Imagine Grey Tank Dump Valves Stuck Closed

**Capkelly** · 06-13-2020, 02:03 PM

Well let's see if a reply notifications works?

**CoChris** · 06-13-2020, 05:40 PM

Originally Posted by Capkelly

I have a new to me used imagine xls 22RBE trailer. Initially grey dump valve T handle pulled real hard. I've seen in other posts about lubrication of dump valve cables. I will try next. Best lubrication to use on cables? Is it worth it to use dump tank valve lubricant made by Thetford. $7.19 /bottle. Does it help? Or others use vegetable oils or coconut oil. Thanks

Two different problems & solutions.

1) Use some type of lubricant (veg oil, coconut oil, commercial lube) in the tank to lubricate the valve SEAL (rubber gaskets)

2) Use some type of cable lube (cable lube, WD-40, PB-Blaster, motor oil, etc.) on the cable itself to lubricate between the cable and the sheath to free up or less the pull on the cable. This is usually worked into the cable from the handle end, but in extreme cases you can drop the coroplast (under belly cover) and access the valve end of the cable also.

Chris

**Capkelly** · 06-14-2020, 04:48 AM

Thanks Cochris for your help.

**Wicked ace** · 06-15-2020, 01:50 PM

I've posted this before but for those who don't have it. https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08.../dp/B0012TYX9W
Get one of these and some chain and cable lube to keep your drain pulls loose and moving easily.
https://www.lubriplate.com/Products/...,-11-OZ-SPRAY/
I've been doing this for years both with motorcycles and trailer drain pulls.

**Capkelly** · 06-15-2020, 02:20 PM

Well thanks for reposting this. Wicked Ace.

**CKTRANER** · 06-28-2020, 12:42 PM

I too am experiencing the dump valve 'sticktion'. (That's a technical term). Both greys pull hard and I think one or both not closing completely. Keep getting anointed when I hook-up the slinky after traveling. I sprayed um a number of times with WD-40 only to read in some blog that that's a no-no. Silicon lube was recommended. What I'd really like to know is where I can access the flush valves for maintenance and inspection. I'm pulling a 2018 Momentum 397TH. The whole bottom is covered, so no luck there. Guess I could look behind the Nautilus panel, but recollection serves me that all pex tubing.

Chuck & Kim Traner
2018 Momentum 397TH
2018 F-350 King Ranch 6.7L LB CC DRW
2019 Harley Ultra Ltd

**Cleetussnow** · 07-03-2020, 01:22 PM

I had this same issue surprise me last weekend on our first trip. Handles would not budge at the dump station except the forward grey tank. Bad news. Drove it home and starting mulling what to do. Just wrapped the job up moments ago.

First I removed the threaded sleeve from the bracket that holds the cable to the trailer. Had to remove the t handle obviously to back the cable out. Then I dipped the cable end in PB blaster to soak overnight in a plastic bottle. Next day I grabbed some vice grips, the most loathsome tool devised (except when you need it) and started to try to loosen the rod with twisting action, one grip on the rod, the other on the threaded steel sleeve. No go.

I grabbed a torch and some PB spray, and started alternating heat and lube on the sleeve, and then twisting action until I got movement. Took about 20 minutes to free the rod, then another 10 to pull the rod all the way out of the sleeve. Didn’t seem like it would free up, but I got it. It was not easy nor fun.

Then I worked the rod a couple dozen times back and forth in the sleeve with Pb blaster and anti seize compound on the rod, cleaning the rod in between until the compound had no dirt or corrosion on it. Reassembled and good to go. Did this with the black and rear grey tank valves.

Final analysis is the design has a critical flaw. The threaded sleeve is made of steel, and the rod is aluminum. If the part comes into contact salt and water, a galvanic reaction occurs between the 2 different metals. They can cleave together and often they won’t separate no matter what you do. I’ve seen this with other machinery and basically its a cutting wheel solution. I’d say I got lucky with freeing the rod.

So now what. I have a valtera gate on the end of the sewer system that I installed as a back up in case I forgot to close a valve when dumping or something. Also one of the grey tank valves never quite closed so I always got a drip. Valtera gate fixed it. I am wondering if I should leave the cable gates open and never use them again, and just use the valtera. The valtera has less things that can go wrong. I can’t see a reason why not.

The alternative is to be super vigilant and lube those sewer cables on every trip and just be on it constantly. But I fear leaving it over winter could leave me under the trailer with a torch and vice grips again. The cable system has a 3 failure points by my count...the cable connection at the gate, the rod and sleeve that failed on me, and of course the gate itself can seize. Don’t count out the cable itself locking up in there somewhere with a kink or something.

Thoughts?

**Cleetussnow** · 07-03-2020, 01:45 PM

Originally Posted by CKTRANER

I too am experiencing the dump valve 'sticktion'. (That's a technical term). Both greys pull hard and I think one or both not closing completely. Keep getting anointed when I hook-up the slinky after traveling. I sprayed um a number of times with WD-40 only to read in some blog that that's a no-no. Silicon lube was recommended. What I'd really like to know is where I can access the flush valves for maintenance and inspection. I'm pulling a 2018 Momentum 397TH. The whole bottom is covered, so no luck there. Guess I could look behind the Nautilus panel, but recollection serves me that all pex tubing.

Chuck & Kim Traner
2018 Momentum 397TH
2018 F-350 King Ranch 6.7L LB CC DRW
2019 Harley Ultra Ltd

WD isn’t a great lubricant since it has a solvent in it. Good for cleaning. I use Pb blaster for freeing things up and lube on rusty things, and I use PB general purpose lubricant otherwise. I also have CRC 656 marine lubricant for cleaning and displacing water. I use it on everything and buy it by the gallon. Keeps everything shiny too and it’s Silicone based.

**Capkelly** · 07-04-2020, 05:28 AM

Ray at his web page "Love my Rv." Tells how he accessed his valves. He replaced then with electric valve openers. I think Ray is a bit more handier than Capkelly is!

**Capkelly** · 07-07-2020, 08:55 AM

I may have helped my sticky valves. I did purchase cable spray lubrication used on motor cycles and bike cables. I also purchased a device that attaches to end of cable and allows you to inject lubricate down the cable housing, BUT this device will not work on our tyke of pull cable valve. However without taking off the dump valve cable pulls I lubricated the housing end and the cable itself. Moved it back and forth after dumping and sprayed the cable a couple more Tim's. Also started using Thetford valve lubricant. This ladt time I dumped I was happy to see much easier to pull dump valves. Mine is 2019 GD 22rbe.