Schwintek Trouble Code Lights

[Russ Olin]

I've noticed that when my RV is parked in my yard here with the slide out out, if I plug in my drop cord to 110 power then turn on the 12 volt switch on the RV. Go inside and I have got 8 red lights & one green blinking under the sink. Hit the in/out button & reset it and the lights go away. Go back out & unplug the power cord, plug it back in. And as long as the 12 volt switch is on no lights . Or just turn on the 12 volt switch with out the power cord hooked up no l code lights and everything is good to go. Here is my theory: I have a very long drop cord its the only one that will reach the RV. And the ground receptacle is broke off on the plug in end. So, when I plug in the RV to the cord with out the 12 volt switch on the Schwintek senses that there is not a complete ground. Am I right or wrong on this thinking? What say thee? I will find out by putting a new end on the drop cord. Plug it back in and see if the lights remain off. All opinions are appreciated. Great site & great information here. Thanks

[Country Campers]

The slides are 12 volt operated. When you plug into shore power it goes thru the converter to power the 12 volt system. Shore power also goes thru the converter for charging the battery. Not sure your plug end would have anything to do with this.

Brian

[howson]

I've noticed that when my RV is parked in my yard here with the slide out out, if I plug in my drop cord to 110 power then turn on the 12 volt switch on the RV. Go inside and I have got 8 red lights & one green blinking under the sink. Hit the in/out button & reset it and the lights go away. Go back out & unplug the power cord, plug it back in. And as long as the 12 volt switch is on no lights . Or just turn on the 12 volt switch with out the power cord hooked up no l code lights and everything is good to go. Here is my theory: I have a very long drop cord its the only one that will reach the RV. And the ground receptacle is broke off on the plug in end. So, when I plug in the RV to the cord with out the 12 volt switch on the Schwintek senses that there is not a complete ground. Am I right or wrong on this thinking? What say thee? I will find out by putting a new end on the drop cord. Plug it back in and see if the lights remain off. All opinions are appreciated. Great site & great information here. Thanks

I'm not sure I understand the reference to the "12 volt switch". Are you referencing the battery disconnect? If you're powering the 120V to 12V converter (by plugging in an external power cord) you don't want to turn off the battery disconnect. (See page 79 of the Imagine owner's manual.)

Your Schwintek is powered by the trailer's 12V circuit and will extend or retract with just the battery if the battery disconnect is on. Assuming, of course, that the battery is charged and functional. If the battery is good your power cord should have nothing to do with the Schwintek error code. (1 green is motor one, 8 red is "no hall signal present". I have no idea what a "hall signal" is.)

Probably the equivalent of heresy, but here's an relevant thread I found using Google on the irv2 forum: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/schwi...lp-333045.html

[howson]

The slides are 12 volt operated. When you plug into shore power it goes thru the converter to power the 12 volt system. Shore power also goes thru the converter for charging the battery. Not sure your plug end would have anything to do with this.

Brian

Beat me to it, Brian. You responded while I was typing/researching.

[Russ Olin]

I'm not sure I understand the reference to the "12 volt switch". Are you referencing the battery disconnect? If you're powering the 120V to 12V converter (by plugging in an external power cord) you don't want to turn off the battery disconnect. (See page 79 of the Imagine owner's manual.)

Your Schwintek is powered by the trailer's 12V circuit and will extend or retract with just the battery if the battery disconnect is on. Assuming, of course, that the battery is charged and functional. If the battery is good your power cord should have nothing to do with the Schwintek error code. (1 green is motor one, 8 red is "no hall signal present". I have no idea what a "hall signal" is.)

Probably the equivalent of heresy, but here's an relevant thread I found using Google on the irv2 forum: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/schwi...lp-333045.html

Yes, I was referring to the 12 volt switch. As long as that switch is on & I plug into the power cord no code lights come on. If I do it the other way, 110 first then flip the battery 12 volts switch on I get 8 reds & 1 green. Which generally is a grounding problem. Since power cord is not grounded properly I hope that this will solve it. I will go up there today turn on the 12 volt switch & everything will be fine. No lights no problem.

[Russ Olin]

Update: Been busy the last few days, finally had some time to test my theory if a missing ground pin on my drop cord was setting off the code lights. So I warmed up my 2000 watt Honda generator, its been really cold here the last few weeks. Packed the generator up to the RV got a shorter drop cord with the ground on both ends. Started the generator, plugged it into the drop cord on the RV. Went inside the RV the TV light was on, checked under the sink. No lights blinking. Went back outside flipped on the 12 volt power switch, back inside checked under the sink, no code lights. YEA, I am a happy camper. As I will not have to take the unit back to have the Schwintek checked out. Moral of the story is make sure all of your drop cords are properly grounded. Or you may set off your code lights when you don't really have a problem, other than you don't have a completely grounded system back to the 110 plug. Hope that this helps someone else out. Happy RV'ing

[TheGuy]

I'm not sure I understand the reference to the "12 volt switch". Are you referencing the battery disconnect? If you're powering the 120V to 12V converter (by plugging in an external power cord) you don't want to turn off the battery disconnect. (See page 79 of the Imagine owner's manual.)

Your Schwintek is powered by the trailer's 12V circuit and will extend or retract with just the battery if the battery disconnect is on. Assuming, of course, that the battery is charged and functional. If the battery is good your power cord should have nothing to do with the Schwintek error code. (1 green is motor one, 8 red is "no hall signal present". I have no idea what a "hall signal" is.)

Probably the equivalent of heresy, but here's an relevant thread I found using Google on the irv2 forum: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/schwi...lp-333045.html

Fwiw, a no hall signal error is referring to the hall effect sensors which detect fluctuating magnetic fields to indirectly measure movement. Generally speaking...There is a magnet (or series of them evenly spaced) on a moving part and the sensor on a stationary part that detects the magnets as they spin/slide past.

An example is the Camshaft/crankshaft position sensors on car engines. The computer can tell from the timing of the pulses how fast the part is turning and by extension calculate when to send spark or inject fuel, etc..

In this case of schwinteck (SP?) slides it would be how the controller knows if the slide is fully in or out or somewhere in between. It could also let the controller detect if the two sides of the slide start moving at different rates, like a jam or failing/failed motor.

So if the controller cannot identify these pulses, it's designed to fail safe and not move the slide.

...and there's my rambling of the day.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

[Country Campers]

Fwiw, a no hall signal error is referring to the hall effect sensors which detect fluctuating magnetic fields to indirectly measure movement. Generally speaking...There is a magnet (or series of them evenly spaced) on a moving part and the sensor on a stationary part that detects the magnets as they spin/slide past.

An example is the Camshaft/crankshaft position sensors on car engines. The computer can tell from the timing of the pulses how fast the part is turning and by extension calculate when to send spark or inject fuel, etc..

In this case of schwinteck (SP?) slides it would be how the controller knows if the slide is fully in or out or somewhere in between. It could also let the controller detect if the two sides of the slide start moving at different rates, like a jam or failing/failed motor.

So if the controller cannot identify these pulses, it's designed to fail safe and not move the slide.

...and there's my rambling of the day.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

So you are "TheGuy" I thought you were just "that guy" haha.

Brian

[Russ Olin]

Fwiw, a no hall signal error is referring to the hall effect sensors which detect fluctuating magnetic fields to indirectly measure movement. Generally speaking...There is a magnet (or series of them evenly spaced) on a moving part and the sensor on a stationary part that detects the magnets as they spin/slide past.

An example is the Camshaft/crankshaft position sensors on car engines. The computer can tell from the timing of the pulses how fast the part is turning and by extension calculate when to send spark or inject fuel, etc..

In this case of schwinteck (SP?) slides it would be how the controller knows if the slide is fully in or out or somewhere in between. It could also let the controller detect if the two sides of the slide start moving at different rates, like a jam or failing/failed motor.

So if the controller cannot identify these pulses, it's designed to fail safe and not move the slide.

...and there's my rambling of the day.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Yea, this is some great information. I understand most of it. But the fact is I'm not hitting the switch and moving the slide out in & out. Its been out the whole time. I'm just talking about when I plug it in & go inside the RV. That's all I know. If some one out there has a cord with the ground pin broke off give it a shot. Plug in your RV then turn on the 12 volt switch and see if the lights are blinking on the Schwintec panel in the bathroom cupboard. Tomorrow I plan to repair my long drop cord put a new end on it properly grounded & plugged into my garage. And hoping for the same results. NO code lights in the RV.

[TheGuy]

So you are "TheGuy" I thought you were just "that guy" haha.

Brian

Lol. Ive been considering asking the mods to change it.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk