.E.Pa
    Posts
    450
    Mentioned
    9 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I use a threaded nylon nipple, braided stainless supply hose, and a 1/4 turn valve. Want to drain the water heater, just open the valve. Never had a problem with that set up in 13 years. You must use a nylon nipple. Any other type of plastic will soften and blow out under pressure.
    2018 Reflection 315RLTS
    2023 F350 Lariat 6.7L/CC/LB/FX4

  3. #3
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    8,880
    Mentioned
    85 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by howson View Post
    First: @Rob, can you elaborate on exactly how you put your drain valve together?

    Second: I noticed while putting the original plug in that the pressure relief valve is brass. If electrolysis is such a concern, how can Atwood get away with using this in the hot water heater?
    Hi Howard,

    Back when I created my drain valve, I was bound and determined to make this thing from parts that I had on hand . I was machining parts on my lathe and gluing things designed to be free spinning . . . I could have just gone to Home Depot and bought the parts! Basically a 3/4" to 1/2" plastic bushing that threads into the tank and a brass nipple that connects the 1/2" thread to the drain valve.

    The question about "why is brass to aluminum OK for the pressure relief valve?" came up in the original discussion. I don't have an answer for this. I have seen what galvanic corrosion can do between brass and aluminum in a marine environment . . . so, I wasn't taking any chances and used the plastic isolation bushing .

    Rob
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0448.jpg  
    Cate & Rob
    2015 Reflection 303RLS

  4. #4
    Long Hauler howson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    NW Florida
    Posts
    2,816
    Mentioned
    49 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Got 'er Done!

    Finally! Ace Hardware had exactly what was needed (and it doesn't leak!).

    https://www.acehardware.com/departme...fittings/48737
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Nylon Bushing.JPG 
Views:	48 
Size:	63.0 KB 
ID:	17296

    https://www.acehardware.com/departme...e-valves/47092
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	brass valve.JPG 
Views:	38 
Size:	87.2 KB 
ID:	17297

    If you want to try and duplicate what I did, turn off the external water (or pump) and depressurize the tank using the relief valve. Remove the old plug. Wrap the threads of the new plug and brass valve in plumbing tape and install the valve into the bushing using two wrenches. Then (carefully) install the bushing into the hot water heater. Be careful of the wires since it is necessary to use a wrench to slowly and carefully seat the plug.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Finished Vavle.jpg 
Views:	50 
Size:	92.2 KB 
ID:	17298

    I can now drain my hot water tank easily. OK, I gotta say it--I hate plumbing! (I should probably say I hate how ignorant I am about plumbing.)
    2017 Ford F-350 DRW 6.7L Platinum
    2019 315RLTS (purchased 16 Jul 18 from Campers Inn RV in Byron, GA)

  5. #5
    Site Sponsor Jerryr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    2,822
    Mentioned
    30 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by howson View Post
    Finally! Ace Hardware had exactly what was needed (and it doesn't leak!).

    https://www.acehardware.com/departme...fittings/48737
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Nylon Bushing.JPG 
Views:	48 
Size:	63.0 KB 
ID:	17296

    https://www.acehardware.com/departme...e-valves/47092
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	brass valve.JPG 
Views:	38 
Size:	87.2 KB 
ID:	17297

    If you want to try and duplicate what I did, turn off the external water (or pump) and depressurize the tank using the relief valve. Remove the old plug. Wrap the threads of the new plug and brass valve in plumbing tape and install the valve into the bushing using two wrenches. Then (carefully) install the bushing into the hot water heater. Be careful of the wires since it is necessary to use a wrench to slowly and carefully seat the plug.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Finished Vavle.jpg 
Views:	50 
Size:	92.2 KB 
ID:	17298

    I can now drain my hot water tank easily. OK, I gotta say it--I hate plumbing! (I should probably say I hate how ignorant I am about plumbing.)
    I don’t like those drain valves. They are used as compressor tank drains and sometimes they can be a pain to stop from leaking.

    I use these on my compressor tanks. 1/4 turn ball valve. https://www.amazon.com/Bostitch-BTFP...dp/B00HXD2UZA/

    I wonder if it would work with the reduction bushing.

    Jerry & Linda
    Emma & Abby our Mini Golden Doodles & JR our Amazon Parrot
    2017 Reflection 337RLS, Build Date 01/2017, Titan Disk Brakes, Goodyear G614s 235/85/16 G Rated tires
    2022 F-450 King Ranch Ultimate, 4,868 lb Payload, Bedrug Bedliner, Andersen Ultimate II Aluminum 5th wheel hitch
    http://visitedstatesmap.com/image/FLGANCSCsm.jpg

  6. #6
    Long Hauler howson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    NW Florida
    Posts
    2,816
    Mentioned
    49 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Jerryr View Post
    I use these on my compressor tanks. 1/4 turn ball valve.
    Thanks for the link, Jerry. If the one I installed does develop a leak I'll give the one you posted a try.
    2017 Ford F-350 DRW 6.7L Platinum
    2019 315RLTS (purchased 16 Jul 18 from Campers Inn RV in Byron, GA)

  7. #7
    Seasoned Camper
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    395
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Just curious......but are you not worried that you replaced a pressure relief valve (a safety feature) with a non relief valve?
    Or, am I missing something?

  8. #8
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    8,880
    Mentioned
    85 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Jerryr View Post
    I don’t like those drain valves. They are used as compressor tank drains and sometimes they can be a pain to stop from leaking.

    I use these on my compressor tanks. 1/4 turn ball valve. https://www.amazon.com/Bostitch-BTFP...dp/B00HXD2UZA/

    I wonder if it would work with the reduction bushing.

    Hi Jerry,

    I like the 1/4 turn ball valve idea! You could go one step further by adding a hose nipple to the outer side of the valve and a short piece of hose to bring the drain water out past the water heater housing (and the RV wall).

    Rob
    Cate & Rob
    2015 Reflection 303RLS

  9. #9
    Long Hauler
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Posts
    2,356
    Mentioned
    16 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by TENN22 View Post
    Just curious......but are you not worried that you replaced a pressure relief valve (a safety feature) with a non relief valve?
    Or, am I missing something?
    Confused me too. The drain valve is replacing the plug at the bottom. The pic of the pressure relief valve was for the question of dissimilar metals.

    Brian

  10. #10
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    8,880
    Mentioned
    85 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by TENN22 View Post
    Just curious......but are you not worried that you replaced a pressure relief valve (a safety feature) with a non relief valve?
    Or, am I missing something?
    Hi Brady,

    Not clear from the bouncing back and forth discussion . . . but, the pressure relief valve is at the top and only part of this thread because it is brass into aluminum which is a bad thing to do for galvanic corrosion reasons. All the rest of the discussion is about how to replace the plastic drain plug at the bottom with a drain valve that can be opened without removing the plastic plug.

    Rob
    Cate & Rob
    2015 Reflection 303RLS

Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

DISCLAIMER:This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Grand Design RV, LLC or any of its affiliates. This is an independent site.