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  1. #11
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    An illegible scrawl at the moment. I'll translate it some rainy day... or when something frys

    Most of my 12V circuits are around 1A, all LED lights! Fans are a couple of amps, fridge hardly registers. I think the radio on as loud as I could stand got up to 5-8A. (not looking at the list, it's buried)
    120V side is mostly the fridge, water heater and charger. Didn't measure the AC draw but should have as I've yet to buy a generator.
    Rick

    2019 Reflection 150 273MK
    2015 Ford F350 CC SB Lariat Powerstroke
    PullRite Superglide

  2. #12
    Fireside Member CoyoteHauler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RickLight View Post
    An illegible scrawl at the moment. I'll translate it some rainy day... or when something frys

    Most of my 12V circuits are around 1A, all LED lights! Fans are a couple of amps, fridge hardly registers. I think the radio on as loud as I could stand got up to 5-8A. (not looking at the list, it's buried)
    120V side is mostly the fridge, water heater and charger. Didn't measure the AC draw but should have as I've yet to buy a generator.
    Thanks, Rick. All the info we can get is used sometime or other.
    Dennis

  3. #13
    Setting Up Camp KheSahn068's Avatar
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    Had a problem of having a dead battery after in storage for several weeks. Added a quick disconnect to the battery itself and now when I disconnect, I throw both the one in the storage area and the one on the battery. Problem solved and now I can go several months without a dead battery when in storage

  4. #14
    Fireside Member Paul Adams's Avatar
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    I have a 2016 Reflection 337RLS and have left it parked since last summer with the disconnect switch open and my battery is still at 12.2 volts after 10 months, although I did run my generator for an hour twice during that period. So in my unit there is no significant battery draw when the switch is open. I know many have asked, but Grand Design won't provide wiring or schematic diagrams, perhaps it depends on who is doing the assembly.

  5. #15
    Big Traveler Keebler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KheSahn068 View Post
    Had a problem of having a dead battery after in storage for several weeks. Added a quick disconnect to the battery itself and now when I disconnect, I throw both the one in the storage area and the one on the battery. Problem solved and now I can go several months without a dead battery when in storage
    One of the best mods I've done. I don't ever touch the factory installed. I mounted mine right on the battery box. Very clean, simple, and inexpensive. Prior to this, two weeks in storage and I didn't have the juice to adjust the landing gear when hitching. Not fun to deal with when you are getting ready to head out.

    Now the last thing I do when I unhitch and park in storage is cut the power...to everything.

    I have heard people express the concern that you need to be sure to turn it back on or else your emergency cable release brakes won't activate with it off. Good news is that there is NO WAY you can forget to turn it on because you can't raise your landing gear.

    This mod is a must have for anyone that stores their unit with no access to electrical. Well, except for lucky ones like Paul above that are not seeing a drain. I will say, go to hitch up and find a dead battery one time and you will understand the need.
    Last edited by Keebler; 07-18-2019 at 12:01 PM.
    2017 Ford F350 Platinum 6.7L PowerStroke DRW
    2017 Solitude 379FLS

  6. #16
    Setting Up Camp
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    Landing gear and battery

    Quote Originally Posted by Keebler View Post
    One of the best mods I've done. I don't ever touch the factory installed. I mounted mine right on the battery box. Very clean, simple, and inexpensive. Prior to this, two weeks in storage and I didn't have the juice to adjust the landing gear when hitching. Not fun to deal with when you are getting ready to head out.

    Now the last thing I do when I unhitch and park in storage is cut the power...to everything.

    I have heard people express the concern that you need to be sure to turn it back on or else your emergency cable release brakes won't activate with it off. Good news is that there is NO WAY you can forget to turn it on because you can't raise your landing gear.

    This mod is a must have for anyone that stores their unit with no access to electrical. Well, except for lucky ones like Paul above that are not seeing a drain. I will say, go to hitch up and find a dead battery one time and you will understand the need.


    You can operate the landing gear without a battery on most trailers, hydraulic gears need battery. Just plug in your truck pigtail and the landing gears should operate. I picked campers up at the manufacturer and took to the delivery company yard, as stated we only needed battery for hydraulic landing gear.

  7. #17
    Seasoned Camper reeldirtydawg's Avatar
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    One of the best mods I've done. I don't ever touch the factory installed. I mounted mine right on the battery box. Very clean, simple, and inexpensive. Prior to this, two weeks in storage and I didn't have the juice to adjust the landing gear when hitching. Not fun to deal with when you are getting ready to head out.
    What battery quick disconnect did you install?
    Brian-USMC Retired
    2019 Reflection 297RSTS
    2019 RAM 3500 Laramie MegaCab-4x4 DRW-AISIN
    Propride 3P Hitch
    Spokane, WA

  8. #18
    Setting Up Camp BuddyLovesCamping's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoyoteHauler View Post
    Reference: 2019 Reflection 303RLS
    Is there anywhere in Grand Design support material that actually identifies what the Battery Disconnect Switch in the pass-through actually controls? With the switch off, the sensing lights are still on, which means they are most likely pulling amps from battery. Proof was after first use and storage for two weeks, the battery was dead even though the switch was off and hanging by the tether. I looked through the manual and it says to turn that off and disconnect the battery cable when in storage. Sounds easy enough, but after traveling for 8 to 9 hours and tucking the 5er in its stall at storage facility, I really didn't want to mess with tools to remove the cable.
    Remedy, for me, I installed a true Battery Disconnect switch on the positive side of battery. Now, it is a simple task of opening the front panel and turning the switch and the power is fully cut off to the 5er's buss bar.
    I tried to add a picture, but that didn't work out. Strange procedure! Maybe as I get use to this site.
    Ok folks, I got my hands dirty and kneecaps sore from leaning into the battery compartment a bazillion times, but I've traced all but one of the wires that bypass the battery disconnect in my 2018 Solitude 344GK-R. For those wondering where this group originates, follow the fat red wire(s) from the battery (+) terminal. There should be two of them if you have the Residential Fridge units with an inverter. Here's what I found, with approximate wire gauge:

    #4 Red from Batt to 100A breaker for inverter (-R models only, or mostly)
    #6 Red from Batt to unswitched +12V bus bar
    #6 Red from bus bar to existing Disconnect Switch (the other side of the switch goes to the Converter)
    #6 Red from bus bar to jack pump motor
    #8 Red/White striped from bus bar to brakes (I think! This is the only one I haven't solidly confirmed)
    #10 Black from bus bar to trailer umbilical cord (+12V charging pin from tow vehicle)
    #12 Blue/White striped from bus bar to hitch lights
    #14 Red from bus bar to auto-leveling jack controller

    Of these, barring any dead shorts or other malfunctions, the only ones that could possibly drain the battery with the disconnect switch "off" are:
    1) Inverter
    2) Hitch Lights
    3) Jack Controller

    Everything else is powered through the Converter, and therefore can be switched off by the existing switch.
    I'm planning to add a larger inverter (probably a Victron) with a second switch specifically for that unit. That obviously takes care of 1) above, and I may reroute 2) and 3) through the same switch just to ensure that I can disconnect all possible parasitic loads. I bought a 4-position Blue Sea switch ( #9001e ) so I can switch off the inverter only, the parasitic loads only, or both. There's no need to reroute the remaining items on the bus bar since they don't (or shouldn't) be drawing any parasitic current whatsoever.

    Can anyone else confirm whether the #8 Red/White wire is indeed the brake controller? I can't imagine what else it could be (and btw, where the heck is that controller located anyway?).
    Ken, Suzi & Buddy (Sporgi - Spaniel/Corgi)
    Dallas, OR
    2018 Grand Design Solitude 344GK-R
    2012 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.7L, CC, LB, DRW, 4x4


  9. #19
    Fireside Member Paul Adams's Avatar
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    Thanks for sharing this useful information. As I said earlier, I don't have a problem with battery draw when the switch is open. My Reflection didn't come with an inverter so perhaps that's the culprit.

  10. #20
    Big Traveler Keebler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by reeldirtydawg View Post
    What battery quick disconnect did you install?
    I put in this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Mounted it directly to the battery box; works great.
    2017 Ford F350 Platinum 6.7L PowerStroke DRW
    2017 Solitude 379FLS

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