User Tag List

Page 3 of 6 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 54
  1. #21
    Left The Driveway
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Posts
    5
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by DirtDawg View Post
    Interesting graph in post #2 by Rob, however I'd differ whether the V6 on steroids is the optimal F150 engine config. For most, its irrelevant since few were produced outside of Raptor model, however my own perspective is that the 6.2L reigns supreme on < 2015 F150 trucks before FoMoCo decided to pursue even more Kool-Aid intake by dropping that engine in combo with introduction of the lighter aluminum bodied F150 trucks that model year. I'm (relatively) active on the F150 Forums and have read more than enough about EcoBoost reliability issues not covered beyond the standard warranty period. No such reports on the largest displacement normally aspirated 6.2L offered until then. The 6.2L (in milder than Raptor state of tune) remains base gasoline engine for F250 and higher trucks with no EcoBoost available.

    I special ordered my own as "overkill" TV for formerly owned TTs listed in combo with MaxTow Pkg and 3.73 final gearing. IMO, its a wonderful truck plus with OEM Raptor exhaust system installed sounds like no "common" F150. Nonetheless, the chassis on F150 or any other half ton truck is over-matched by payload and/or pin-weight of most Grand Design RVs. My 337RLS was towed to RV park site by my buddy (forum member) where it will be left in place during course of my ownership. No way I'll be selling my own unique truck. Point in all of this being, if in doubt - "go bigger"...
    I agree, there's no replacement for displacement!

  2. #22
    Seasoned Camper Rovers's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    NE Oho
    Posts
    147
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    The only way to really tell if the WDH is doing its job is to use a CAT or similar scale at a truck stop.

    The truck should be weighed alone and front/steer and rear/drive axle weights noted. Then weigh the truck and TT hitched together with the WDH installed. When the WDH is dialed in correctly the weight on the front or steer axle of the truck will be very close to the empty or unhitched weight. Assuming the WDH has integrated sway control, the added benefit of a properly adjusted hitch is the anti-sway properties are enhanced and the truck/TT combo is much more solid and confidence inspiring when traveling down the road.

    To get the tongue weight take the difference between the truck’s empty and loaded axle weights and then do the math to determine what percentage that figure is compared to the TT’s loaded weight. Should be around 12%.

    In my opinion using fender height alone is only part of the equation to get the WDH set up properly and effectively. Using at CAT scale is well worth the $20 and 45 minutes of your time to ensure your family’s safety.

    Bob

  3. #23
    Site Sponsor Dale G's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Jackson, MO
    Posts
    526
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by kenc1325 View Post
    We are new to a pull trailer I have a F150 3.5 ecoboost . The trailer is a 2670 Mk dry weight 6600 LBS, gross wt. just over 8000 LBS , I have the weight distribution bars and anti sway bar. It feels like the truck wants to wonder to much and I don't like the way the front end feels. The weight that my truck is registered to tow is 12000 LBS . I had the 3.55 rear end and 20 inch tires . but when I am going down the highway it feels like the trailer is too much for the truck or the truck is too light to handle it. I am now thinking I made a mistake and should have gone with a F250. Would appreciate any thoughts on this ./
    Thank you
    Ken C
    Ken,
    I have the same trailer and tow it with a 2015 F-150 Lariat, 3.5L Ecoboost, 3.55 gears, Super Crew with 5 1/2' bed, trailer tow package, 36 gallon tank. We originally had a smaller Jayco Whitehawk and used a Husky WD hitch. This setup was great and the truck never new the trailer was back there. Then we upgraded to the GD 2670MK and the fun began. My fully loaded weight, ready to go camping, is right at 8000lbs with a tongue weight just under 1000lbs. That gives me about a 12% tongue weight ratio which this trailer does good with a heavier tongue weight. The first trip out it became evident very quickly that the Husky hitch was not up to the task of handling the bigger trailer with such a light tow vehicle. We had to tow at a drastically reduced speed and if it was windy and a lot of trucks it would actually set off the trucks anti-sway system. I finally got it tamed and now it tows great and I can set the speed at 67 and actually enjoy the trip. It can handle faster speeds if necessary for passing, but it seems to like 65 to 67 best but will do 70 all day if necessary and the winds are not too strong.

    This is what I have done to help have a safer tow. I replaced the "P" rated Goodyear tires with LT Michelin Defender LTX tires, installed a Timbren SES System on the truck (this replaces your axle bumper stops and engages when a load is added to the truck and really adds stability), and I installed the Propride 3P hitch. The hitch took a little while to get the right setup but the owner of the company, Sean, is great to work with and will help work through any problem. What we found out is that if you use Ford's recommendation for setting up the Propride the front of the truck is too light and will want to wander and the truck will not be planted solid enough. Once I realized this and got more weight shifted to the truck it started handling a lot better. Now the truck feels solid and it doesn't feel like the trailer is throwing it around. We were able to accomplish this by putting an extra spacer washer on the head to tilt the stinger down a little further. Then I crank up the towers until the front fender is back to the before loaded measurement or a little lower, maybe 1/8" lower. This gives the truck a nice level attitude and really makes it feel solid and planted while towing. Now the big trucks don't induce trailer sway like they used to. You will still get a little nudge but the truck stays planted and does not let it develop into anything else. If there is a strong crosswind I just slow down and all is good.

    Another thing I have done to help is I replaced the Westlake Trailer tires with Goodyear Endurance. I haven't had the chance to tow with them but some have reported that the stronger sidewalls help reduce big truck suck. We will see in a month when we go out again.

    These improvements are not cheap but they are a lot cheaper than a new truck and I really didn't want to get rid of my F-150, it fits in the garage. Good luck.

    Dale
    Dale & Tammy
    Retired U. S Army and Retired Helicopter Pilot
    2021 Ford F-350, 6.7L Diesel, 4x4, Lariat Ultimate
    2018 Grand Design Imagine 2670MK (sold)
    2022 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS

  4. #24
    Setting Up Camp
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Posts
    29
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks for all the help with the replies I have traveled with the trailer with the max. air pressure in the tires ( wranglers 275/55/20) and noticed a big difference in the handling . But when i think of the money i have to spend to beef up the 150 new tires,another leaf and and new hitch , you still have a 150 , but now you have a 150 trying to be a 250 . I think I will be going the 250 route and then you know you have enough truck.

    Ken
    2670 MK
    Wellan, ONtario

  5. #25
    Setting Up Camp
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Posts
    29
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Dale G View Post
    Ken,
    I have the same trailer and tow it with a 2015 F-150 Lariat, 3.5L Ecoboost, 3.55 gears, Super Crew with 5 1/2' bed, trailer tow package, 36 gallon tank. We originally had a smaller Jayco Whitehawk and used a Husky WD hitch. This setup was great and the truck never new the trailer was back there. Then we upgraded to the GD 2670MK and the fun began. My fully loaded weight, ready to go camping, is right at 8000lbs with a tongue weight just under 1000lbs. That gives me about a 12% tongue weight ratio which this trailer does good with a heavier tongue weight. The first trip out it became evident very quickly that the Husky hitch was not up to the task of handling the bigger trailer with such a light tow vehicle. We had to tow at a drastically reduced speed and if it was windy and a lot of trucks it would actually set off the trucks anti-sway system. I finally got it tamed and now it tows great and I can set the speed at 67 and actually enjoy the trip. It can handle faster speeds if necessary for passing, but it seems to like 65 to 67 best but will do 70 all day if necessary and the winds are not too strong.

    This is what I have done to help have a safer tow. I replaced the "P" rated Goodyear tires with LT Michelin Defender LTX tires, installed a Timbren SES System on the truck (this replaces your axle bumper stops and engages when a load is added to the truck and really adds stability), and I installed the Propride 3P hitch. The hitch took a little while to get the right setup but the owner of the company, Sean, is great to work with and will help work through any problem. What we found out is that if you use Ford's recommendation for setting up the Propride the front of the truck is too light and will want to wander and the truck will not be planted solid enough. Once I realized this and got more weight shifted to the truck it started handling a lot better. Now the truck feels solid and it doesn't feel like the trailer is throwing it around. We were able to accomplish this by putting an extra spacer washer on the head to tilt the stinger down a little further. Then I crank up the towers until the front fender is back to the before loaded measurement or a little lower, maybe 1/8" lower. This gives the truck a nice level attitude and really makes it feel solid and planted while towing. Now the big trucks don't induce trailer sway like they used to. You will still get a little nudge but the truck stays planted and does not let it develop into anything else. If there is a strong crosswind I just slow down and all is good.

    Another thing I have done to help is I replaced the Westlake Trailer tires with Goodyear Endurance. I haven't had the chance to tow with them but some have reported that the stronger sidewalls help reduce big truck suck. We will see in a month when we go out again.

    These improvements are not cheap but they are a lot cheaper than a new truck and I really didn't want to get rid of my F-150, it fits in the garage. Good luck.

    Dale
    Thanks for your reply but the cost to up grade the truck i think i will be going the 250 route.

  6. #26
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    8,880
    Mentioned
    85 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by kenc1325 View Post
    Thanks for your reply but the cost to up grade the truck i think i will be going the 250 route.
    Ken,

    95% of your driving is likely “not towing”. Consider whether you want to do this with an F250 or an F150.

    Rob
    Cate & Rob
    2015 Reflection 303RLS

  7. #27
    Site Sponsor
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    7
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I see several good responses and good advise. I will tell you what I did when I had your similar situation. 2018 Ford F150 crewcab 3.5, 3.55 with tow package pulling a GD 2950RL, which gets a little closer to 9000lb. However, if you are using this thread to convince yourself to go the F250 route, well, all this talk really does not make any difference

    First, as others suggested inflate your tires closer to max. That takes some of the spongy out of the sidewalls. Improved the situation 25%. Second, put airbags on the truck. Does not increase the payload capacity, but even with a good weight distribution hitch helps get you back to level. That takes some of that soft feeling out of the frontend, improved another 25%. Third, and the big one, install a Hensley style hitch, mine was from ProPride. That took the situation the next 50% and made it a pleasure to tow. No more truck passing you issues. No more concern about towing in the wind. When the wind blows or trucks pass you may still get some movement. But the truck and trailer move as a unit, not the truck going one way and the trailer another. It is more like towing a 5th wheel. If you are not familiar search for videos on the Hensley theory. The hitch does come with a high cost, but you will not believe the difference.

    Last thought on the F150. If you like to tow in the mountains, none of this gets you around the issue of the trailer pushing you down the mountain. I found that the F150 was great on the flats. It was even great towing up mountains. But that truck is relatively light and even with tow haul it can be tricky coming down. You always need to be cautious coming down mountains, however though tow haul works on that truck, because of the small engine displacement, you will aways need to be particularly cautious going down. It becomes a balance of brakes and high engine RPMs.

  8. #28
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    8,880
    Mentioned
    85 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by skip2it View Post
    Last thought on the F150. If you like to tow in the mountains, none of this gets you around the issue of the trailer pushing you down the mountain.
    Putting hydraulic disc brakes on the trailer ($2000) will solve this concern.

    Rob
    Cate & Rob
    2015 Reflection 303RLS

  9. #29
    Full Timer warsw1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Central Oregon
    Posts
    573
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    This is interesting stuff. It seems like some of the opinions are derived more from conjecture than experience. Back in the early 70s I had a one-ton international 4x4 with the 392 V8. At that time, it was considered the ultimate tow truck. Back then I had a 4-horse trailer and was hauling horses all over the North West. The trailer, loaded up was right at 10K. That truck did a great job hauling that trailer. The point of all of this is that the so called 1/2 truck of today is way more capable than the one-ton truck of yesterday. They are heavier, have a longer wheel base, bigger/better brakes, stronger frame and way more power. I have hauled trailers of all kinds, over thousands and thousands of miles with a 1/2-ton truck and have found that a properly set up 1/2-ton PU makes a great tow truck. Those that say a ½ ton is not a good tow truck and should never be used for one, have either never ever used one for towing or they didn’t know how or didn’t take the time to set it up right.

    Rob is right that the first and best thing to start getting a ½ ton PU worthy of towing is to make sure it is running E rated LT tires. The next thing to look at is the suspension. In todays world we all want a truck that will do mega work but we are now a bunch of wimps and also want it to have a Cadillac ride. Because of this all the trucks, ½ ton to dully, need help with their suspension. From that point just let it morph.

    I think the 1/2 ton you have is a really good start for the trailer you have. I would just do a few things to make it a better tow truck. I'm sure you will be happy.
    Last edited by warsw1; 06-19-2019 at 11:31 PM.
    Randy & Sharon (Went full time April 14th 2017)

    2016 Ram CC SB Outdoorsman 4x4 CTD
    Michelin 295/70R18
    Fold-A-Cover G4 tonneau,
    Dee Zee truck bed mat,
    Dee Zee tailgate assist,
    Dodge Ram 4x4 Steering Gear Box Brace
    Fumoto oil drain valve,
    Husky floor liners,
    WeatherTech No Drill Mud Flaps,
    Firestone Ride-Rite Suspension Kit
    Reece Pro Series 20K lb 5th wheel hitch

    2018 Solitude 375res
    8K lb axles, springs & hubs with Nev-R-Lube bearings
    MORryde HD shackle kit with brass bushings & wet bolts
    Reece Sidewinder 19K lb pin box.

  10. #30
    Seasoned Camper Rovers's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    NE Oho
    Posts
    147
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by warsw1 View Post
    This is interesting stuff. It seems like some of the opinions are derived more from conjecture than experience. Back in the early 70s I had a one-ton international 4x4 with the 392 V8. At that time, it was considered the ultimate tow truck. Back then I had a 4-horse trailer and was hauling horses all over the North West. The trailer, loaded up was right at 10K. That truck did a great job hauling that trailer. The point of all of this is that the so called 1/2 truck of today is way more capable than the one-ton truck of yesterday. They are heavier, have a longer wheel base, bigger/better brakes, stronger frame and way more power. I have hauled trailers of all kinds, over thousands and thousands of miles with a 1/2-ton truck and have found that a properly set up 1/2-ton PU makes a great tow truck. Those that say a ½ ton is not a good tow truck and should never be used for one, have either never ever used one for towing or they didn’t know how or didn’t take the time to set it up right.

    Rob is right that the first and best thing to start getting a ½ ton PU worthy of towing is to make sure it is running E rated LT tires. The next thing to look at is the suspension. In todays world we all want a truck that will do mega work but we are now a bunch of wimps and also want it to have a Cadillac ride. Because of this all the trucks, ½ ton to dully, need help with their suspension. From that point just let it morph.

    I think the 1/2 ton you have is a really good start for the trailer you have. I would just do a few things to make it a better tow truck. I'm sure you will be happy.

    Randy, couldn't agree more and have expressed similar thoughts on the Ram truck forum I'm part of.

    Today's 1/2 ton trucks - when compared to 1/2 tons from 10 or 12 years ago - look like 3/4 tons when side by side. Given the lawsuit-happy culture we live in there's no way manufacturers would advertise the towing capacities they do given that lawyers and the NHTSA are poring over every detail of every vehicle on the road. If there's even a hint of potential failure of a vehicle in it's intended and advertised use the manufacturer would be in court in a heartbeat.

    To the original poster of this thread... You don't need a 250 to haul your trailer! Your truck will tow that trailer fine and you don't need to spend a ton of money to improve the towing comfort of your F150. Frankly your weight distribution hitch is not set up properly and/or does not have the proper spring bars for the size trailer. About an hour of your time and a couple of adjustments and your ride, stability and comfort will go way up. Spending a LOT more money on a F250 is unnecessary and frankly a waste given the tow vehicle you already have.

    You've optioned the truck properly, now set up the hitch and you're set. Tell us which hitch you have, the weight rating of the spring bars and whether sway control is integrated or a separate unit and we'll help you get dialed in. It's your money, but buying an F250 doesn't preclude you from having to set up a WDH, the brakes, etc. It's a bigger truck but still needs set up for your trailer.

    Bob
    Last edited by Rovers; 06-20-2019 at 10:51 AM.

Page 3 of 6 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

DISCLAIMER:This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Grand Design RV, LLC or any of its affiliates. This is an independent site.