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Thread: Batteries, Generators
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07-02-2019, 04:21 PM #11
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What a battery needs from a converter (aka "charger") varies from battery to battery, especially if it is a lithium. Decide on the battery first, then ask the battery manufacturer (or supplier) about the charger.
If you just get a second lead-acid (wired in parallel with your existing battery), the OEM converter should work fine. (Though slowly!)
A couple of notes:
1) Don't wait too long to get a second lead-acid if that's your plan. Mixing batteries of different ages is not a good idea. (The old one will quickly kill the new one.)
2) Your 337 manual instructs to disconnect the negative end of the battery when storing for long periods. Even with the battery disconnect set to "disconnect" (no 12v power to the trailer) the smoke detector, carbon monoxide detector, and emergency brake disconnect are still powered. It will take longer, but they will kill your battery over a time, too.
3) You might find this thread interesting: https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...your-Batteries2017 Ford F-350 DRW 6.7L Platinum
2019 315RLTS (purchased 16 Jul 18 from Campers Inn RV in Byron, GA)
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07-02-2019, 05:18 PM #12
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Hi Howard,
I'm going to sound like a newbie here, but I just watched a GD video on camping on 30 amps service wt a 50 amp rig.... and I must say I am confused.
It says when plugging into 30 amp circuit, the power converter goes into bulk charge mode for a few hours, and the video states NOT to run the A/C until that time is up.
I did a thorough SEARCH on this site and could find no real reference to this requirement ??
How should I know what "time" this refers to ?? IDK what this means ??
About every ten days, I visit my RV in outside storage, here in SE Florida.
My battery usually tests about 12.4 or higher before I start the generators, but I don't wait two hrs. to put a load on the rig.
I power up my two Honda EU 2200i gennies, run the slides out, then run ONE A/C for a couple of hours while I check out the rest of the trailer, for maintenance.
When I leave the battery registers about 12.7, and I always disconnect both leads from the battery.
My question is, Have I done any damage to my converter with this procedure ??
I've been doing this for years and never gave it a second thought...
Admittedly...I've NEVER tripped a breaker, run down a battery to discharge, or had any other type of electrical issue in all my years, and I've done some long term and far-reaching travels.
Thoughts ??
Thank You for any assistance,
MichaelPreviously known as mikgala
F-250 7.3 PSD Lariat Super Cab LB wt 152K - 25 row Ford tranny cooler, A&E Air Intake system, TS-6 high performance Super Chip, Air Ride airbags, Bilstein shocks
2017 Reflection 307 MKS 9,875 UVW / 12,995 GVWR / 1,605 Pin
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07-02-2019, 05:43 PM #13
No you're not doing any damage. There's no reason you can't run the air and bulk charge at the same time. That's what 30amp trailers do all the time. 30amp works just the same on a 50amp trailer. You just can't run as much stuff at the same time on 30amp as you can on 50amp
2018 Reflection 315RLTS
2023 F350 Lariat 6.7L/CC/LB/FX4
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07-02-2019, 06:43 PM #14
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07-02-2019, 06:47 PM #15
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315RLTSinPA is right. Emily didn't explain that very well...the converter going into "bulk" charging mode is due to the battery (or batteries) requiring a charge. The converter has no idea the RV is only connected to 30A service--all it knows is 120VAC is available so it's going to try and charge the batteries.
I suspect what Emily is attempting to convey is that when the converter is charging the battery (or batteries), a significant portion of the 30A available from the campground pedestal is being used so there is a lot less available for heavy loads like air conditioners or microwave ovens. Using the example from the video, if the converter is drawing 15A then only 15A is left before the pedestal breaker will (probably) open. Turn on two air conditioner units (with the converter in bulk mode) and it will definitely overwhelm the pedestal.
It's just simple math--you can't exceed drawing 30A even though your coach is capable of (theoretically) 100A on two separate 50A circuits.
Does that make sense?2017 Ford F-350 DRW 6.7L Platinum
2019 315RLTS (purchased 16 Jul 18 from Campers Inn RV in Byron, GA)
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07-03-2019, 11:37 AM #16
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Thanks Howard,
Of course it makes sense.... as I am very well aware of the electrical limitations contingent with a 50 amp rig on a 30 amp supply.
I've done plenty of boon-docking to grasp that basic concept (with my dual Honda's EU 2200i).
My question then concerns, as stated, WHY would a "bulk charge mode" consume 15 amps when the battery has not been depleted much beyond the battery AH capacity OR is fully charged as is the case most times, in my instance ????
And if one wanted to use the A/C immediately WHY would Emily also recommend to turn off the breaker to the converter if you do not want that draw to occur ??
That is something I've NEVER heard of doing, much less do, and I've never had that breaker trip for any purported overdraw beyond 30 amps !!
As 315 states...30 amp trailers do this all the time and the only thing I've always known is NOT to run two A/C's, while on 30 amp service, which has been protocol.
My EMS PT50X management system shows a 15.7 amp draw on 15K A/C running compressor , NOT start up draw....so the video math on bulk draw should trip a breaker , but does not so something isn't correct ?
These are the questions I'm seeking answers to....
Thanks,
MichaelPreviously known as mikgala
F-250 7.3 PSD Lariat Super Cab LB wt 152K - 25 row Ford tranny cooler, A&E Air Intake system, TS-6 high performance Super Chip, Air Ride airbags, Bilstein shocks
2017 Reflection 307 MKS 9,875 UVW / 12,995 GVWR / 1,605 Pin
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07-03-2019, 01:35 PM #17
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If the battery doesn't require a charge (your case) the converter won't go into bulk mode.
I can only guess that at least one owner with a weak battery disconnected from their TV, ran out slides and used the power tongue jack prior to connecting power. In this case the battery WILL need a charge. Connect shore power and bingo--the converter does its thing.
Take the numbers from the manual as gospel for a moment. According to the Reflection owners manual, 8 amps will be drawn by the Converter when it is in use (page 85). Now fire up an air conditioner (18 amps) and pop a bag of popcorn in the microwave (12 amps) --a properly wired and functional 30A pedestal circuit breaker will open since the load is now 38 amps.
I know the previous paragraph is oversimplified and there's lots of variables.
Bottom line--when on a 30A site with a 50A trailer, the RV's load requirement cannot be more than 30A. Again--I'm not speaking for Emily or GD--but I suspect she was trying to convey a "hidden" power draw (the converter) that most owners are not aware of and don't normally think about since they are usually at a 50A site. Not everyone is as knowledgeable about their power draw as you are, Michael.
Hope that helps.2017 Ford F-350 DRW 6.7L Platinum
2019 315RLTS (purchased 16 Jul 18 from Campers Inn RV in Byron, GA)
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07-03-2019, 02:42 PM #18
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I don't have any insights on how many amps a stock converter uses.
I see my lithium converter charge up when I reconnect my batteries at storage after being disconncted a couple of weeks, usually just a couple of minutes.
Ran off DC for a few hours yesterday while working at storage.
Turned the converter on to recharge the batteries, took about 15 minutes till the amps dropped to 0.
The converter AC amps were ~10.5A, the HW50C was showing 15A.
The charging DC amps were about 60A DC.
Older photo showing amps. The 120V at storage drop down since I'm on shared outlets & an extension cord.
- Gene
Kim & Gene
2015 Reflection 317RST
2017 Ram 3500 CC LB 4x2 6.7 CTD AISIN 3.73 DRW Auto Level Rear Air, BD3, Prodigy P3, Aux Tank
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07-03-2019, 11:44 PM #19
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07-08-2019, 09:57 AM #20
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Morryde Safe-T-rail install issues
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