User Tag List

Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1
    Seasoned Camper The Glampers's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    SW of The A.T.L.
    Posts
    137
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Added Stability.

    New thread in the general discussion thread sparked this question. Not wanting to hijack a thread, I thought I’d post a new one here.

    We have a 2019 394m. I have heard differing opinions, and before shelling out the bucks to disprove or prove; I’d like to kindly submit to those with real world momentum experience:

    Would a jt strongarm or comparable stabilizing system be effective in such a heavy coach? Is it a significant enough difference to merit the purchase and installation?

    Thnx,

    ////chile.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    SW of ATL
    2018 F350 CC DRW
    2019 Momentum 394M

  2. #2
    Long Hauler offtohavasu's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Fountain Valley, CA
    Posts
    2,254
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    The Momentum uses hydraulic leveling. I'm not sure JT strongarm has anything compatible with that.
    Curtis, Christine, Cole, and Charlotte

    2007 Chevrolet Silverado Duramax LBZ, CCLB
    2020 Momentum 351M

  3. #3
    Long Hauler Canyonlight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    South Dakota
    Posts
    3,371
    Blog Entries
    1
    Mentioned
    22 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by offtohavasu View Post
    The Momentum uses hydraulic leveling. I'm not sure JT strongarm has anything compatible with that.
    Curtis - I think they do and I seem to recall some folks with auto hydraulic posting on the forum. Here is the link to LCI OEM flyer pdf which seems to confirm that:

    http://images.salsify.com/image/uplo...1fgdjwbbvvaxx4

    Dan
    Dan & Carol
    2014 303RLS Reflection #185 (10/2013 build)
    2012 Silverado LTZ Crew Duramax 2500HD
    2700/16K Pullrite Superglide

  4. #4
    Long Hauler offtohavasu's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Fountain Valley, CA
    Posts
    2,254
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Dan, I see the electric style legs and the scissor jacks, but nothing for hydraulic.
    Curtis, Christine, Cole, and Charlotte

    2007 Chevrolet Silverado Duramax LBZ, CCLB
    2020 Momentum 351M

  5. #5
    Site Sponsor
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    North Atlanta, Georgia
    Posts
    30
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Steady fast should fit hydraulic systems.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Door_Side_Rear_Jack_3.jpg 
Views:	20 
Size:	60.6 KB 
ID:	19814
    2018 Reflection 337RLS, Build Date 03/2018,
    Sailun 235/80/16 G Rated tires, TST507 TPMS,
    Titan electric / hydraulic Disc Brakes
    2015 Ford Platinum 6.7 Short Bed, B&W Turnoverball,
    Andersen Ultimate II Aluminum hitch

  6. #6
    Long Hauler Canyonlight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    South Dakota
    Posts
    3,371
    Blog Entries
    1
    Mentioned
    22 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by offtohavasu View Post
    Dan, I see the electric style legs and the scissor jacks, but nothing for hydraulic.
    Curtis - lower left corner of the pdf there is this which states:

    "If unit has hydraulic jacks, three #314592 jack adaptor lugs are required."

    Would seem to indicate this as an option. As always, a call to LCI to talk through individual situation would be a good thing.

    Dan
    Dan & Carol
    2014 303RLS Reflection #185 (10/2013 build)
    2012 Silverado LTZ Crew Duramax 2500HD
    2700/16K Pullrite Superglide

  7. #7
    Big Traveler arhayes's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    RV Full-time
    Posts
    1,404
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    The thing I’ve found that helps stability with hydraulic jacks the most is having the rams extended as little as possible. Using as much cribbing as you can under the legs has helped me minimize movement. I use 2x12x12’s screwed together and then stack as many of them as I can under each jack....especially the front ones. Our 42.5’ TH seems pretty stabile in most locations. YMMV


    Alan
    Alan and Kathleen
    2015 Momentum 380TH (RVD2)
    2014 Ford F350 Dually (Stormtrooper)
    2012 Honda Goldwing Navi/ABS (Land Speeder)

  8. #8
    Seasoned Camper The Glampers's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    SW of The A.T.L.
    Posts
    137
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by arhayes View Post
    The thing I’ve found that helps stability with hydraulic jacks the most is having the rams extended as little as possible. Using as much cribbing as you can under the legs has helped me minimize movement. I use 2x12x12’s screwed together and then stack as many of them as I can under each jack....especially the front ones. Our 42.5’ TH seems pretty stabile in most locations. YMMV


    Alan
    Thanks Alan.

    I had tried some cribbing in the front with limited success. In retrospect, the blocks I used were slightly warped. The principle of reducing the length of the stroke is sound.

    I’ll try your 2x12’s suggestion (possibly with construction adhesive) screwed together. Maybe a stack of 4 or 5?

    Thnx,

    ////Chile.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    SW of ATL
    2018 F350 CC DRW
    2019 Momentum 394M

  9. #9
    Seasoned Camper Clanker24's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    212
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have pads made out of 3 layers of 3/4” plywood glued and screwed together with rope for handles plus short pieces of 6x6 for cribbing as required. U can never have enough wood in the back of your truck
    John & Joanne
    2018 Solitude 374TH
    2018 GMC 3500HD Duramax CC DRW
    2001 Harley Ultra Classic

  10. #10
    Big Traveler arhayes's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    RV Full-time
    Posts
    1,404
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by The Glampers View Post
    Thanks Alan.

    I had tried some cribbing in the front with limited success. In retrospect, the blocks I used were slightly warped. The principle of reducing the length of the stroke is sound.

    I’ll try your 2x12’s suggestion (possibly with construction adhesive) screwed together. Maybe a stack of 4 or 5?

    Thnx,

    ////Chile.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Glampers,

    What I do is go to Lowes or HD and find 2x12 pressure treated stock. Think it is 10' lengths, but I've often lucked out and they had scraps boards they gave me for cheap. I have them cut to 12" then put 2 together with grain at 90 degrees and secure them with 3 1/2" deck screws. I found cheap handles at one of the hardware stores which makes them easier to manage. I carry 8 of the now 4x12x12, and 4 2x12x12 also with handles. Sometimes I cannot get 2 sets of 2 inserted under the front jacks, so having an option to do combo heights helps. Since I usually have to make new ones every 2 years or so I reuse both the handles and the screws. We're full-timers so mine are in constant use year round.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	pads.jpg 
Views:	19 
Size:	103.3 KB 
ID:	19855
    Alan and Kathleen
    2015 Momentum 380TH (RVD2)
    2014 Ford F350 Dually (Stormtrooper)
    2012 Honda Goldwing Navi/ABS (Land Speeder)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

DISCLAIMER:This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Grand Design RV, LLC or any of its affiliates. This is an independent site.