Adding subpanel for inverter-only circuits. Need help with some questions.

[andrewssteve]

I'm planning to pull a 20A circuit out of my main power distribution panel and feed it to my AIMS 1500 watt pure sign wave inverter/charger w/ built-in automatic transfer switch. I plan to run a new 20A circuit from the inverter output to a new sub-panel that powers just those circuits I want powered by the inverter: GFCI, living room/bedroom outlets, TV, ... all 15A circuits. AIMS has verified that the concept should work.

The main power distribution panel is absolutely full and the most crowded panel I've ever seen. Not a single spare circuit -- a knitting job of incoming wires. My problem is i need room to maneuver and work.

I was thinking to disconnect some of the unused 20A circuits (and remove the associated breakers) from the main panel so I'd have more room to get to the circuits I want to move over to the sub-panel.

I have 7 20A circuits in the main panel, labeled as follows: AC1, AC2, Washer, Dryer, Dishwasher, Converter1, and Converter2.

Washer, Dryer, and Converter2 are wired but not used. (Converter1 won't be used as soon as I hard-wire the inverter.) Can I just disconnect these circuits (hot, common, and ground) from the main distribution panel, shrink wrap the stripped ends, label them, bundle them up, and let them be?

[andrewssteve]

For the record, I misspoke about Converter2. It's actually (mis)labeled Optional Inverter, it's 15A, and it provides power to the Hutch, bedside, and bed-foot outlets.

[ncitro]

I also found my panel was jammed full from the factory. I went the opposite route and installed a new main panel, and fed my Magnum inverter with built in transfer off of that. Then I took the output of the inverter and fed it as the input to the stock panel. I put everything I did not want on the inverter (A/c 1&2, fridge, HWH) on the new panel, and everything I did want running on the inverter got left on the stock panel. The romex that feeds the stock panel had miles of extra length, so I just pulled the ones I wanted down into the pass through storage and mounted the new main panel there.

[andrewssteve]

I went the opposite route and installed a new main panel. . .

Uh oh. Sounds like a good approach, but I already bought the new sub-panel and wired an EMS into the OEM distribution panel. Thinking. . .

[ncitro]

Uh oh. Sounds like a good approach, but I already bought the new sub-panel and wired an EMS into the OEM distribution panel. Thinking. . .

The panel in my picture was just a subpanel. I used the first two breakers in it as a main (allowed in the manual, check yours), and I hardwired an EMS into it as well. I would think you should be able to use everything you have, just cost some more time.

Your intended way should work with no issue as well, I just wanted to point out another option.

[traveldawg]

I removed the factory 1000W inverter and installed a Xntrex 2000W inverter and a new sub panel. I pulled 4 circuits from my main panel (including the refrigerator that was the only circuit on the original inverter). Now all my 120V receptacles are on my inverter. I'm pretty sure I have a post of my changes someplace on this site. I also removed the 2 original 12v wet cell batteries and put in 4 6V AGMs.

[andrewssteve]

I'm pretty sure I have a post of my changes someplace on this site.

Found the post:
https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...ferrerid=15013

Any advice on extracting\unhooking the 15A circuit wires -- especially the first couple of them -- from such a crowded main distribution panel space. My plan is just one complete circuit at the time, screw driver, needle nose pliers, and a label on the wire once extracted.

What makes me nervous is once started, I don't think I'll be able to go back. Too much like knitting. . .

[goducks14]

Just curious why you guys with inverters and ATS aren't wiring it directly to the main panel? No need to remove and separate breakers unless you want to add more outlets for something. When switching from shore to inverter the ATS will do it for you. Only thing to do is turn off the converter charger. All outlets will run off the inverter.
I know I'm missing something, just curious.

[traveldawg]

Since you read my original post some of this is redundant. But I hope it helps. It really wasn't as hard as you'd expect looking at that main panel. As I recall all had a different color romex-like cable although I labeled each one as I pulled it.

I had a friend helping so I was inside at the main panel and he was pulling the cables back one by one in the basement as I disconnected them. I removed the main panel from inside and worked on it from there; because of the extra cable GD left (all RVs seem to be like that) I could pull the panel out enough to get to the back OK. I pulled the breakers and disconnected the wires. yes - maybe tight, but got to all OK.

Getting the new feed from the main panel to the inverter wasn't hard either. Again, just some poking around in the main panel to wire in the breaker.

As for an ATS - I'm thinking that an Automatic Transfer Switch..... I installed a transfer switch after my surge Protector which is fed directly from my shore power (did you see my post on the automatic reel I installed?). The other side of the transfer switch is fed from a separate 30a feed that goes out to my pin box where I plug in my Honda generators if/when needed.

Hope all this makes sense and helps.

[ncitro]

Just curious why you guys with inverters and ATS aren't wiring it directly to the main panel? No need to remove and separate breakers unless you want to add more outlets for something. When switching from shore to inverter the ATS will do it for you. Only thing to do is turn off the converter charger. All outlets will run off the inverter.
I know I'm missing something, just curious.

In my particular case the pass through of the ATS was only rated at 30 amps, so I needed to split off the non-inverter loads (A/C, Fridge, and HWH) so the inverters pass through ATS did not draw too much. I could have gone with a bigger inverter but mine was expensive enough as it was, or an external ATS rated for 50 amps, but I figured there was no need since I would not need to run those items off the inverter anyway.