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  1. #11
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    Thanks everyone. I hope the shop did a good job with the bearings. He missed sealant in spots on the roof so I do question it. I usually do my own maintenance but was worried about leaks sitting in the winter/ spring weather.

    I crawled underneath tonight and looked between the backer and drum. The pads and rest of assembly looked free from grease from what I could see. The pad are starting to get down there so it’s on my list for future projects. I have no idea how many miles the previous owner put on it.

    For now I jacked each wheel up and adjusted the brakes. They were way loose. The left side I bet I went at least 20-30 clicks. I tightened till I couldn’t turn the wheel (to make sure I was going the right way) and back off till a slight drag. Based on how much I had to adjust each wheel I have to believe that it will solve my issue.

    Next trip is Memorial weekend so unless I get a chance to pull it around the block before then I will find out then.

    Will let you all know what happens.

  2. #12
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    OK, so brakes still suck. If they are that far out of adjustment do they need to wear back in similar to the initial burn in?

    My next step is to pull some hubs and look for grease which sounds like a common issue with my Lippert setup. Will I need to replace seals if I am just pulling them to look for grease or can I take them off carefully and use the existing seals?

    If they are full of grease my plan is to replace with self adjusting along with new seals and bearings.
    2019 Chevy 3500 CC SRW Duramax
    2015 Reflection 323 BHS

  3. #13
    Big Traveler Steve7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by camper1013 View Post
    OK, so brakes still suck. If they are that far out of adjustment do they need to wear back in similar to the initial burn in?

    My next step is to pull some hubs and look for grease which sounds like a common issue with my Lippert setup. Will I need to replace seals if I am just pulling them to look for grease or can I take them off carefully and use the existing seals?

    If they are full of grease my plan is to replace with self adjusting along with new seals and bearings.
    I’ve known owners who have replaced the hubs with the same seals. But, I believe the recommended procedure is to replace the seals. Of course, if there is any reason to repack the bearings, you might as well. I hope that the shop that did it though did everything well. Let us know. You have a good plan.
    Steve & Sue (pups:Sky & Sierra) Gardnerville, Nv
    2017 Refelection 297RSTS
    2017 Ford 350 CC 4x4 Lariat Superduty 6.7, Long Bed

  4. #14
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by camper1013 View Post
    OK, so brakes still suck. If they are that far out of adjustment do they need to wear back in similar to the initial burn in?

    My next step is to pull some hubs and look for grease which sounds like a common issue with my Lippert setup. Will I need to replace seals if I am just pulling them to look for grease or can I take them off carefully and use the existing seals?

    If they are full of grease my plan is to replace with self adjusting along with new seals and bearings.
    If I am following this discussion correctly, you just paid someone to repack the bearings and then found that your brake shoes were left way loose?
    If the bearings were actually re-packed, the grease seal would have to have been removed and replaced. I would carefully remove a hub and (and as well as inspecting the brakes) check to see if you have a new rear seal. If the seal is new and in good shape, I would re-install the hub.

    From what you have described so far . . . I wouldn't be surprised to learn that the rear seal (and thus the rear bearing) was not serviced/replaced.

    Rob
    Cate & Rob
    2015 Reflection 303RLS

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cate&Rob View Post
    If I am following this discussion correctly, you just paid someone to repack the bearings and then found that your brake shoes were left way loose?
    If the bearings were actually re-packed, the grease seal would have to have been removed and replaced. I would carefully remove a hub and (and as well as inspecting the brakes) check to see if you have a new rear seal. If the seal is new and in good shape, I would re-install the hub.

    From what you have described so far . . . I wouldn't be surprised to learn that the rear seal (and thus the rear bearing) was not serviced/replaced.

    Rob
    Rob,

    Yes, I did pay to have a shop do them. I am starting to wonder if they actually pulled and repacked them, or just used the grease zerk and said good enough. I cant believe they wouldn't have adjusted the brakes, or told me if they needed to be replaced, but, who knows. I plan to pull at least one tonight and see what they look like and go from there.
    2019 Chevy 3500 CC SRW Duramax
    2015 Reflection 323 BHS

  6. #16
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by camper1013 View Post
    Rob,

    Yes, I did pay to have a shop do them. I am starting to wonder if they actually pulled and repacked them, or just used the grease zerk and said good enough. I cant believe they wouldn't have adjusted the brakes, or told me if they needed to be replaced, but, who knows. I plan to pull at least one tonight and see what they look like and go from there.
    The fact that the shoes were backed way off, would kind of indicate that they pulled the drums. This is often necessary to get the drum off the shoes. Still doesn't make sense why the shoes were not adjusted properly after the drums were reinstalled.

    Take some pictures when you have things apart!

    Rob
    Cate & Rob
    2015 Reflection 303RLS

  7. #17
    Big Traveler Steve7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by camper1013 View Post
    OK, so brakes still suck. If they are that far out of adjustment do they need to wear back in similar to the initial burn in?

    My next step is to pull some hubs and look for grease which sounds like a common issue with my Lippert setup. Will I need to replace seals if I am just pulling them to look for grease or can I take them off carefully and use the existing seals?

    If they are full of grease my plan is to replace with self adjusting along with new seals and bearings.
    While you had them in the air, or at least one of them, did you pull the break away cable to be sure electricity is going to your brakes? If you were able to manual tighten them and then back of a slight bit, they should work, unless you are not getting proper current to the magnets, or they are greased. If they were greased really bad, I would think you would have a difficult time tightening them manually. I realize the force is multiplied while driving.
    Steve & Sue (pups:Sky & Sierra) Gardnerville, Nv
    2017 Refelection 297RSTS
    2017 Ford 350 CC 4x4 Lariat Superduty 6.7, Long Bed

  8. #18
    Site Team WhittleBurner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cate&Rob View Post
    The fact that the shoes were backed way off, would kind of indicate that they pulled the drums. This is often necessary to get the drum off the shoes. Still doesn't make sense why the shoes were not adjusted properly after the drums were reinstalled.

    Take some pictures when you have things apart!

    Rob
    I agree With Rob. Sounds like they had to back the shoes off to be able to get the drum off. Could be they just forgot to adjust them back up afterwards. With the shoes back way off they will not work.
    Marcy & Gary
    2014 Grand Design - Reflection 303RLS
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  9. #19
    Big Traveler Steve7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WhittleBurner View Post
    I agree With Rob. Sounds like they had to back the shoes off to be able to get the drum off. Could be they just forgot to adjust them back up afterwards. With the shoes back way off they will not work.
    Hi Marcy,

    The OP stated he readjusted them and they still didn’t work.
    Steve & Sue (pups:Sky & Sierra) Gardnerville, Nv
    2017 Refelection 297RSTS
    2017 Ford 350 CC 4x4 Lariat Superduty 6.7, Long Bed

  10. #20
    Left The Driveway
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    Get your brakes and wiring verified.

    Next time you get ready to tow, engage the emergency brake on your controller. This will put full current to the brakes. Then try to pull forward with your truck. If the brakes are good the trailer wheels will be locked up, or at least close to that. If you can easily pull the trailer then you have defective brakes.

    There is a lot of discussion on this forum about undersized and/or poor wiring practices for the electric brakes on various GD model trailers. Lippert and Dexter axle manufacturers all state wire sizes required for these brake systems, but many have undersized wire spliced into the wiring from the trailer harness connector. You will have to do some digging to find this but you need to get your brakes working 100% and the only way to do this is sort out the wiring from the 7 pin connector all the way back to each brake drum. The minimum wire size is AWG12 all the way. You will probably find something smaller. I would find all the cheap splice connectors and get them out of the system. Crimp or solder each splice and then cover with adhesive heat shrink to seal the connection.

    I have a 2017 model 303RLS with such wiring that is being replaced now.

    Good luck.

    Click image for larger version. 

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