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  1. #11
    Seasoned Camper Da Breeze's Avatar
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    When I drop the front landing gear, I have to raise the front in order to take the weight off the truck for unhitching. There's no way that we're going to attempt to unhitch after only dropping the front landing gear.
    I've noticed, that, after dropping front gear, then raising the nose enough to unhitch, when I hit auto-level it will drop the nose down before starting the rear gear dropping.[/QUOTE]


    Well, I don't have that experience, with the front nose dipping before auto leveling begins.....unless the nose was high in relation to the trailer to begin with ??
    But, then again, I don't have one of the super high rear ends common on most late model trucks, so maybe that's why I can unhitch by just grounding the front jacks ?

    My rig hooks up and runs level without much adjustment.

    Michael
    Previously known as mikgala

    F-250 7.3 PSD Lariat Super Cab LB wt 152K - 25 row Ford tranny cooler, A&E Air Intake system, TS-6 high performance Super Chip, Air Ride airbags, Bilstein shocks

    2017 Reflection 307 MKS 9,875 UVW / 12,995 GVWR / 1,605 Pin

    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  2. #12
    Fireside Member Andy+Mo's Avatar
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    I am going to reset the Zero Point Calibration. I have set up the trailer. It leveled just fine. I checked the level manually and it seems okay. I was gonna run zero point calibration but the camper seems kind of high. The tires are on the ground but there is not much weight on them? Like almost none. Here is a picture. Does this seem high?
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    Last edited by Andy+Mo; 06-28-2019 at 03:24 PM.

  3. #13
    Seasoned Camper
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    I've had mine re calibrated twice and it still will not raise it up to the correct pitch height. Mine goes down 4" below the height that I need it to be every time. Recalibration, from what I am told, simply is to recalibrate to level.

  4. #14
    Seasoned Camper
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    Mine goes 4in below what I unhitched at every time. No matter if I raise it way up high after I unhitch or not. I almost think it's a factory setting thing.

  5. #15
    Site Sponsor
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    For what it's worth, here's how it works on our 29RS 5er.

    I drop the front landing feet manually to see 7 holes in the landing gear leg. Then I use the GC 3.0 to "ground" the front legs. I used to lower them by pushing the button. But too often the ground is an inch or so different level, so one leg will hit the ground and the other does not. By using the 3.0 to ground the front legs, the computer extends each leg and does a mild left to right leveling job. Once the grounding procedure is done, I use the button to manually extend both legs simultaneously enough to raise the coupler off the ball of the Andersen hitch. On a regular hitch you would raise it to the point you can drive the truck out. I lift it an inch or two above the ball.

    Pull the truck forward. This is the point I want it to return to when it's time to hook up. The nose of the trailer must be above level for auto-level to work. The next thing I do is hit the auto level button. The nose lowers to level the trailer front to back, then the rear legs lower and ground, and then the computer does it's adjustment dance to fine tune level.

    When it's time to leave I hit auto re-connect. The rear legs retract and then the front legs extend to the point it began, that is an inch or two higher than the ball.

    I did read somewhere that if you make any adjustment after the computer levels the rig, this initial starting point is lost.

    By the way, I put 4x6 under the front legs and 2x6 under the back. The only reason I'm using 2x6 is because I don't have any more 4x6.

    Mike

  6. #16
    Seasoned Camper
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    That's pretty much exactly what I do too. But When I press auto reconnect is consistently goes 4" under the hitch level. Someone else recommended I try bypassing the grounding front legs section and just doing it manually. I tried that and it did the same exact thing 4" too low. Someone else recommended I raise the height manually after I unhook, I did that to about 1 and a 1/2 feet(very nose high) above the hitch, and it's still wanted to reconnect 4" below the top of the hitch.

  7. #17
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    Have you tried putting a mark on one of the front legs to see exactly the difference in height? When I was new at this, which is not that long ago, I used a Sharpee and drew a line when I was inch or two above the ball. As I learned to use the auto re-connect I could the 5er returning to nearly the identical place. With yours acting oddly it would be interesting to see if you raise it consistently to the same spot to disconnect and if the GC3 is returning it consistently to the same wrong spot.

    Mike

  8. #18
    Seasoned Camper
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    After I relive the weight off the truck and pull the truck out, I use a weighted string with a magnetic attached under the center of the front compartment. Then press auto level. Everything works great until I press the auto reconnect. Then, no matter how unlevel or level the site was, it returns to the same almost exact height. 4 inches under the height of the hitch. Two different shops say thats just the way it works and will not replace it. One shop said Lippard will not authorize the repair. It has to be 100% not working to warranty first.

  9. #19
    Rolling Along
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    There is something definitely wrong with your system. I would call Lippert directly. Maybe there's a way to do a total reset of the system and clear the error.

    Clearly yours is not working like many of ours is.

    Mike
    Im Mike Willoughby, and I approve this message.
    2017 Ram 3500 CTD (aka FRAM)
    2019 Grand Design Reflection 367BHS

  10. #20
    Site Sponsor
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    After I relive the weight off the truck and pull the truck out, I use a weighted string with a magnetic attached under the center of the front compartment. Then press auto level. Everything works great until I press the auto reconnect. Then, no matter how unlevel or level the site was, it returns to the same almost exact height. 4 inches under the height of the hitch. Two different shops say thats just the way it works and will not replace it. One shop said Lippard will not authorize the repair. It has to be 100% not working to warranty first.
    Interesting the consistency, bummer the lack of resolution from the shops. Have you called or emailed directly with GD?

    Also, have you tried pressing the left and right arrow keys simultaneously in lieu of the menu item "auto re-connect"? Do you get the same result with that method?

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