Bumper Weld / Reinforcement - 2150RB

[Deptacon]

The best way to do it is the way some MFG's do it. You want to run a piece of 2x2 tubing between the frame rails behind the bumper and below the bumper.
Then weld the receiver to the underside of the bumper butting into the 2x2 tubing. You'll want to add some gussets where the receiver is welded to the bumper. I would use some 2 x 2 x 1/8 x 4" long angle for the gussets.

For the bike rack, you'll want one that's RV approved so it won't bounce all over the place.

This is on our short list of options. My welder is going to come take a look next week. Somethings I have noticed:

- The rear crossbar for the frame actually runs just in front of the Bumper (and slightly above)....sits just above the cheap flimsy underbody board.

- The 2150RB bumper does have some reinforcement plate on both sides where the bar connects to the frame. Its more than a quick tack weld

- Plan right now is is a 2" receiver hitch running through the bumper itself and secured directly to the frame and bumper. Additionally, we will reinforce the bumper on both sides where the bumper crossbars attach to the frame and where those crossbars attach to the bumper.

I will take pictures of what we do

[Deptacon]

I still prefer bike racks that mount to front of camper on the a-frame; Etrailer.com has them. Bouncing does more harm than anything and with bikes on front you eliminate most of bouncing effect. If not go with BigSwick suggestion above it is best suggestion I have seen for mounting bike on rear of camper.

Cant do em up front. Planning on having Kayaks at a later date on top of the truck bed so I dont want anything hanging over the A Frame.

Im pretty much fabricating what BigSwick attached.....

[Dale G]

Once you decide how to attach your receiver hitch look into this bike rack, it is RV approved and solid. https://www.campingworld.com/dispatc...fault&start=19 I have used it for years on the back of my RV's as well as my truck and it is a great bike rack. I have not used it with the Grand Design yet because I still haven't decided what to do about the light weight bumper. I like the option that Bigswick posted from etrailer. I will have to check into that.

Dale

[Waltjg]

Not sure where most posts got their info on the 2150 bumpers but... The bumper on my 2017 2150 is made of a pretty good gauge of steel. Having worked with steel, welding and equipment for years, I fabricated a rack that sets on top of my bumper that holds my Champion 3500W generator(100lbs) and a 5gal gas can. I checked the gauge of the bumper, checked w GD and they indicated the weight capacity is 200lbs(if I remember correctly). I moved the spare to the side, added the rack and have been happily rolling down the road for the past 20k miles. This is my experience and not ‘hear say’ on the forums. You should be fine w a bicycle rack and bikes. Of course,, Your application could differ..

[Houndbb]

Not sure where most posts got their info on the 2150 bumpers but... The bumper on my 2017 2150 is made of a pretty good gauge of steel. Having worked with steel, welding and equipment for years, I fabricated a rack that sets on top of my bumper that holds my Champion 3500W generator(100lbs) and a 5gal gas can. I checked the gauge of the bumper, checked w GD and they indicated the weight capacity is 200lbs(if I remember correctly). I moved the spare to the side, added the rack and have been happily rolling down the road for the past 20k miles. This is my experience and not ‘hear say’ on the forums. You should be fine w a bicycle rack and bikes. Of course,, Your application could differ..

I want to believe this is true. We’ve hauled our two bikes on the bumper of our 2150 for about two years now. However, we do notice the bouncing and it’s possible that over time, the worst COULD happen. So, we apply a safety ratchet strap, wrapped twice around the main upright of the bike rack, and wrapped around the top horizontal, ladder attachment. It doesn’t hold anything up, but if the worst happens, folks behind us will not be eating our bikes. Yes, we realize that there might be more damage to our own trailer, but it’s better than damaging someone else’s vehicle, or worse, causing injuries.
N

[jbarnes4868]

Our 2014 I mounted a three bike rack on the bumper. 100 miles later I had three bikes and the bumper in the bed of my truck. Welds didn’t break it just ripped the bumper off. I guess too much leverage.

[Roll With The Changes]

On my last rig that I just traded for my Solitude, I completely rebuilt the bumper.

Removed all the factory stuff first. Welded a piece of 2 x 4 x 3/16 wall tube on the bottom of each frame raiI (vertically). I had about a foot of contact on each rail. This is strong but still has a weakness. This is how my Solitude bumper is attached. There is a foot of weld at four locations this way, but the load is concentrated only at the end of each weld. A small crack at the end of the weld can propagate very quickly and the entire weld can fail. What I did on the other one was build up the web area of the IBeam at the end of the frame rail. I think I used 1 inch square stock. Then I added a strap (1 1/2 x 3/16 flat bar) vertically the full height of the frame rail and tube below. (Both sides, both frame rails) What that does is put the vertical welds in a shear load instead of tension. This way, the welds must fail completely in order to fail instead of a crack propagating.

Then I could easily weld on the new bumper. I think I used 3 x 3 x 3/16 wall. The reason I built it so heavy was to carry my 300 lb generator and gas cans. It worked out well. It was probably overkill, but I didn't think things falling off was a good option.

I know that explanation got long and if it wasn't very clear, let me know and I'll draw it up. And I also know that this may be more involved than you want to get, but you might incorporate some of the ideas.

Good luck

[VociferousSky]

On my last rig that I just traded for my Solitude, I completely rebuilt the bumper.

Removed all the factory stuff first. Welded a piece of 2 x 4 x 3/16 wall tube on the bottom of each frame raiI (vertically). I had about a foot of contact on each rail. This is strong but still has a weakness. This is how my Solitude bumper is attached. There is a foot of weld at four locations this way, but the load is concentrated only at the end of each weld. A small crack at the end of the weld can propagate very quickly and the entire weld can fail. What I did on the other one was build up the web area of the IBeam at the end of the frame rail. I think I used 1 inch square stock. Then I added a strap (1 1/2 x 3/16 flat bar) vertically the full height of the frame rail and tube below. (Both sides, both frame rails) What that does is put the vertical welds in a shear load instead of tension. This way, the welds must fail completely in order to fail instead of a crack propagating.

Then I could easily weld on the new bumper. I think I used 3 x 3 x 3/16 wall. The reason I built it so heavy was to carry my 300 lb generator and gas cans. It worked out well. It was probably overkill, but I didn't think things falling off was a good option.

I know that explanation got long and if it wasn't very clear, let me know and I'll draw it up. And I also know that this may be more involved than you want to get, but you might incorporate some of the ideas.

Good luck

I am starting down this path once I get home from the holiday weekend. I also have a 250lb generator and other items I’d like to be able to build this tray to support. Pictures, drawings and/or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Chris


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[jbarnes4868]

Here’s what I did.

[Roll With The Changes]

This is the best I could do for a drawing. I'm in the woods, drawing on paper, taking pictures with my phone and uploading to the world.... How cool is that!

Anyway, this shows what I described above. The dimensions of the parts are not as critical as the way it is put together. 3/16 is close to the thickness of the frame rail itself (which is pretty thin), so what is most important is the attachment method. As described above, the vertical weld on the "strap" is what carries the load. There are many ways to do this, but what we are trying to avoid is this:



This image is an exaggeration of the failure mode of this connection. Try to visualize how the weld could "unzip" if a crack develops at the stress point.

Your situation will be unique. This is just a general description of how loads are transferred in a welded assembly such as this. If this isn't clear or you want to show your plan, send me a PM and I will give my humble, unofficial opinion.